Wine with Leslie: The quest for the perfect wine glass - and the best of Austrian wine
Pic: Stock
As may be evident from this column I have a rather obsessional nature and like to deep dive into any subject that interests me.
I have long been on a quest for the perfect wine glass but a recent tasting held by Maximillian Riedel of the famed Austrian glass producer reminded me that such a quest is likely folly.
Maximilian was in town to promote the Riedel Veloce series which was launched last year and once again he confounded a large room by showing us the difference a varietal wine glasses can make.
We tried the Veloce Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon and Cabernet glasses and it was fascinating to see how good a Chardonnay can taste from a Chardonnay glass compared to say a Riedel Sauvignon Blanc Glass where it tasted noticeably tighter and more acidic.
The same Chardonnay was noticeably less successful in the Pinot Noir glass which sounds logical, but try telling that to most restaurants who simply have a ‘Burgundy’ glass for serving both grapes.
The Pinot Noir in the correct glass was open, floral and ripe but seemed more closed and alcoholic in the Cabernet glass while the Cabernet tasted in the Pinot glass seemed greener and noticeably less generous.
Riedel sells around 60 million glasses annually (compared to Zalto which I also rate which sells under a million annually) and grew by a stunning 40% last year.
The Veloce range is currently on offer at €49.95 for two (down from €60) but if this sounds too steep don't forget the excellent Riedel 'O' tumbler range - the Nebbiolo/Pinot O is a thing of understated beauty.
Riedel can be ordered online via mitchellandson.com or visit Mitchell & Son in CHQ Docklands and Sandycove or Mitchells in Avoca Dunboyne and Kilmaconogue. Cass and Co. in Dungarvan is another option.
Wines this week are from Austria and include a couple of bargains mixed in with some must-try classics.
The three more expensive wines were tasted at an Austrian masterclass given by Michael Moosbrugger of Schloss Gobelsburg which showed the diversity of Austrian wine (much more than Grüner Veltliner and Riesling), and explained the new DAC quality regulations.
I’ve included two of his impressive wines. I’ll return to Austrian reds another time.
This is reduced from €19 and thus a total bargain. From a family-run estate in Kamptal to the northwest of Vienna along the Kamp river (a tributary of the Danube). Classic white pepper and lime aromas, taut and very dry on the palate with a pleasing citrus freshness and lingering green fruit acidity.
From the iconic Wachau, perhaps GV’s spiritual home. This is clean and precise with pepper and ripe apple aromas, tart apple freshness with some tropical notes on the mid-palate and a dry saline finish. JJ O’Driscolls stock their premium Federspiel GV, also recommended.
From warm slopes in Lower Austria (Niederösterreich), 60km west of Vienna - reduced from €18. Pouring a pale red somewhere between brick and ruby with red fruit aromas tinged with forest floor earthiness. Bright and fruity with more depth on the palate than the colour implies, stewed dark fruits and smoky bacon on the finish. Also, watch for Huber Rosé.
This estate dates back to 1171 and is considered one of Austria’s best producers. This has floral, tropical aromas mixed with dried lime and pepper - textured and ripe on the palate with stone fruits tinged with lemon zest and a dry tangy finish. Try with Asian noodle dishes or shellfish.
Pinot Blanc is rarely treated this seriously and this wine should change the mind of anyone that doubts its seriousness. This has distinct tropical aromas mixed with floral notes - rounded and supple on the palate with lush pear and melon fruits but with structure, spice, herbal freshness.
From the impressive steep terraces around the village of Zöbing in Kamptal. Dried apple, honey and lime aromas with a touch of phenol, the palate sparkles with taut green apple fruits with touches of mango and pineapple intermingled. Rounded and complex with balancing lemony acidity.
BKultured is fresh to the market and made by Niamh Hegarty (of Niamh’s Larder’) on the family farm in Ballycroneen, East Cork.
I can’t abide most zero-alcohol beers so instead I’m recommending this gut-friendly kefir, its by far the more sophisticated choice.
BKultured flavours include a refreshing ‘Jammin’ Turmeric & Ginger and this ‘Sassy Mixed Berry’ (a Hibiscus is on the way).
Pouring a pleasing salmon pink with aromas of raspberry and strawberry with a sourdough citrus background.
Soft raspberry fruits hit the palate first followed by fermented yeasty tartness and a tangy refreshing finish. Warmly recommended.
