The secret to great Indian food and how to make an authentic chicken biryani

For chef Asma Khan, food is the best way to transport herself home
The secret to great Indian food and how to make an authentic chicken biryani

Chef Assma Khan says that biryani signalled a celebratory meal in her home, growing up. 

“Biryani was always made for big celebratory occasions,” says chef Asma Khan, author of Ammu — a cookbook dedicated to her mother.

“This is also usually the last dish I eat at home before I make the five-hour car journey from my parents’ home to the airport to catch my flight to London. I always felt that layered in that biryani were things my mother couldn’t say. When the biryani arrived on the table, it felt like Ammu’s secret code, telling me that she loved me.”

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