Darina Allen: Summer foraging can save you money come winter

Sea spinach and rosemary soup

I’m sitting in my little garden in an enormous Adirondack chair sipping a glass of watermelon lemonade, the birds are twittering in the trees and the sun is beaming down – a lovely moment to be treasured.

But it sounds like there are tough times ahead of us this winter. The cost of everything seems to be skyrocketing, who knows what’s ahead, but it will certainly be challenging and as ever, those less fortunate will be most heavily impacted. Tough decisions to be made on how to allocate the weekly budget but whatever happens, let’s try to continue to feed ourselves and our families wholesome, nourishing food but that doesn’t need to be fancy or expensive.

I’ve written many times in this column about the importance of learning to be thrifty and mastering practical life skills. Already many of us are questioning virtually everything we do, not a bad idea, do we need to use the tumble dryer, how about putting up a washing line – I love hanging clothes out in the breeze and dashing out to bring them in before it rains – a blast from the past…

Question everything in your shopping trolley too and tot up how much you save. Learn to recognise foods from the wild, they are bursting with goodness, much more flavourful and more nutritious than virtually anything on the supermarket shelf because they haven’t been adapted to produce maximum yield at minimum cost. Buy a book on foraging or go for a ramble with a knowledgeable friend. 

If you are fortunate to be within a reasonable distance of upland areas or dry woodlands or scrubby mountains, how about collecting some wild bilberries? For years we got baskets of wild blueberries or fraughans at Ballymaloe from the Knockmealdown Mountains. Traditionally, the Celtic festival of Lughnasa on the last weekend in July was known as Frauchán Sunday.

These wild bilberries are really worth seeking out, the berries are smaller and tarter but truly delicious crushed with sugar then smothered with cream. If you have a glut – remember they freeze brilliantly.

Wild blueberries grow on scratchy low growing shrubs and boast nearly twice as many oxidants as their cultivated counterparts. So seek out some of these free foods and let’s build resilience for times ahead, it’s not too late to grow some of your own food for the Autumn and Winter. Even if you don’t have a garden or raised bed, you’d be surprised how much you can grow in large containers on your patio or balcony. Check out GIY Ireland for a myriad of terrific tips.

Wild watercress and sea spinach are easier to find and there will be damsons, sloes and wild hazelnuts in early autumn. There’s a fantastic crop of nuts this year but they won’t be ripe until late September so keep an eye out and bring children with you so they can have fun learning the skills of recognising food in the wild - Nature’s bounty to all of us.

Sea Spinach and Rosemary Soup

recipe by:Darina Allen

The trick with these green soups is not to add the greens until the last minute, otherwise they will overcook, and the soup will lose its fresh taste and bright green colour.

Servings

6

Preparation Time

 45 mins

Cooking Time

 5 mins

Total Time

 50 mins

Course

 Main

Ingredients

• 50g (2oz) butter

• 110g (4oz) onion, peeled and chopped

• 150g (5oz) potatoes, peeled and chopped

• 600ml (1 pint) homemade chicken stock, vegetable stock or water

• 425-600ml (15fl oz - 1 pint) creamy milk (1/4 cream and 3/4 milk)

• salt and freshly ground pepper

• 225-350g (8-12oz) sea spinach or sea beet, destalked and chopped

• 1 tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped

• To garnish:

• 2 tbsp whipped cream (optional)

• sprig of rosemary or rosemary flowers

Method

1. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. When it foams add the onions and potatoes and turn them until well coated. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover and sweat on a gentle heat for 10 minutes.

2. Add the boiling stock and milk, bring back to the boil and simmer until the potatoes and onions are fully cooked. Add the sea spinach and boil with the lid off for about 4-5 minutes, until the sea spinach is tender. Do not overcook or the soup will lose its fresh green colour. Add the chopped rosemary.

3. Liquidise and taste. Serve in warm bowls garnished with a blob of whipped cream and a sprig of rosemary. If you have a pretty rosemary bush in bloom, sprinkle a few flowers over the top for extra pzazz.

Wild Blueberry and Rose Geranium Sugar Bites

recipe by:Darina Allen

Everyone should have a sweet geranium plant on their windowsill. It’s got a haunting lemony scent and flavour and a variety of names.

Servings

24

Preparation Time

 25 mins

Cooking Time

 30 mins

Total Time

 55 mins

Course

 Dessert

Ingredients

• 175g (6oz) soft butter

• 150g (5oz) caster sugar

• 2 large eggs, preferably free range

• 175g (6oz) self-raising flour

• 2 tbsp freshly chopped sweet or rose geranium

• 225g (8oz) wild blueberries (blackberries or raspberries may also be used)

• For the rose geranium sugar:

• 50g (2oz) caster sugar

• 1 tbsp freshly chopped rose or sweet geranium

Method

1. Prepare a 25.5 x 18cm (10 x 7 inch) Swiss roll tin, well-greased or lined with parchment paper.

2. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.

3. Put the butter, caster sugar, eggs and self-raising flour and chopped sweet geranium into a food processor. Whizz for just a few seconds to amalgamate. It should be softish – add a little milk if necessary.

4. Spread evenly in the well-buttered tin. Sprinkle the blueberries (blackberries or raspberries if using) as evenly as possible over the top.

5. Bake in the preheated oven for 25-30 minutes approx. or until golden brown and well risen.

6. Allow to cool slightly, sprinkle with caster sugar whizzed with leaves of rose geranium. Serve in squares.

7. In Winter when the butter is harder to cream, it may be necessary to add 2-3 tablespoons of milk to lighten the mixture and texture.

Watermelon Lemonade

recipe by:Darina Allen

Serve this summer favourite well chilled!

Servings

12

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Cooking Time

 5 mins

Total Time

 20 mins

Course

 Dessert

Cuisine

 American

Ingredients

• 110g (4oz) sugar

• 110ml (4fl oz) water

• 600g (1 1/4lbs) cubed watermelon

• 675ml (1 pint 3fl oz) cold water

• 110ml (4fl oz) fresh lemon juice

Method

1. Place the watermelon into a blender. Cover and purée until smooth, then strain through a fine mesh sieve.

2. Next bring the sugar and water to a boil in a saucepan over a medium heat until the sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in the cold water and lemon juice.

3. Put lots of ice cubes into 12 glasses, scoop 2 or 3 tablespoons of watermelon purée over the ice, then top with the lemonade.

4. Gently stir before serving.

Hot Tips

Dún Bakery - Dungarvan, Co. Waterford

Yet another good news story.

Born out of the wake-up call we’ve all had due to the realisation of the impact of the Ukrainian war on grain exports. Dún Artisan Bakery on Main Street in Dungarvan has sustainability at its core. Caitriona Keating and Fergal Walsh, use homegrown fruits from their small farm in Tramore and Irish wheat to deliver their hyper-seasonal range of products. They regularly make 13 different types of sourdough bread with over 90% of the wheat they use grown and milled in Ireland.

Pop in if you are in Dungarvan in West Waterford, (open Wednesday – Saturday from 8am – 4pm and from 9.30am – 2pm on Sunday).

• For more information, see @dunbakery on Instagram

The Business of Food Course – 12th September 2022

Do you want to open a restaurant or café or add pub food but don’t know how? The Business of Food Course run by catering consultant Blathnaid Bergin will give you the practical tools to do just that.

Up to 30% funding available through National Organic Training Skillnet (NOTS) – www.nots.ie

• For more information, see www.thebusinessoffood.ie