Wine with Leslie: Sauvignon blanc still surprises

All the wines recommended today were chosen for ageing capability
Wine with Leslie: Sauvignon blanc still surprises

A couple of weeks ago I was tasting 12 different vintages of a New Zealand sauvignon blanc, and loving almost all.

Wine constantly surprises me. Take sauvignon blanc, which isn’t supposed to age all that well outside the best vineyards of Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre, and yet a couple of weeks ago I was tasting 12 different vintages of a New Zealand sauvignon blanc, and loving almost all.

The wine was Greywacke Wild Ferment and we tasted every vintage since the first in 2009. Winemaker Kevin Judd was the man who made Cloudy Bay famous and this new project was started after LVMH took over that iconic wine and they parted ways.

The name comes from the sedimentary river stones commonly found in his vineyards and is an apt metaphor for this wine. Greywacke stones are often smooth and rounded, take a long time to form, and have a steely firmness, not unlike Judd’s Sauvignon.

There was remarkable consistency amongst the 12 vintages except for the 2012, a cooler vintage with a little too much asparagus and bean flavours. The 2009 was still remarkably fresh with a beguiling milky lime and lanolin character and a textured rounded opulence with steel citrus finish.

The 2010 was a little less focused and linear but still pleasingly fruit-driven with apples to the fore. The 2013 had a lushness due to a riper vintage while the 2011 had more chalk and flint notes but was still a delight.

There was most of a bottle of 2014 left over after the tasting which I took home and enjoyed over the next few days, both on its own and with The Engineer’s Coolatin-Parmesan Macaroni Cheese. The wine was subtly different on each of the three days but it was always rather profound with a beguiling fragrance and notes of wood smoke and lime zest. More recent vintages all showed a similar balance of soft lime and firm steel but each had its own personality and will age like its predecessors.

All the wines recommended today were chosen for ageing capability. There are two from Greywacke, a bargain Médoc from Whelehan’s Wines, and three from Dunnes Stores who have the gorgeous Château Cazal Viel back in stock.

Wine Under €15


                        Château Cazal Viel ‘Vielle Vignes’ 2018
Château Cazal Viel ‘Vielle Vignes’ 2018

Château Cazal Viel ‘Vielle Vignes’ 2018, Saint-Chinian, Languedoc - €9.60

Stockist: Dunnes Stores

You might recall my praise of the 2017 vintage, well the 2018 is now on shelves at a very low price, and I think it’s even better. From old vine Syrah, Grenache & Mourvèdre this has generous soft berry fruits, a savoury herb-tinged elegance with clove and pepper accents, and a delightful silky sensuousness — I’ll be buying a case.

Ramón Bilbao Reserva Rioja 2015
Ramón Bilbao Reserva Rioja 2015

Ramón Bilbao Reserva Rioja 2015, Spain - €15.60

Stockist: Dunnes Stores

Apologies that this is over the €15 threshold but trust me it is worth it the extra 60 cent. This is a classical Rioja with plush ripe fruits and lots of cedar and vanilla accents from oak contact. Weighty and concentrated with blackberry and blackcurrant flavours that are perfect now but will develop and soften for years to come.


                        Teófilo Reyes, Ribera del Duero 2021
Teófilo Reyes, Ribera del Duero 2021

Teófilo Reyes, Ribera del Duero 2021, Spain - €10.40

Stockist: Dunnes Stores Nationwide

This has to be the best value Ribera del Duero in the country and yet has ripe enough fruit to allow it to happily age — perhaps up to its 10th birthday. Ripe dark fruit aromas with spice and vanilla touches, blueberries and blackberries, dark plums and pomegranate, with pleasing weight and substance and all for a very low price.

Wine Over €15

Greywacke Marlborough Wild Sauvignon 2020
Greywacke Marlborough Wild Sauvignon 2020

Greywacke Marlborough Wild Sauvignon 2020, New Zealand - €36.99

Stockists: Mannings Ballylickey; O’Briens; Mitchell & Son; Baggot St. Wines; Fallon & Byrne; Red Island Wine; TheCorkscrew.ie; Wineonline.ie

This is not Marlborough Sauvignon as you know it but something more profound thanks to its long wild ferment. Fragrant and floral with lively pear and melon fruit, supple and rounded with sparks of flint and smoke, and a steely dried apple finish. Buy extra bottles to age.


                        Greywacke Marlborough Riesling 2020
Greywacke Marlborough Riesling 2020

Greywacke Marlborough Riesling 2020, New Zealand - €28.99

Stockists: Mannings Ballylickey; Martins; Sweeneys D3; Wine Centre; TheCorkscrew.ie

Now be warned, this has some residual sugar like many of the great Rieslings of the world, but it also has balancing acidity. Flint and smoke notes mingle with lime and tropical fruits — creamy and lusciously fruity with sweet key-limes and a stony tautness on the finish. Good until 2040, but try now with a cheese plate.


                        Château La Pirouette Médoc 2016
Château La Pirouette Médoc 2016

Château La Pirouette Médoc 2016, Bordeaux, France - €19.00

Stockist: Whelehans Wines, www.whelehanswines.ie

This Cru Bourgeois from a reliable vintage is reduced from €22 and even at that higher price would represent decent value. Made from 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot this has cedar and blackcurrant fruits, a ripe, savoury palate with crunchy dark cherries and pleasing depth and richness. This is serious stuff and will age until 2028.

Beer of the Week

Bradleys & Dot Brew “Nice One IPA”
Bradleys & Dot Brew “Nice One IPA”

Bradleys & Dot Brew “Nice One IPA”, 6.0% ABV, 440ml - €3.50

Stockist: Bradleys Off-Licence Cork

I always look forward to a new Dot Brew beer. Brewer Shane Kelly is a bit of a magician and his barrel-aged beers are some of the most fascinating drinks I’ve tasted — but I also love his more commercial collaborations with the likes of Redmonds, Blackrock Cellar and of course Cork’s own Michael Creedon of Bradleys North Main St (since 1850).

Aromas of Mandarin oranges and tropical fruits with a touch of pine. Fruity and balanced on the palate with pleasing weight and texture and a touch of orange split thanks to flaked and malted oats, while Simcoe and Amarillo hops add spikes of hoppy pleasure. Warmly recommended.

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