Restaurant Review: Nomo Ramen is worth a spiritual quest to try for yourself

Nomo Ramen was created by Dubliner Kevin Hughes and has been in the planning for 7 years
Restaurant Review: Nomo Ramen is worth a spiritual quest to try for yourself

Nomo Ramen

Nomo Ramen, 4 Charlotte Way, Dublin 2.

Nomoramen.ie, Instagram: @nomo_ramen

It is obligatory when reviewing a Ramen restaurant to mention the classic ‘Ramen Western’ comedy Tampopo starring Ken Watanabe. I have just discovered that Tampopo is available for free on YouTube and it is well worth a watch, you will learn that Ramen is not just fast food it is a contemplative spiritual experience - or at least it should be.

Nomo Ramen was created by Dubliner Kevin Hughes and has been in the planning for 7 years he tells me. In fact it has been in his head a lot longer as he remembers his grandad bringing him to Ramen shops in China when he was around 6 years old on the back of a bicycle. Kevin grew up in Dublin and trained as a chef but the need to open a Ramen restaurant in Dublin was cemented during his time in the US as much as his own background.

The key to Ramen is of course the clear broth which is usually chicken based as it is in Nomo - Keven spent 2 years perfecting it which is exactly the kind of attention to detail I like to hear - Ramen requires it.

Nomo Ramen
Nomo Ramen

Nomo Ramen is in a former coffee shop on Charlotte Way which connects Camden Street to Harcourt Street, just a few steps from fried chicken spot Mad Egg (which I reviewed positively here in 2018). The décor is pleasingly minimalist but comfortable, with the kitchen in full view and charming welcoming staff.

The menu is short with four starters and four ramen choices and a daily special. We ordered most of it for what we pretended was research purposes - in reality because we were just greedy.

First to arrive was a Hirata Bun (€4.50) which turned out to be a fluffy steamed bao filled with meaty rich 24 hour-marinated pork lifted a little by a crunchy, punchy homemade pickle and some hoisin sauce. Next to arrive was Mushroom Karaage (€7.50), a large bowl of deep fried crunchy oyster mushrooms with a light hoisin mayonnaise dipping sauce. We did not manage to finish these - not because they weren’t good but because all that followed was even better.

Next came around eight crispy Izakaya chicken wings which were pleasingly crunchy without and meaty and tender within. The Chicken Katsu Don special €11.50) )was even better - panko fried chicken breast atop lightly sticky rice with some shredded leek and pickles on top for extra crunch and kick. This was in reality another main course but we made a good fist of it all the same.

Next came the main event - the Ramen. My son opted for the San Diego Ramen (€13.50) made with a vegan Oat milk based broth with roasted tomatoes and caramelised onion and leeks. This was creamy and satisfying and vegans will not feel in any way left out, but being my son he cheated and ordered some extra chasu pork on the side for €3 extra.

My own Karai OG Nomo Ramen (€16.50) seemed to be much the same as the classic Nomo Ramen but with the addition of Chilli Rayu which added some heat and extra textures. The noodles were pleasingly firm and textured with a slight curl that made them easier to gather with our chopsticks and the chicken broth was focused and did indeed approach the spiritual.

The drinks menu is a choice of Kirin lager or Whiplash Pale Ale (plus soft drinks) - both of which worked well with the Ramen with the extra zing of the Whiplash having the edge for me. There are no desserts on offer as you might expect , but I bet if they put an ice-cream sandwich on the menu it would do well.

Nomo is a hugely welcome addition to the city and a significant step up from the other ramen I’ve tried in Dublin. But was it a spiritual experience? I believe it was, Ramen done right is soul food and while our tummies were heavy as we left, our souls definitely felt lighter.

—

The Tab:

A greedy meal for two with four starters, two large bowls of Ramen and four beers cost €102.35

Note: Booking is not required

Closed Monday

Tues, Wed, Sun: 12-5pm, 5.30-9.30
Thur, Fri, Sat: 12-5pm, 5.30-10pm

The Verdict:

Food: 8.5/10

Drink: 7/10

Service: 9/10

Ambiance: 8.5/10

Value: 9/10

In a Sentence:

A supremely satisfying and tasty meal, worth a spiritual quest to try for yourself.

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