Wine with Leslie: The best French Claret to drink this summer
Claret, in case you are wondering, is a corruption of ‘Clairet’, the name for a lighter style of Bordeaux that is still around but rarely seen on Irish shelves these days.
Ireland and France have a long history for many reasons, partly due to proximity, a shared religion, a shared ‘old enemy’ and of course through trade.
‘Enjoying Claret in Georgian Ireland’ by Patricia McCarthy is a beautiful new book that explores the Irish love of red Bordeaux wine which continues to this day, but arguably reached its peak in the 18th-century Georgian period. Patricia’s previous book was where she realised just how central claret was to the life of a Georgian Gentleman (and a few Gentlewomen).
Many a second son or exiled Wild Geese revolutionary ended up in the wine trade in Bordeaux and this strengthened an already burgeoning trade. Their names are still there on the labels - Barton, Lynch, McCarthy, Phelan and Dillon. Jonathan Swift called claret ‘Irish Wine’ and in the Georgian period, we drank more of it than all the other UK nations combined. Gentlemen competed on the size and quality of their wine cellars, there were ‘5 bottles a day’ men, and it was a central part of Irish hospitality, liberally served at every ball or social gathering.
McCarthy’s book is joyful throughout and delves into everything from recommended cures for gout (unexpectedly a common ailment of the Georgian Gentleman), to the management of the Georgian cellar to the emergence of the wine connoisseur (God help us!). Drinking clubs such as the notorious Hellfire Club are discussed and a general appreciation of the joys and excesses of Irish conviviality is the dominant theme that runs through the book - it is lavishly illustrated, well written and warmly recommended - every wine-loving gentleman and gentlewoman in the land needs a copy for their shelf.
Claret, in case you are wondering, is a corruption of ‘Clairet’, the name for a lighter style of Bordeaux that is still around but rarely seen on Irish shelves these days. The colour is somewhere between a Rosé and a light red with a deep pink colour - a perfect summer wine. The current fashion for pale onion-skin pink Provence Rosé has surely not helped sales.
All six suggestions this week are for ‘Claret’ in different price ranges. The scale of Bordeaux’s production is enormous so it can be found anywhere from under €10 to over €1,000. Bordeaux is also one of the few regions left where the average ABV is 13.5%, making Claret one of the most food-friendly and digestible of wines.
Stockist: Centra
This is part of the Centra French Wine Sale that finishes on the 8th June, worth checking out - the André Goichot Fleurie at €10 is also recommended. This pours with a dark purple hue, cassis aromas with a hint of blackcurrant leaf - solidly made with good fruit and some light spice notes on the finish. Excellent for the price but I would recommend decanting to open it up a little - serve with something meaty.
Stockist: Dunnes Stores
The Côtes of Bourg/Castillon/Blaye used to be labelled separately but now are under the same AOP. This is brand new to Dunnes but should be on the shelves by the time this appears. Dark purple with a black centre, blackcurrant and dark fruit aromas with a hint of chocolate, lively and fruit driven - perhaps a little crunchy and taut but with decent balance. Worth decanting.
Stockist: Aldi
Saint Émilion Grand Cru is more or less the equivalent of Cru Bourgeois in the Médoc and it is rare to see one at this price. Rounded dark plum and dark berry fruit aromas, solidly fruity with some light chocolate tones on the mid-palate and with good weight and length. A solid Merlot based Bordeaux from a ripe year that should age and improve for a few years yet.
Stockists: O’Briens, Greenacres, Jus de Vine, Searsons, Independents, www.theallotment.ie
The Barton family still have their Irish citizenship and is very much a family affair with Lillian Barton looking after Langoa and Léoville Barton and her children the more recently acquired Mauvesin Barton. The 2014 was served at the book launch and it has some pleasing chewy cherry fruits but I think I prefer the younger 2018 for its juicy dark fruits with hints of mint, dark chocolate and blackcurrants.
Stockists: McCurtain St Wine Cellar, JJ O’Driscolls, Vintry, Jus de Vine, Independents.
This is the second wine of the Margaux estate Chateau d'Angludet - their first wine will set you back around €95. While not a Cru Classé the estate has had a solid reputation for over a century. Aromas of violets and blackberry juice, supple, ripe and elegant on the palate - despite its youth and some crunch, this is a gorgeous drink right now.
Stockists: MacCurtain St, Bradleys, The Corkscrew www.thecorkscrew.ie, Blackrock Cellar, Green Man, Baggot St. Wines..
From a higher elevation vineyard planted with 85% Merlot from one of France’s organic/biodynamic pioneers. This is as ‘natural’ as Bordeaux wine gets with ripe blackberry aromas, a delightfully fruity and plum-driven palate and with a pleasing freshness and drinkability. Le Puy always has fine-focused energy and purity, something Bordeaux needs more of - worth its reputation.
Stockists: Tesco, Carry Outs, O’Briens, Martins Fairview, McHughs, Lilac Wines, Joyces Galway.
The Macivor family planted their first orchard back in 1855 and have been growing apples ever since. This is available as a four-pack for €10 in some outlets and is a little lower in alcohol than the regular MacIvors.
This is made from 100% eating apples (e.g. Falstaff, Elstar and Golden Delicious), so is well suited to a session style cider. Aromas of baked pears and ripe apples, fruity and crisp on the palate with dried apple and citrus notes with some textured tannins to balance out any sweetness. This finishes pleasingly dry with lingering tangy green apple touches.
