Wine with Leslie: Sauvignon blanc still surprises
A couple of weeks ago I was tasting 12 different vintages of a New Zealand sauvignon blanc, and loving almost all.

You might recall my praise of the 2017 vintage, well the 2018 is now on shelves at a very low price, and I think it’s even better. From old vine Syrah, Grenache & Mourvèdre this has generous soft berry fruits, a savoury herb-tinged elegance with clove and pepper accents, and a delightful silky sensuousness — I’ll be buying a case.

Apologies that this is over the €15 threshold but trust me it is worth it the extra 60 cent. This is a classical Rioja with plush ripe fruits and lots of cedar and vanilla accents from oak contact. Weighty and concentrated with blackberry and blackcurrant flavours that are perfect now but will develop and soften for years to come.

This has to be the best value Ribera del Duero in the country and yet has ripe enough fruit to allow it to happily age — perhaps up to its 10th birthday. Ripe dark fruit aromas with spice and vanilla touches, blueberries and blackberries, dark plums and pomegranate, with pleasing weight and substance and all for a very low price.

This is not Marlborough Sauvignon as you know it but something more profound thanks to its long wild ferment. Fragrant and floral with lively pear and melon fruit, supple and rounded with sparks of flint and smoke, and a steely dried apple finish. Buy extra bottles to age.

Now be warned, this has some residual sugar like many of the great Rieslings of the world, but it also has balancing acidity. Flint and smoke notes mingle with lime and tropical fruits — creamy and lusciously fruity with sweet key-limes and a stony tautness on the finish. Good until 2040, but try now with a cheese plate.

This Cru Bourgeois from a reliable vintage is reduced from €22 and even at that higher price would represent decent value. Made from 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot this has cedar and blackcurrant fruits, a ripe, savoury palate with crunchy dark cherries and pleasing depth and richness. This is serious stuff and will age until 2028.

I always look forward to a new Dot Brew beer. Brewer Shane Kelly is a bit of a magician and his barrel-aged beers are some of the most fascinating drinks I’ve tasted — but I also love his more commercial collaborations with the likes of Redmonds, Blackrock Cellar and of course Cork’s own Michael Creedon of Bradleys North Main St (since 1850).
Aromas of Mandarin oranges and tropical fruits with a touch of pine. Fruity and balanced on the palate with pleasing weight and texture and a touch of orange split thanks to flaked and malted oats, while Simcoe and Amarillo hops add spikes of hoppy pleasure. Warmly recommended.
