Wine with Leslie: Six organic and sustainable wines that match the autumnal weather

These wines are perfect for autumn

The noticeable autumnal nip in the air in recent weeks means I am changing my drinking habits a little to match the weather. I won’t be making it to Oktoberfest in Munich but with that festival in mind I have a Kinnegar märzen beer selected that should be perfect for dishes such as baked pumpkin or squash soup.

I am instead off to Austria for a week where I plan to drink plenty of Austrian beer, as well as Grüner-Veltliner, Riesling, Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt. Predictably there is an Austrian wine column coming soon.

My theme this week is loosely around organic and sustainable wines, prompted by a new wine importer on the scene — Carrington Wines. Harshal Shah is the man behind it, he worked for many years with Pembroke Wines where he developed an eclectic and brilliant list.

Now his focus is “on building my portfolio with very high quality estates run by winemakers who are regarded as current or future superstars,” he told me. Environmental sustainability will be key, with organic and biodynamic wines where possible. Harshal is knowledgeable and engaging, and his pride in his producers shines through.

Among the names on his list is Nicholas Joly from the Loire. Joly is a legendary figure and was one of the first to adopt biodynamic viticulture. His Savennières Coulée de Serrant is a rare monopole vineyard (where all the wines from the AOP are made by the same producer).

Carrington has some gems from California, Austria, and Spain, with Burgundy and Bordeaux well represented. Bordeaux En Primeur is also a focus, the best way to buy fine Bordeaux. Wines recommended today are all sustainable and organic (or as good as — not everyone believes in certification).

For the Diary: Fri October 13: Moët & Chandon wine matching dinner in Rare in Kinsale with Sommelier Julie Dupuoy introducing wines to match Meeran Manzoor’s menu. The Blue Haven Hotel will have a special B&B rate from €208 B&B. rare1784.ie

Wines Under €16

Postcards Pinot Grigio Rosé della Venezie, Veneto, Italy - €11.96

Stockist: O’Briens

From the organically farmed Musella estate in the Veneto, I’ve often mentioned their Amarone. Once winter sets our desire for rosé is likely to wane so enjoy this bargain while you can. Reduced from €16 with a pale pink hue, aromas of cranberry and pomegranate and some floral notes. Textured and fruity with orange peel freshness to balance out the ripeness.

Oníric Blanc, Penedés, Spain - €15.20-15.90

Stockists: MacCurtain St. Wine Cellar; Quay Co-Op; Mannings Ballylickey; Little Green Grocer; Urru; Organico.

From the Xarel-lo grape, my favourite grape in this part of Spain. I have recommended this producers Pet-Nat in the past (including in cans) and their skin contact Brisat which is tangy and layered. This is a little crisper with lots of white peach and soft pear fruits, textured and lively with lingering pear flavours.

Albet i Noya Icones 2022, Penedès, Spain - €15.20-15.99

Stockists: Organico; Quay Co-Op; Mannings; Fields; Little Greengrocer; JJ O’Driscolls; Mortons Galway; MaryPawlewines.com

A new vintage and a new label for this, previously called Petit Albert. I love this organic producer, now in their 5th generation as winemakers. This pours a light garnet red colour with aromas of spice tinged cherries — supple and juicy with more crunchy red fruits on the palate. Excellent value.

Wines Over €16

Domaine de la Foliette Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Loire - €20-€21

Stockist: MacCurtain Wine Cellar; SC Grocer; Cashel Wine Cellar.

Muscadet is having a major revival as you probably know by now. The best producers like this one have reduced yields and use rigorous selection. Dried lime and oyster shell aromas with a touch of ozone and brine, pure, lively and crisp on the palate with admirable roundness and texture, pristine and clean. Try with oysters, fish or light pasta.

Alzinger Riesling Dürnstein Federspiel, Wachau, Austria - €33

Stockist: MacCurtain Wine Cellar, Independents.

Grapes selected from a few vineyards on choice sites in the Wachau west of Vienna — some of the most beautiful vineyard landscape in the world. Nutty, slightly salty, citrus and apple aromas, textured and zingy on the palate with pleasing ripeness balanced by classic Riesling acidity and freshness and some crisp apple and spice tinges (ginger?) linger on the finish.

Nicholas Joly ‘Les Vieux Clos’ Savennières, Loire - €59

Stockist: Whelehans; 64 Wines; MacCurtain Wine Cellar

Nicholas Joly was an early adopter of biodynamic and natural wines and is something of a legend. Joly’s ‘Savennières-Coulée-de-Serrant’ (monopole) bursts with soft pear but with some steely chalky acidity for balance (€119 MacCurtain). His Les Vieux Clos Savennières meanwhile has floral, ripe melon and bruised apple aromas with ripe round fruits and stony taut freshness.

Beer of the Week

Kinnegar ‘Leaf Kicker’ Märzen Lager, 5.9% ABV, 440ml - €3.70

Stockists: Matsons; Bradleys; Castle; Worldwide Wines; Baggot St. Wines; CraftCentral.ie; McHughs.ie

Märzen was originally a style of Bavarian beer brewed in March due to a historic prohibition on brewing in the summer months, thus it was usually stronger to help keep it fresh. Märzen is frequently served at Oktoberfest and that is Kinnegar’s inspiration as this is a seasonal beer.

This pours a light gold with ripe banana and bruised pear aromas, fruity and textured on the palate, banana bread flavours mingle with herbal notes and the finish is crisp and refreshing thanks to a good dollop of noble hops. This is an excellent autumn beer, substantial and very tasty.