25 of Cork and Munster's best beer gardens to try in the sunshine
L-R: Beer gardens at The Franciscan Well; Clancy's and Levis' Corner House
The family recently passed a few weeks sweltering under the Mediterranean sun.Â
It was seemingly eternal, unceasing from dawn âtil dusk to the point where my other and exceedingly better half dared to suggest a body might even get bored of endless sunshine and the lack of climactic variation.Â
Iâve waded my way through a sufficiency of soggy Irish summers to reserve immediate agreement with the notion but had to acknowledge that it is very hard indeed to beat a proper summerâs day in Ireland, quite probably because they are so comparatively rare, though this week we find ourselves in luck, with the word âheatwaveâ being bandied around.
For a spell, in July last year, when temperatures hovered around 25ËC for five days in a row and Ireland recorded its first-ever âtropicalâ night (where the gauge never dropped below 20ËC), our couple of weeks in West Cork seemingly transmogrified into a Grecian idyll you wouldnât trade for anywhere else in the world.
And when The Golden Orb is high in the sky, beaming down its ultraviolet smile on the Oulâ Sod, there are few pleasures to beat an ice-cold drink al fresco in some outdoor sanctuary in the company of good friends and family, most especially when it is random, unexpected and impromptu, much like a typical Irish summerâs day.
Whatâs more, as the Irish pub evolves into the 21st century, there is a growing realisation that more and more punters would like to eat as much as drink and plenty of the establishments on our list offer some very fine grub indeed, allowing you to make a day and night of it; an Irish beer garden on a beautiful day is very hard to prise oneself from, so the option of dining is most welcome, greatly decreasing the chances of you having to pour yourself out the door at closing time and spending the next three days whimpering in some darkened chamber curled up in a foetal ball.
Naturally, a beer garden in the country is an extraordinary delight, most especially in coastal locations, but, equally, it is a special pleasure, perhaps even more so, when cooped up in the city on such days, to find an urban oasis. Here is a selection of some of the finest in Cork city and county, augmented by a special pick from each of the other counties in Munster.
One of Corkâs great âold manâ pubs was successfully transformed into a splendid live music venue while holding on to its wonderful character, the partially covered beer garden is a year-round pleasure, a charming space that is quite delightful on hot summer nights.
One of the original and best in the city, a lovely space in the summer sunshine and with a real open fire for hardier souls who want to make it a year-round affair. With a wood-fired pizza oven right in the middle of the garden, turning out good pizzas, you barely have to stray from your bench to have the perfect day.
This historical old boozer in the heart of the city has been reinvigorated since it reopened in 2019 and the food offering begins with breakfast and runs right through til 9pm, including in-house pizza. But itâs the wonderful rooftop space that seals the deal, a perfect spot to sip something from the extensive cocktail list while peering across the rooftops.
Another city-centre location with a long history of hosting a great beer garden since, in various incarnations over the years in this great old Douglas St institution. Since becoming Fionbarraâs, it has turned into a deservedly popular year-round drinking space, with the in-house pizza oven supplying the vittles.
One of the originals, in so many ways, beginning with a bank of grass alongside the in-house craft brewery, The Fran Well is now one of the best outdoor spaces in the country, a Leeside take on a Munich beer hall with a fine range of craft beers and superb pizzas from the Pompeii Pizza outlet anchoring the space. Cosy in winter and blissfully indolent in full summer sun.
SoHo is fully equipped with all the usual components for a convivial afternoon in the sun â beers, beverages, cocktails, and a tidy menu â but their location seals the deal, on one of the highest of the old city centre buildings with a truly superior vista including great views of Triskel Christchurch and the park alongside.
Though design and layout may be kindly described as âprosaicâ or âfunctionalâ in comparison to others on this list, it is most splendid following the exertions of beloved Cork City FC, with the Turnerâs Cross pitch directly alongside on the other side of the dividing fence, with the added bonus of easy access to a pint of plain.
Many city bars used the pandemic as an excuse to create, not so much a beer garden as a âterraceâ, in other words, sling a bunch of tables and chairs on the footpath outside. Some do it better than others. The Roundy has been doing it for years and, on a good day, its site on one of the cityâs major confluences offers a prime spot for a people-watching and a pint.
This is where our selection begins to grow legs, with three fine drinking establishments for the price of one, all under the colourful canopies of Union Quay. Historically, a fine summerâs day, especially on the weekend, inevitably saw punters spill out of the bars and right across the road to the riverside on what has been sometimes referred to locally as âThe Gaza Stripâ and this writer recalls a glorious afternoon when FĂ©ile came to PĂĄirc UĂ Chaoimh, in the 90s, and the Strip hosted a crowd to rival that in the stadium down the road. Now, there are tables and chairs and even table service from the evergreen Charlieâs and the revitalised El Fenix, while, on meteorologically favourable days, the very splendid LâAt 51 offers al fresco dining and one of the finest selection of natural wines in the country for that full-blown continental Europe feel.
If that last selection was cheeky, how about this for brass neck: We offer the entirety of Cork City, or at the very least, substantial parts of the city centre, as an option for al fresco supping. The innovative transformation of Princeâs Street into an outdoor parade of covered hospitality offerings, followed by the truly enlightened pedestrianisation of 17 city streets by Cork City Council has forever changed the character of Cork, and very much for the better.
When the weather gets it right, Corkonians unleash their inner Latinate selves and the fiesta ensues. Even in places with no formal street furniture or designated areas, a carnival atmosphere can ensue.
On a recent day in May, with the sun doing its thing to great effect, observing from one of three tables outside the very excellent Bierhaus, on Popeâs Quay, and just a hop and skip down from the equally excellent Myo cafĂ©, we witnessed scores of people congregating in the sun all along the quay wall across the road, drinking coffees, beers and sometimes nothing other than the sunâs rays.
Especially popular with many of the New Corkonians, particularly those from southern Europe, it has been christened locally as Corkâs âLeft Bankâ.
The beer garden space is simple and functional, but you wonât spend much time looking around at the garden furniture because youâll be mesmerised by the glorious views. Sited on Sheepâs Head, it looks across Dunmanus Bay, to Mizen and on a good day, there are few finer places to be in the world. And good days are invariably improved further by a cracking little menu of well-cooked local produce.
This third-generation family pub offers two outdoor spaces: A splendid open courtyard; and, the more petite Grannyâs Garden, sheltered and non-smoking, decorated with art and wonderful planting. Great craft beers and wines and mixologist John Coleman turns out superb cocktails, all capped by the ever-superb restaurant menu. There is regular live music and entertainment, both indoors and outside.
A great pub, the Blackbird beer garden is a machine of some sophistication without for a moment losing its antique character, retractable roof offering ample protection from weatherâs extremes. Whatâs more, the beer garden is also home to The Field Kitchen turning out smashing fish and chips.
Located in the heart of the very lovely village of Timoleague, the Monkâs Lane garden is a truly delightful space, beautifully planted and with all manner of cosy corners to pitch up in. A great range of beers, wines and cocktails, and a full menu of fine fare.
That old favourite, perched on the hill overlooking Myrtleville Beach, has been given a makeover in recent years turning it into a wonderful outdoor space to match the charms of the interior with shipping containers added to offer further protection from the elements. A full menu of family-friendly fare is also on offer.
Not only is the Mexican Day of the Dead-themed beer garden a splendid covered sanctuary to the rear of the currently shuttered pub â a true West Cork original and this writerâs most favourite of all watering holes â a wonderful al fresco location for a tall, cold one but a train of food trucks, this summer including Caitlin Ruth Food, operating to the rear of the garden make it one of the hottest summer food destinations in all of West Cork, with a large covered seating area for those inevitable rainy days.
At the end of a cul-de-sac on Mizen Head in the little fishing village of Crookhaven, lies an opportunity to relish a pint and an open crab sandwich in OâSullivanâs, alongside the harbour, a time honoured tradition. Even overly frequent âmistyâ West Cork summer days, canât spoil the experience and the cocooning welcome.
This single-storey corrugated-iron âshackâ could be a cantina in Mexico if Mexico were ever to become as wet and green. The interior is equally âpared backâ, and the pint of stout is truly sumptuous but it is only when clock the rear of the pub that you encounter the superb Victorian gardens planted in the 19th century, sloping down to the waterâs edge of glorious Dunmanus Bay.
A cosy and characterful traditional little pub featuring plenty of live Irish music and a very tasty take on a straight-down-the-line pub grub menu, it is only when you step outside to the very picturesque Riverside Terrace that you experience the full breadth of this cracking little East Cork treasure, with outdoor seating overlooking the Kiltha river providing a charming and bucolic spot to while away a sunny afternoon.Â
The pub itself is set in an old two story country house and with very little in the way of embellishment, particularly the rather bald âbeer gardenâ outside but the view was crafted by Mother Nature when she was having one of her particularly inspired days, with a magnificent vista of Capeâs beautiful harbour and the wild Atlantic.
Anyway, Cotterâs on a good day always generates an atmosphere to outshine any amount of decorative trinkets.
One of this writerâs most favourite seaside venues, right beside New Quay harbour, in which to while away a sunny afternoon, ideally stretching into a languid summerâs eve and, sure, while youâre at it, letâs make a night of it altogether.
Nothing better than sitting on the terrace enjoying a pint of porter until itâs time to order local lobster, and finest Riesling, capping your appetite with views across the water to Co Galway.
In a lovely town flush with equally lovely pubs, itâs an especial pleasure to sup an early evening jorum, perched on a bench outside The Moorings.
While there is also a courtyard bar adjacent to the rear of the pub, itâs hard to beat sitting out front to savour the views of the picture postcard harbour, in this relaxed nautical-themed pub, serving a fine range of Irish craft beer and spirits and a bistro-style menu specialising in local seafood.
Mikey Ryanâs spent several years holding the fort until âBig Brotherâ â The Cashel Palace Hotel â finally opened its doors for business very recently.
It will remain an important part of this twin hospitality offering, and while the hotelâs grounds are truly sumptuous, Mikey Ryanâs is no slouch either with picnic benches to the rear of the glass-walled pub and drinks available from the Horse Box Bar, topped up by The Secret Garden, a hidden walled garden barbecue space for up to 30.
And then, the , The Glass Well, a glass garden room for private dining groups, holding up to 12.Â
In a city with some absolutely cracking pubs, and several with lovely river frontage along the mighty Shannon, what is regarded as the cityâs oldest boozer, dating back to 1794 in premises built in the late 1600s, has the very best outdoor setup of all, close enough to the water to hand a pint over the railing to passing river craft.
The covered garden offers ample shelter, ideal for an Irish summer and with big screens and regular barbecues, it makes for an ideal âsports venueâ if a trip to nearby Thomond Park or the Gaelic Grounds is a step too far.www.jjbowles.com
Even when this writer visited as a child, many decades ago, Dick Mackâs wore the air of an iconic institution, but the more recent addition of the brewhouse, taproom and outdoor yard with some very fine food trucks, has taken the party outdoors, a pet-friendly space with plenty of live music and entertainment.Â
Look out for CĂĄis in Dingle, when over-plentiful porter requires mopping up with a spot of very fine nosebag, in this case, some killer cheese toasties.
