The Menu: Food on the Edge looks at the future - and the world's best cuisine

Plus: Street eats, home BBQ kits and lunch at Castlemartyr
Elena Reygadas — recently named World’s Best Female Chef by the World’s Top Best Restaurant 2023 Awards

Elena Reygadas — recently named World’s Best Female Chef by the World’s Top Best Restaurant 2023 Awards

Early bird gets the ticket

Back again for its eighth year, the Food On The Edge symposium returns this October to Airfield Estate, in Dundrum, Dublin, a superb base for such an endeavour, which sees international and national chefs and other figures from the food world gather to parse the future of food (both in hospitality and in the wider globe) with this year’s theme being storytelling. 

The headline speaker will be Elena Reygadas — recently named World’s Best Female Chef by the World’s Top Best Restaurant 2023 Awards — and also returning is Andoni Luis Aduriz, of the legendary Mugaritz, in Spain, who was given the accolade of Icon Award 2023 at the same awards. 

The reason The Menu is making such early mention of Food On The Edge, is that reduced rate early bird tickets are on sale now (€275, including two-day access to all speaker talks, lunches, evening entertainment and a ticket to the wrap party) until July 16.

Summer at Terre

Michelin-starred Terre, in the very splendid Manor House at Castlemartyr Resort, East Cork, sees chef patron Vincent Crepel now offering lunch dining for the summer, with two sittings, 1pm and 2pm, on Fridays and Saturdays, in its very gorgeous dining space, for tables of one to four people, as well as private dining options for up to eight. 

Lunch is €110 per person without wine or tea-pairing and places are limited so reservations are essential.

Collective spirit of Terra Ignis

Terra Ignis, one of The Menu’s favourite family food production outfits is returning with another of its fine and funky fermentation collectives, this one a demonstration and discussion about fermented foodstuffs, two in particular, for intimate groups of six in L’Atitude 51 on Union Quay.

All attendees will leave with the skills and ingredients to craft one of the ferments, which they will share with the rest of the group and a light supper of fermented dishes will be shared. Fermentation collectives can also be booked privately for groups of six or more.

  • Instagram: @terra_ignis
  • €75pp, to book, email terraignisireland@gmail.com

Harley StrEAT
Harley StrEAT

Harley’s StrEAT rides again

The Menu welcomes back Harley’s StrEAT, the al fresco dining offering assembled by The Metropole, on Harley St, which runs alongside the venerable old Cork hotel, from the very happening MacCurtain St down to Patrick’s Quay, and the Mary Elmes pedestrian bridge across the river to Merchant’s Quay.

While The Menu is distraught to learn that Brian Murray of The Glass Curtain won’t be returning to join the same location with his lockdown-inspired live fire offering, Birdsong in the City, which proved to be one of the finest street food offerings to hit the city in years (not least when capped with a splendid Bushby’s raspberry ice cream sandwich) new executive head chef of Trigon Hotels, recently moved from Liss Ard House, in West Cork, is overseeing a variety of menu options including their take on Mexican, Middle Eastern, Thai, and American cuisines, made from locally sourced produce, all served up along with coffees and cocktails.

Open on Fridays to Sunday, 1pm-7pm, and on bank holiday Mondays, 1pm-5pm.

Mastering food knowledge

Food writer and food historian Regina Sexton continues to drive food education on Leeside and has just shared the news that University College Cork has launched a new masters in food studies and Irish foodways to operate alongside the current food studies and Irish foodways postgraduate diploma. 

The course is designed to greatly enhance knowledge and understanding of the Irish food world in a manner that is genuinely holistic, offering a wide variety of employment options once the masters is completed.

Fallon & Byrne is now offering BBQ dine-at-home kits
Fallon & Byrne is now offering BBQ dine-at-home kits

TODAY’S SPECIAL

The Fallon & Byrne food emporium is taking a retro leaf out of the lockdown playbook and opting for one of the more successful dine-at-home tropes, the BBQ delivery kit, offering a choice of three: Middle Eastern, Italian, and American-themed BBQ options.

Though the recent heatwave has been added to with regular “spritzing” from sudden and tumultuous cloudbursts, it has not for a minute stopped The Menu firing up the charcoal, albeit in far more sheltered leeward spot just outside the kitchen door, where he gave the American-themed option a trial run.

Stocked with four of Fallon & Byrne’s in-house-made Wagyu beef burgers, burger buns, Entremont sliced Emmental, baby gem lettuce, handmade free-range hot dogs and hot dog rolls, along with Fallon & Byrne potato salad and coleslaw. (The ‘Ultimate’ All-American BBQ comes with additional French’s famous crispy onions, Kuhne gherkins and homemade cornbread.)

Fans of the “traditional” American hot dog, made with all parts of the creature, including the recycled leather from the sofa, will be quite possibly challenged by these hefty handmade sausages with their unmistakeable farmyard honk and, truth be told, The Menu dispensed with the other accoutrements and ate them with a good relish and a simple salad and found them to be pretty decent.

The real stars, however, were the Waygu burgers, which developed a crisp, carmelised crust on the exterior, glistening with fatty, meaty juices of the tender pink mince within.

He and No 2 Son, toasted the accompanying sesame bun, applied some of their own secret burger sauce and topped it with the Emmental, pickles, coleslaw, and lettuce for just about the most extraordinary barbecued burger experience so far this year in a summer where the hardworking Menu has near flipped more burgers on the grill than he did back in his teenage heyday in the iconic and long-since-closed Mandy’s burger joint on St Patrick’s Street, in Cork.

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