Restaurant review: A properly delicious night out at Arundels by the Pier in wilds of West Cork
Arundels By The Pier in Ahakista, Co. Cork. Pictures: Eddie O'Hare
Down on Sheep’s Head, in West Cork, just about the best hospitality take on al fresco dining during The Covid was and remains Arundel’s by the Pier, snugly tucked away in a clement little cove, a leeward shelter protected from prevailing Atlantic weather that scours the far westerly side of the peninsula into an infinitely more bleak and blasted wildness.
There are canopied picnic tables aplenty outside the pretty pub but across the road is the ‘beer garden’ — a rolling patch of green garden that leads down to the sea. Its few picnic tables are insufficient for the excess punters who are usually content to sit with pints and even plates on the low stone wall or the grass, Dunmanus Bay and Mizen Head on the opposite shore providing some of nature’s finest eye candy. To the left is Ahakista pier where local boats bring in crab, langoustines, shrimp and scallops, much of it for Arundel’s menu.
On sunny days and even days of no sun at all, with pint in one hand and bowl of fresh mussels in the other, watching children of all ages catapult from pier’s end into water before swimming back to do it all over again, is a most blissful way to pass an afternoon.
Tonight, however, is different. Not only are we dining indoors but pubs are finally reopened. Our motley crew is ferried over Mount Gabriel from Mizen by mini-bus, giddy at the prospect of a ‘proper’ night out. Arundel’s, glowing like a beacon as gloaming melts into night, beams its welcome like a convivial lighthouse.
Inside it is the ‘House of Fun’, the social equivalent of trekking through arid desert to fetch up at an oasis serving finest champagne, an utterly joyous crowd, intoxicated with demob spirit, celebrating release.
We troop through the bar to an unshowy, unfussy dining room upstairs, tonight glossed with the brilliant bonhomie rising up from downstairs. We start with pints and more-ish Durrus Cheese Croquettes, the exquisite primary ingredient courtesy of their peninsular neighbour.
Horror of horrors, though we are an early booking, both mussel dishes (spicy nduja; classic moules marinière) are finished, victims of high demand on bank holiday Sunday. Four of us immediately bypass lamb shanks with mash or chicken pie, plumping for fish and chips.
Considering hake can so easily tip over into mush when cooked at high temperature, this fish is perfect: succulent, sweet, housed in excellent crisp light batter, with decent chips and green salad on the side, all washed down with copious draughts of an acidic, herbaceous Italian white (Ciu Ciu; Trebbiano, Passerina, Pecorino).
There is a solitary smash burger ordered at our adult’s table, the generous patty of good beef from the excellent O’Donoghue’s butchers, in nearby Bantry, topped with melted cheese and crisp, streaky bacon, tomato and lettuce, good fresh red cabbage slaw, and chips on the side.
Dish of the night is Vegetable Tagine. Sugary rich carrots, silken succulent peppers and aubergines, and nicely al dente chickpeas swim in bright, spicy tomato sauce with an impish chilli kick, served with nutty pearl couscous and fresh green coriander.
A rustic dukkah (roasted nuts, spices, seasoning) adds complexity and texture to a thoughtfully rendered and tasty dish, a delight to see such care and attention afforded what is too often an afterthought ‘vegetarian’ option.
We’re in seventh heaven but with children long departed to play hide and seek outside in the dark, we reluctantly summon our waiting ‘carriage’, a bunch of Cinderellas bemoaning the fact we’re not remotely close to midnight.
Taken over by brothers Tom (chef) and Michael (front of house) Moloney at the end of the first lockdown in June last year, locals and tourists alike are justly delighted by the fabulous new lease of life given to this longstanding local favourite, not least with their superb sourcing from local producers.
We all thoroughly enjoy our meal, yet there is still room for improvement but do keep in mind that Tom and Michael have done wonders to not only debut but also to consistently deliver under the freakish conditions that have prevailed in these pandemic times.
Obvious indications abound of their latent ability allied to ambitious plans to gradually evolve their offering to another level entirely when the storm subsides.
Right now we’ll just have to make do with sheltering in the safe harbour of one of the best ‘locals’ in West Cork — and that is very far indeed from hardship!
7.5
8
9.5
10 (including The Covid ‘bonus’ lift!)
€200 (six adults, three children, including drinks, excluding tip)
- Reenacappul, Ahakista, Co. Cork
- (027) 67033
- arundelsbythepier.com
- Opening Hours: Sunday lunch only in November; expanded opening schedule resumes in December
