Wine with Leslie: Italian wine is the perfect cure for late January blues

Italy is the perfect cure for late January blues, in my opinion

On the day this column appears I will be in Venice, hopefully sipping an early lunchtime glass of Nebbiolo or Etna Rosso with some cicchetti around the time you read this.

Cicchetti are the Venetian version of tapas and can be anything from a meatball on a toothpick to some small sea creature on a crostini, to an octopus tentacle coiled around a stick of cucumber, or maybe just some lardo on a slice of baguette. Cicchetti are generally eaten standing up in a bar or from a deli counter, and of course are accompanied by a glass of red, rosé, or white — my mouth is salivating already.

Venice being in the Veneto, a glass of Bardolino or Chiaretto (rosé) is more likely than Nebbiolo or Brunello, but Venice has always been a welcoming place, so finding good wines from Tuscany or Piedmont won’t be difficult.

I am also looking forward to sarde in saor, the classic sweet-sour Venetian dish of sardines or oily fish served with onions and raisins in a sweet vinegar — it works so much better than you might think.

It is too early for risi e bisi (pea risotto) which needs fresh peas and is a highlight of April, but I will satisfy myself with seafood risotto, fresh bigoli pasta with a meat sauce, or maybe some frito-misto (fried seafood) eaten from a fold of paper.

Some of these dishes sound like they will work best with white wine but don’t forget that most Italian reds have bristling acidity so a cool glass of red will work just as well. The whites of the Veneto, from Soave to Lugana, are perfect for cutting through the fat of fried fish or rich pasta but a cool glass of Barbera or Valpolicella can also work wonders.

Italy is the perfect cure for late January blues, in my opinion, and if you can’t make it to the country itself then don’t despair as there has never been such an abundance of Italian wine available for us to try.

Every year I discover some new Italian grape varieties and appellations. Here are some good value wines for you to try while you celebrate the end of the darkest month.

Wines Under €15

Passori Rosso Veneto IGT, Italy - €10.99
Stockists: Spar; EuroSpar; Mace

A blend of the classic Valpolicella and Amarone grape 'Corvina' with some Merlot, probably the international grape most commonly found in the Veneto. This is made from late harvest grapes, dried for a time on the vine. Soft, juicy, and ripe with luscious red fruits, pleasing weight and texture, and a smoky note on the finish - a winter warmer.

Antinori Santa Cristina Toscana IGT, Italy - €12.71

Stockist: O’Briens stores nationwide - www.obrienswine.ie

Reduced from €17 and is a total bargain at this price. A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and other grapes grown on a hillside vineyard in Cortona, between Siena and Perugia. Bright and fruity with pleasing cherry and floral aromas, darker fruits on the palate and balancing acidity and structure. For Pizza or a slow cooked pasta ragù.

Maree D’Ione Nero di Troia Organic, Puglia, Italy - €14.95-15.95

Stockists: 1601; Matsons; Vintry; Worldwide Wines; Independent Off-Licences

Nero di Troia is a grape found mainly in northern Puglia, but not one we see on labels all that often. Once neglected, it has had a bit of a revival and makes deep coloured, structured but tasty wines. This is a ripe plum and cherry flavoured example with some spice (oaky) notes and rounded dark fruits.

Wines Over €15

‘Prugneto’, Poderi del Nespoli, Romagna 2020, Italy - €16.95

Stockists: Bradleys; Rineys Sneem; CarryOut Tramore; Mortons Galway; Wine Vault; Redmonds; Blackrock Cellar; La Touche Greystones.

Sangiovese from the Bidente valley in Romagna between the Apennines and the Adriatic (around 2 hours east of Florence). Bright, cheery, cherry fruits, lively and juicy, with strawberry, raspberry and a touch of bitter cherry on the mid-palate, and a cherry-skin crunch on the finish. Perfect January fare.

weekend wine Il Passo Nerello-Nero d'Avola 22/2

Vigneti Zabù ‘Il Passo’ Nerello Mascalese 2021, Sicily - €19.95

Stockists: Worldwide Wines; O’Briens; 64 Wines; TheAllotment.ie; JusdeVine; Donnybrook Fair; Independents

I last mentioned this wine in 2015 so it deserves a mention again. Nerello Mascalese is more commonly found around Etna and a little pricey - this SW Sicily version blended with Nero d'Avola shows off the more floral, juicy side of the grape. Violet scented with ripe blackberries, luscious but elegant.

Produttori del Barberesco Langhe Nebbiolo 2020 - €31.99-32.99

Stockists: MacCurtin St. Wine Cellar; 64 Wines; Corkscrew; Mitchells; Baggot St Wines; Independent

The Co-Op in Barbaresco has been called the best in the world, and it is hard to disagree. Their standard Barbaresco is a benchmark and this Nebbiolo Langhe has gorgeous depth mixed with freshness - bright and ripe, packed with dried red fruits, and with tannins and acidity in harmony. Treat yourself.

Beer of the Week

White Hag Phantom Hazy IPA, 4% ABV, 330ml - €2.50 (4 for €10)

Stockists: Bradleys; Redmonds; Sweeneys; Drinkstore; Selected Supermarkets; www.craftcentral.ie; www.craftbeersdelivered.ie

Part of White Hag’s excellent ‘Take Your Pick’ range available as 4 330ml Cans for €10. The range includes nearly a dozen beers and among my favourites are ‘Little Fawn’ Session Ale, ‘Ninth Wave’ New World Pale Ale and ‘Gola Secca’ Italian Dry Stout.

Phantom Hazy IPA is a sessionable ale with lots of big fruity flavours perfect for ushering in Spring on St. Brigid’s Day (patron saint of brewers). Named for Mórrígan who created fog to hide the Tuatha dé Danann. Tropical and citrus fruits with a dose of pine - fruity and lively with bitter hops and lingering bitter lemon.