Wine with Leslie: Gold Star selections from your local wine merchants

"The National Off-Licence Association (NOffLA) represents the independent wine retailers around the country and their annual Gold Star Awards have just been announced."
Wine with Leslie: Gold Star selections from your local wine merchants

Pic: iStock

This week I want to write in praise of the local. 

The supermarkets have made it too easy for us, and given our busy lives it is just too convenient to fill up the trolley in one supermarket visit. But if we do this we are missing out on so much, and our lives are poorer.

It is rare to build up a relationship with a supermarket employee like you would with your local wine merchant, butcher, or greengrocer. And supermarkets are not necessarily cheaper. 

Your local butcher will know your preferences and has an incentive to make sure you get good quality meat, but crucially will also stock cheaper and more unusual cuts that no supermarket can sell; have you ever seen bavette or lamb belly in a supermarket?

Similarly, your local wine merchant can stock unusual (and often less expensive) wines made from unfamiliar grapes, from obscure wine regions in say Italy, Portugal, or Greece. They can do this because they know their customers trust them to stock wine they stand over. 

Your local wine merchant will quickly learn your tastes and be able to surprise you with new wines to try that you might not have considered.

The National Off-Licence Association (NOffLA) represents the independent wine retailers around the country and their annual Gold Star Awards have just been announced. By winning a medal at these awards the independents can collectively improve their buying power substantially. 

All the wines submitted for awards are exclusive to the independent sector and are a pleasingly diverse range.

My selections this week are from the Gold Medal winners and I will highlight one or two more in the coming weeks. 

The awards were only announced so not all these wines may be in shops just yet as some are fairly new to the sector such as ‘White Wine of the Year’ Gabel Dry Riesling from the Pfalz and Portia Ribera del Duero which won Red Wine of the Year and ‘Wine of the Year’.

Over 600 wines were submitted and tasted blind, and as I was on the judging panel, I stand over all the winners.

Wines Under €15

Hans Baer Trocken Riesling 2022, Rheinhessen, Germany - €11.99
Hans Baer Trocken Riesling 2022, Rheinhessen, Germany - €11.99

Hans Baer Trocken Riesling 2022, Rheinhessen, Germany - €11.99

Stockists: NOffLA Independent Off Licences; McHughs; Matsons; No. 21; World Wide Wines; JJ O’Driscolls; Vintry; Martins; WineOnline.ie.

Germany is the home of Riesling and it is not an easy grape to grow thanks to its long ripening season. This is bone dry (‘trocken’) and should help convert you — apple and citrus aromas, tangy and dry with softer apple and tropical fruit touches on the finish. The full Baer range is worth exploring.

Santa Rita Estate Reserve Sémillon 2017, Colchagua Valley, Chile - €11.99
Santa Rita Estate Reserve Sémillon 2017, Colchagua Valley, Chile - €11.99

Santa Rita Estate Reserve Sémillon 2017, Colchagua Valley, Chile - €11.99

Stockists: NOffLA Independent Off Licences; McHughs; Matsons; No. 21; World Wide Wines; JJ O’Driscolls; Vintry; Martins; WineOnline.ie.

This was a surprise, I would not have expected a six-year-old Chilean Sémillon would have held up so well but this is excellent. Soft pear and baked lemon aromas with a touch of floral. Textured and creamy on the palate with a zing of lemon zest on the finish.

Rioja Vega Semi-Crianza 2022, Spain - €11.99
Rioja Vega Semi-Crianza 2022, Spain - €11.99

Rioja Vega Semi-Crianza 2022, Spain - €11.99

Stockists: NOffLA Independent Off Licences; McHughs; Matsons; No. 21; World Wide Wines; JJ O’Driscolls; Vintry; Martins; WineOnline.ie.

I’ve recommended the Rioja Vega Crianza (€15) before but not this inexpensive semi-crianza, which is younger and brighter with just a few months oak age. Juicy, ripe and textured with some red fruits hitting the palate first but darker fruits dominating the mid-palate and finish with some spice notes coming through. Delicious and great value.

Wines Over €15

Portia Crianza Tempranillo 2019, Ribera del Duero, Spain - €19.99
Portia Crianza Tempranillo 2019, Ribera del Duero, Spain - €19.99

Portia Crianza Tempranillo 2019, Ribera del Duero, Spain - €19.99

Stockists: NOffLA Independent Off Licences; McHughs; Matsons; No. 21; World Wide Wines; JJ O’Driscolls; Vintry; Martins; WineOnline.ie.

I haven’t seen Portia for a good while so I’m pleased to see it make a comeback by winning Red Wine of the Year. This may not be available for a week or two so be patient. Ripe dark fruit aromas that follow onto the palate, gorgeous textures and weight, complex, layered and vibrant.

Kono Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand - €18.99
Kono Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand - €18.99

Kono Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand - €18.99

Stockists: NOffLA Independent Off Licences; McHughs; Matsons; No. 21; World Wide Wines; JJ O’Driscolls; Vintry; Martins; WineOnline.ie.

If you are struggling to forgive New Zealand for breaking our hearts last weekend this might help. A step up from and a contrast to all those grassy and rather overblown New Zealand Sauvignons, this has passionfruit and tropical aromas, brisk and crisp on the palate with herbal touches and balance.

Piper Heidsieck Champagne NV - France - €59.99
Piper Heidsieck Champagne NV - France - €59.99

Piper Heidsieck Champagne NV - France - €59.99

Stockists: NOffLA Independent Off Licences; O’Donovans; McHughs; Matsons; No. 21; World Wide Wines; JJ O’Driscolls; Vintry; Martins; WineOnline.ie.

Piper Heidsieck has had a noticeable jump in quality in the last decade and has won the Champagne Gold Star Award before. I tasted it again over the weekend and I can see why. Lemon zest and baked croissant aromas, softly textured and rich on the palate with almonds and citrus on the finish.

Beer of the Week

Whiplash Fruit Salad Days Blackberry & Raspberry Sour, 4% ABV, 440ml - €5.95
Whiplash Fruit Salad Days Blackberry & Raspberry Sour, 4% ABV, 440ml - €5.95

Whiplash Fruit Salad Days Blackberry & Raspberry Sour, 4% ABV, 440ml - €5.95

Stockists: Bradleys; DrinkStore.ie; CraftCentral.ie

Kettle-soured Berliner Weisse beer with added blackberry and raspberry fruits - “for end of summer vibes!” according to Whiplash. A ‘kettle sour’ is created by adding lactobacillus directly into the kettle to sour the wort prior to fermentation and hopping etc. and combined with fruit flavours can make a deliciously refreshing beer.

The hop used is Bramling Cross, an American-style aroma hop that works well with fruit beers. This pours a cloudy dark raspberry colour with distinctly fruity aromas, especially raspberry. Fruity, crisp and bone dry on the palate with lingering bitter raspberry flavours. I drank this with some nutty rich Coolattin cheddar while sitting in the garden and it worked surprisingly well.

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