Darina Allen: Chicken curry and chocolate brownies inspired by a trip to India

A few of the new recipes I learned while staying at Ahilya Fort 

Some of the delicious treats I ate during my stay at Ahilya Fort.

Last year our Indian holiday had to be cancelled for all the reasons we are now familiar with, so rather than ask for a refund, we deferred our booking for 12 months so we had something really to look forward to throughout the ups and downs of the last year.

In November 2021, India reopened for travel and one could get a month-long visa so rather than hop from one place to another, we decided to go directly to Ahilya Fort, an enchanting heritage property perched high above the sacred Narmada River in Maheshwar where there’s always a gentle breeze.

It’s quite a mission to get there, Cork to Amsterdam and onto Delhi and then a domestic flight to Indore. A driver from the hotel welcomes you at the airport with a picnic to sustain you for the almost two-hour journey to the exquisitely restored fort, originally the home of Ahilya Bai, the warrior Queen who ruled Indore from 1765 – 1796. The driving force behind the restoration project was Prince Richard Holkar, a descendant of Queen Ahilya Bai. He and his first wife, Sally Holkar, also re-established the almost extinct hand weaving industry for which Maheshwar was justly famous and is now once again thriving. Women now come from all over India to choose a much-coveted Maheshwar silk sari.

The balcony of our bedroom overlooked the ghats (steps), temples and chattris on the riverbank where there is endless activity from sunrise to sunset. It’s a riot of colour. Before dawn, local women come to wash their clothes in the river. Hundreds of pilgrims, some of whom have walked for more than 150kms with their little bundle of possessions, pour onto the ghats to perform their pujas and bathe in the sacred river to wash away their sins. Others chant, sing, pray. Children fly homemade kites, feed the sacred river fish and sell brightly coloured baubles to Indian tourists on day trips. There’s street food galore, poha, pingers, poppodums, sugar cane juice, guavas. The women bathe in their beautiful saris and then spread them out on the ghats to dry. Little boats, all gaily painted, ferry devotees backwards and forwards across the km wide river to the myriad of temples on both riverbanks: from the poorest to the most affluent, everyone is so devout — it’s incredibly moving.

From early morning to late at night, the air is fragrant with the smell of food from the numerous street stalls, katchori, pakoras, bright orange jalebi, poha, robori, and a wonderful fluffy saffron milk bubbling in a large kari (iron wok).

By now you can tell that I love India. 

I had several wonderful cooking classes in Indian homes, usually from grandmothers who still do everything from scratch and cook over an open fire with wood and dried cow dung patties. The latter may sound very strange to us but in fact, it’s very common in rural India. Food cooked over dried dung fires tastes delicious. They don’t smell at all, it’s a brilliant way of recycling and guess what — you can buy Indian cow patties (gotha) via Amazon. 

How about the food at Ahilya Fort?

All meals are included in the room rate plus afternoon tea and non-alcoholic cocktails from 7-8pm. Much of the produce is home-grown in the organic gardens, on the farm or comes beautifully fresh from local markets.

Memorable, long lazy breakfasts with deliciously ripe fresh fruit and juices, homemade yoghurt (curd), jams made by Prince Richard Holkar himself, freshly baked breads. I made kumquat marmalade from the fruit in the garden and picked the lemons from the lemon tree to make a zesty lemon curd. There’s an Indian speciality every day, dosa with sambal, idli, uppam, masala omelette or Maheshwari scrambled eggs.

Lunch is mostly western vegetarian food but for dinner it's a different Thali every night, with 6 or 7 little bowls of delicious Indian food and fresh crunchy vegetables with a segment of lime and salt.

Some of the recipes come from Prince Richard Holkar’s book, Cooking of the Maharajas, others have been brought to Ahilya Fort by the cooks from their family homes.

Many in India are vegetarian, so there’s a ‘veg’ and ‘non-veg’ option at every meal and an Indian dessert — perhaps carrot or guava halwa, lemongrass kheer, gulab jamum, lapsi. Not all Indian food is spicy but I looked forward to every meal at Ahilya Fort. Here are a few recipes for some of the food I enjoyed.

ahilyafort.com

Ahilya Fort Virgin Chicken

recipe by:Darina Allen

Not sure how this recipe got its name but the end result is intriguing and delicious. Serve with Basmati rice.

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 10 mins

Cooking Time

 40 mins

Total Time

 50 mins

Course

 Main

Cuisine

 Indian

Ingredients

• For the sauce:

• ½ - 1 tbsp chilli flakes

• 1 tbsp peeled and grated ginger

• 2 tsp salt

• 110ml (4fl oz) natural yoghurt

• 110ml (4fl oz) cream

• For the chicken:

• 50ml (2fl oz) clarified ghee/butter

• 900g (2lbs) chicken pieces, preferably skinned, cut into 5cm (2 inch) pieces with bone in, if possible

• 225ml – 450ml (8-16fl oz) hot water

• For the poppy seed purée:

• 1 ½ tbsp poppy seeds

• 50g (2oz) frozen or desiccated coconut

• 14 almonds, peeled and coarsely chopped

• 110ml (4fl oz) whole milk

Method

1. Put the chilli flakes into a blender and blitz, add the ginger, salt, yoghurt and cream and blend to a smooth purée.

2. Pour the clarified butter into a wide sauté pan over a medium heat. When it melts, add the chicken pieces and the purée. Mix thoroughly. Add 175ml (6fl oz) of hot water and simmer uncovered until tender (add extra water as necessary).

3. Meanwhile, put the poppy seeds into the blender and blitz. Add the remaining ingredients. Blend to a smooth purée. Add this purée to the chicken ten minutes before serving. Heat through, stirring gently.

4. Just before serving, stir in the remaining ingredients. Serve on a mound of Basmati rice to absorb the sauce. Garnish with lime wedges.

Chocolate Brownie with Pistachio and Rose Petals

This is based on a delicious brownie recipe created by super baker Claire Ptak of Violet Cakes, in London. It was a BIG success. We’ve gilded the lily by adding a drizzle of ganache, coarsely chopped pistachio and a few rose petals

Servings

10

Preparation Time

 13 mins

Cooking Time

 25 mins

Total Time

 38 mins

Course

 Baking

Ingredients

• 75g (6oz) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, plus extra for greasing

• 350g (12oz) dark chocolate, broken into pieces (approx. 60-70% cocoa solids) (we use Valrhona)

• 50g (2oz) cocoa powder

• 225g (8oz) white flour or spelt flour

• ½ tsp baking powder

• 1 tsp salt

• 400g (14oz) caster sugar

• 4 organic eggs (about 200g/7oz)

• 2 tsp vanilla extract

• For the chocolate ganache:

• 125ml (4 1/2fl oz) cream

• 110g (4oz) dark chocolate, chopped into pieces

• To garnish:

• 50g (2oz) pistachios, chopped

• 3 tsp dried rose petals

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Butter and line a 20 x 30cm (8 x 11 inch) baking dish with parchment paper.

2. In a heatproof bowl, melt the butter and chocolate over water that has been brought to the boil and then taken off the heat. Leave the mixture to rest, stirring occasionally as it melts.

3. In another bowl, sift together the cocoa, spelt flour and baking powder. Sprinkle over the salt.

4. In the bowl of an electric mixer, whisk together the sugar, eggs and vanilla extract until light and fluffy. Slowly add the melted chocolate mixture, followed by the combined dry ingredients and pour into the prepared baking dish. Bake in the preheated oven for 25 minutes — the brownies should be set but with a slight wobble.

5. Meanwhile, make the ganache.

6. Put the cream in a heavy-bottomed stainless-steel saucepan and bring it almost to the boil. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate. With a wooden spoon, stir the chocolate into the cream until it is completely melted. Leave it to cool to room temperature.

7. Slather a little chocolate ganache on top of the brownies. Sprinkle with the chopped pistachios and rose petals. Cut the brownies into squares and enjoy.

Indian Cauliflower and Tomato Stew

recipe by:Darina Allen

I love this combination — delicious alone or as a side with chicken, lamb or beef.

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 5 mins

Cooking Time

 20 mins

Total Time

 25 mins

Course

 Input

Cuisine

 Indian

Ingredients

• 5 tbsp vegetable oil or olive oil

• ¼ tsp mustard seeds

• ¼ tsp cumin seeds

• 2 onions, chopped

• 1 tsp garlic paste (peeled and crushed garlic)

• 1 tsp ginger paste (peeled and crushed fresh ginger)

• 1 tsp turmeric powder

• 1 tsp red chilli powder

• 1 tsp coriander powder

• 500g (18oz) cauliflower, cut into small florets

• 50ml (2fl oz) water

• 5 ripe tomatoes, peeled, deseeded and diced

• lots of fresh coriander to serve

Method

1. Heat the oil in a kari (iron wok), add the mustard and cumin seeds, then the chopped onion and cook for 2-3minutes. Then add the garlic and ginger paste and cook and stir for a further 5 minutes. Add the turmeric, chilli, coriander and salt to taste. Cook for 3-4 minutes on a medium heat.

2. Add the cauliflower florets. Stir, cover and simmer for 5 –10 minutes or until just cooked. Add the fresh tomato dice and cook for 3 minutes. Taste and serve with lots of fresh coriander.

Ahilya Fort Chicken Survedar

recipe by:Darina Allen

Another of my favourite recipes from Cooking of the Maharajas by Prince Richard Holkar

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 28 mins

Cooking Time

 20 mins

Total Time

 48 mins

Course

 Main

Cuisine

 Indian

Ingredients

• 1kg (2 ¼lb) organic chicken cut into 5cm (2 inch) pieces with bone in

• 6 tbsp clarified ghee/butter

• 1 onion, finely chopped

• 2 tbsp ginger paste (45g)

• 2 tbsp garlic paste (45g – approx. 1 bulb of garlic)

• 1 tbsp poppy seeds

• ¼ tbsp turmeric powder

• 1 ½ tbsp freshly ground black pepper

• 2 tsp salt – may need more

• 450ml (16fl oz) coconut milk

• 10 – 12 cashew nuts, coarsely chopped

• fresh coriander

Method

1. Heat the clarified ghee or butter in a pan. Add the chopped onion, stir and cook for 2-3 minutes. Add the ginger and garlic paste, poppy seeds and turmeric. Cook for 2-3 minutes.

2. Add the freshly ground black pepper and salt and continue to cook for 3-4 minutes, add the chicken pieces, cover, and cook for a further 10 minutes. Add the coconut milk and cook until the chicken is tender.

3. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Before serving, add the coarsely chopped cashew nuts and lots of fresh coriander.

HOT TIPS

‘An Afternoon of Spring Delights’ at Ballymaloe Cookery School

Tuesday, February 22, 2022; 2.30pm – 5pm.

Looking for something to do this February. This half-day course gives you a tantalising taste of the Ballymaloe Cookery School. We’ll share some of our favourite Spring dishes using seasonal ingredients.

Limited numbers, complying with all government and NPHET regulations. €115 per person. Recipes and tastings of all dishes included.

cookingisfun.ie

The Cheese Press

The Cheese Press, a speciality grocery and organic caf é run by Sinéad Ní Ghairbhith located on Main Street in Ennistymon, Co. Clare is worth a detour. Check out the local cheeses including St Tola plus a variety of charcuterie boxes to choose from.

Look out for the dried tomato pesto, perfect for toasted sandwiches.

cheesepressennistymon.ie

‘My Little Hot Tip to save the planet’: Homemade Eco-Cleaner

This eco-cleaner top tip comes from my sister Blathnaid Bergin of The Business of Food — thebusinessoffood.ie

Mix half and half eco washing up liquid and malt vinegar — a brilliant multi-purpose cleaner. Saves a fortune and is brilliant for the planet too. It's great to lift tea stains off work surfaces.

Send your top tips to [e-mail] to share with other readers.