Wine with Leslie: Spanish wines punching above their price point in quality
Quality Spanish wine for under a tenner: bottoms up!
As you probably know by now I’m a huge fan of Spanish wines which represent some of the best value in the wine world right now. The Irish public has noticed too and Spanish wine sales are rising year on year and they now outsell France and Australia.
The good news is that next week is Spanish Food and Wine Week, October 4-10, and there are lots of events and tastings, both live and virtual for you to explore culinary Spain a little deeper. The best place to go is to this link: foodswinesfromspain.com/SFWW21 where you can find out what is happening in your area.
I will be introducing Spanish wines at three events during the week, firstly on Wednesday, October 6 at the Mustard Seed at Echo Lodge in Ballingarry — one of my favourite places to stay in Ireland thanks to the hospitality and gorgeous food all overseen by John Edward Joyce. For Thursday Lunch I’ll be in Platform 22 Café at The Barnagh Greenway Hub near Newcastle West matching tapas and wines, and that evening I’ll be in Solas Tapas Bar in Dingle for two sittings.
So why has Spain suddenly become so important in the wine world? Well, there are various reasons but one is that the investment in wineries and people in the boom years in the early 2000s paid off nicely after 2008. Spain always had potential but with modern equipment now in place in even the most backwater co-operatives and better education among young winemakers, the juice being produced was some of the best quality in the world and at low prices. This was exactly what was needed when importers went looking for good value wines to help us through the recession.
Spain has not had an easy time over the last 18 months with a shortage of tourists and weather problems so prices will probably stay low for a year or two yet and so do spend a bit of time in the Spanish section of the off-licence — I particularly recommend JJ O'Driscolls in Ballinlough which has one of the largest Spanish ranges in Munster.
Wines this week are all from Spain and show some of the fine diversity in the country. Two are up for medals in the NOffLA Gold Star Awards which will be announced on Monday next — LoLo Albariño and Coto de Imaz Rioja Reserva — but all punch above their price point in quality.
LoLo Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain — €14.95
This is from Salnés, the coolest of the five sub-regions of Rias Baixas in Galicia — vineyards are never far from the sea and some even run onto the beach. Albariño’s thick skins give texture and character and protect the grapes from sea breezes. Peach and citrus aromas, textured pear and apple fruits on the palate and a lemony crisp finish with a slightly salty tang.
Mundo de Yuntero Verdejo-Sauvignon BIO, La Mancha, Spain — €13.99
Verdejo is the classic white grape of Rueda and here it is blended with Sauvignon Blanc — a typical blending partner. This is biodynamic and organic and a great example of the crisp white wines to be found in Spain: floral and citrus aromas with a herbal touch, textured and lively on the palate with a pleasing bitter lemon tang on the finish.
La Granja Verdejo-Viura, Castilla Y Leon, Spain — €9.99
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This is my go-to Spanish white under a tenner. A blend of Rueda’s Verdejo and Rioja’s Viura, this tastes a lot more than it costs. Pear and floral aromas, zingy and crisp, lemon verbena touches and bitter lemon tanginess on the palate, crisp and fresh — perfect for fish or light pasta dishes. The Granja red is also worth a try.
Coto de Imaz Rioja Reserva 2016, Spain — €19.99
I last featured this wine about five years ago so it is high time I mentioned it again as it is one of the most reliable and classic Riojas on the market and very fairly priced. Aromas of red and black fruit with classic Rioja cedar and vanilla aromas, fruity and layered with elegance and a touch of spice on the finish.
Albet i Noya 'El Fanio' Xarel-lo, Penedés, Spain — €20.99
Albet i Noya is a famed organic producer in Penedés who appears here often but I’ve not featured this wine before. From Xarel-lo vines that are 65 years old, biodynamic and organic and fermented in concrete eggs with long lees aging. Floral and lemongrass aromas, textured and complex with a sappy, pleasing roundness on the palate and a lingering zesty fresh finish
Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva 2011, Rioja, Spain — €19.95
This is reduced from €33 for Spanish Food and Wine Week so is a bit of a steal. I have featured the standard Reserva here before but this is more layered and elegant. Concentrated red and black fruits, vanilla and coconut aromas with spice notes, rich and complex on the palate with lingering sweet plums and spice-infused blackberries and a long finish.
Redbreast Single Pot Still PX Edition, 46% ABV, 70cl — €80
I know I mentioned another Midleton product recently but this new Redbreast expression has to be featured, especially as it is a limited edition. Redbreast in all its forms has a high Sherry cask finish but I love when they go full Sherry like in the Lustau Edition and here where the whiskey spent 12 months or so in PX casks.
Pedro Ximinez is the rich sweet sherry made from sun-dried grapes so expect a sweeter tone on this. Aromas of dried fruits, prunes, and liquorice: creamy and fruity on the palate with a lovely spice kick and lingering sweet marzipan notes on the finish. Gorgeous.
