Restaurant review: Lunch from a master craftsman in Galway and two other supremely satisfying dining destinations
Kappa Ya Japanese restaurant, Middle Street, Galway: run by Junichi Yoshiygawa — a master craftsman
My visit to Galway lasted 27 hours. It was short and sweet but also tangy, savoury, spiky, delicate and indulgent with some bitter and sour touches added in to keep things interesting.
I managed to pack in pints, fine wines, two lunches and a dinner and manfully fought urges for ice-cream (Murphys and Scrumdiddlys), Pizza (the world-beating Dough Bros) and Sushi. The reason I didn’t visit Yoshima in Wa Café for sushi was because I was saving my palate for Kappa Ya, the almost mythical elusive Japanese restaurant run by Junichi Yoshiygawa on Middle Street beside the excellent Thomas Woodberrys Wine emporium.
- Kappa Ya Japanese Restaurant, 4 Middle St., Galway, Tel: 091-865930.
- Instagram: @kappaya.galway
- 1pm-5.30, 7-8.30pm Daily.
Almost every Galwegian I've consulted over the years has proclaimed Kappa Ya their favourite lunch spot. The official opening time is midday but 1pm is more realistic as Junichi needs time to get himself organised — largely because he does everything himself. His facebook page will often have short notices saying things such as ‘closed today as I need to make tofu’ or ‘we are out of Teriyaki sauce and Sushi ginger so we will open tomorrow’. This might sound like a bad thing: it is not, it is the sign of a master craftsman who refuses to compromise — it is us who need to compromise.
So on a sunny Wednesday lunchtime in August I hung out in Charlie Byrne’s bookshop, keeping an eye on Kappa Ya out the window to wait for the red Nobori (flag) to fly — Junichi’s signal that he is open.
It was so worth the wait. I considered the Miso Soup and the selection of Sushi Rolls but I was too hungry so ordered a large Don (Rice Bowl). I chose the classic Katsu-Don (€15.80) with breaded Pork Cutlet with sweet marinated onions and eggs in a Dashi Sauce. The rice had just a hint of bite to allow it to stay true to itself and absorb the Dashi better, the onions were sweet and packed with umami, the eggs were allowed to cook in the sauce and the perfectly tender pork was crispy and delicious.
I washed this down with a glass of fruity, edgy Sake from L’Aube Les Larmes (€9) and thankfully had some left to match the bonus plate of that day’s Mackerel — served as delicate tender Sashimi and also marinated and fried (Nanban-zuke). I can’t think of a more perfect lunch and I can’t wait to get back to have dinner.
- Rúibín, 1 Dock Road, Galway. Tel: 091399200 ruibin.ie
- 12-11pm, Mon-Sat.
Speaking of perfect lunches, I had arrived in Galway the day before and headed straight to Rúibín on the Galway Docks. This used to be Sheridans on the Docks where Enda McEvoy first came to the attention of the Michelin Guide. (Enda opened a new spot called Éan Bakery/Wine-Bar/Restaurant this year and my colleague, Joe, will be reviewing that soon.)
Chef Alice Jary and her partner Richard opened Rúibín in 2019 and have thrived in spite of the difficulties of 2020-20. My delectable sweet-tangy Fried Chicken (€13) in a honey butter sauce came with perfect sticky rice, daikon salad and a soft egg which brought all the flavours together somehow. My guest’s substantial tasty salad of Grilled Summer Squash, Goat’s Cheese and heritage Tomatoes in a Shiso Vinaigrette topped with a handful of pistachio (€14) was also excellent. A brownie and some glasses of Verdejo brought the bill to €52.
- Kai, 22 Sea Road, Galway. Tel: 091 526003. kairestaurant.ie
- 10-3pm, 6.30-9.30 - Tues-Sat. 12-3pm Sunday.
I’m running out of space to tell you about the joys of Kai — I don’t think I could ever go to Galway without a visit. The menu has a familiarity about it (in a good way) and Jess Murphy’s spiky flavour flashes always leave me wanting more and more. In short, I had pungent anchovy and garlic led Bagna Cauda with homemade crackers, a whole, large, indulgent, buttered lobster for a mere €36 while my guest ate delicate dill scented crab and flaky Hake and Clams with a lively Saffron Aïoli. Glasses of Mas-Candi ‘Desig’ Xarel-lo from Penedés washed it all down, and Chai Latte Ice-Cream and Raspberry-Gin Sorbet left us thoroughly sated for €122.50.
I left Galway with the taste of Bloody Red Ale (brewed by Galway Hooker) for the Kings Head lingering on the palate. It tasted bitter, sweet and satisfying — the same feelings I always have as I finish up a visit to the city of the tribes.
