Wine with Leslie: Warm days and cold nights give the best Malbec
Argentine barbecue, "asado", on the embers, and glass of Malbec wine, traditional Argentine weekend meal.
Elsewhere in tomorrow’s Weekend magazine, I was asked about my typical Easter Sunday dinner and, (like most Irish people I suspect), I mention roast lamb. I don’t always go with Spring Lamb however and have often served hogget and even mutton which you can find in Halal shops. Both work particularly well marinated in yoghurt and spices and slow roasted as per Madhur Jaffrey’s classic ‘Lamb Raan Masaldar’ recipe which is worth a Google if you haven’t tried it.
Lamb Raan works particularly well with a good Argentinian Malbec and it so happens that this Easter Sunday coincides with World Malbec Day. I tend to ignore most of these grape days — but to be fair to Argentinian winemakers they invented the concept and unlike say Sauvignon Blanc (first Friday in May if you are interested), there is only one place we associate with Malbec and that is Mendoza in North Western Argentina.
Of course Malbec is grown elsewhere (it originates in Cahors in SW France) but it rarely reaches the same richness and density of flavour anywhere other than in the high altitude Andean vineyards of Argentina where days are warm and nights are cold to ensure ripe fruits but also freshness. The closest Europe gets to these flavours is in some of Spain’s altitude vineyards such as Ribera del Duero which is also famous for lamb — often suckling lamb roasted over vine cuttings simply rubbed with olive oil.
Selections this week are some wines suitable for lamb including a couple of good Malbecs and some classic wines from France. Lamb is very flexible so feel free to serve a good red wine of your choice — Claret and Rioja work well also.
As expected with the Easter Break the multiples all have sales and special offers on should you need to stock up:
Centra has an Italian sale until the 27th with Ricossa Gavi at €12 and Costa Mediana Amarone at €16 among others.
O’Briens meanwhile has a French Wine Sale on this month with some great prices including Piper Heidsieck at €43 and Taitinger at €45 if you feel like some fizz. Château D’Esclans Rosé (big brother of Whispering Angel) is down from €57 to €45.60 and in Bordeaux you will find Ch. Sociando Mallet 2018 for €44 and Ch. Kirwan 2017 for €58.40. In whites Chanson Meursault is at €44 (down from €55) and Chassagne Montrachet at €41.60 and if you are in the mood for Village Burgundy try Dom. Olivier Santenay at €26.36.
This is on special offer in both Dunnes (€9.60) and SuperValu at the moment, reduced from its original price of €16. From grapes grown at more than 1000m altitude in Tupungato in the Uco Valley (in Mendoza Province) in calcareous soils (good for water retention).
Dark fruit aromas with hints of violet and liquorice, fruity and bright with crunchy berry fruits on the palate and good length.
This is from an Australian-Irish couple (winemaker and viticulturist respectively) who grow organic old-vine Carignan, Grenache and Syrah in the Languedoc — reduced from €17 for this month as part of the French Wine Sale.
Fermented with wild yeasts, this is packed with ripe, spicy, black cherry and blackberry scents with soft juicy fruits on the palate and a touch of spice on the finish.
This old favourite is on special offer in Dunnes at the moment with a €5-6 reduction — you will find it elsewhere approaching the €20 mark.
Fleurie is often described as ‘floral’ and, while there is a certain amount of nominative determinism in this description, it is generally true so expect violets mixed in with the soft plum, black cherry and bramble fruits and not a little elegance.
The Corkscrew just off Grafton St. in Dublin is 18 years old this year and has an 18% discount and various offers in celebration. This is one they bring in themselves and is exclusive to the shop.
Ribera del Duero is famous for its lamb so this would match your Easter roast nicely: fruity and expressive with generous plum fruits, pleasing density and ripeness and a crisp juicy finish.
This is one of the best and most affordable Châteauneuf-du-Pape around and is at this low price for the next few weeks in the O’Brien’s French Wine Sale (reduced from €45).
Aromas of rich berry fruits mixed with garrigue herbs and some light spice, plums and creamy ripe fruits on the palate with pleasing suppleness offset by some nice crunch and texture thanks to its youth.
This will be a treat for any Malbec lovers out there as it has beautiful purity and texture, and despite its weight some pleasing elegance.
From historic rows of old vines in particularly good locations which are harvested separately this has ripe blueberry and raspberry aromas with dark cherry and chocolate fruits on the palate and a pleasing crispness on the finish.
At the time of writing this is selling out so apologies for not getting to it sooner. From a recipe developed by displaced Ukrainian brewers and brewed by Ballykilcavan Brewery in Laois — 100% of the proceeds will go to the Red Cross to help with the humanitarian crisis in Ukraine. Recipe and fundraising initiatives at DrinkersForUkraine.com. Expect another ‘Resist’ Anti-Imperial Stout from Elbow Lane later this month.
This pours a rich dark chocolate brown with a light frothy head and aromas of milk chocolate and mocha. Creamy and balanced on the palate with pleasing dark chocolate and roasted oat flavours and lingering bitter cherry notes. Slava Ukraini!
