Wine with Leslie: Some wines that 'taste posh' — and are delicious as well
Does deliciousness matter more than complexity and typicité in a wine? Picture: Leodanieli.
So I’ve been thinking. Does deliciousness matter more than complexity and typicité in a wine? And does it matter that a wine tastes of its expensive self rather than its region?
I’m probably showing my age with these questions. I know some serious and committed wine folk (mostly younger than me) who are seeking out rare amphora-fermented wines from Georgia with the same zeal as I sought out Cru Classé Bordeaux when I was their age. They won’t refuse a glass of Lynch Bages 2000 but I think the shock of the new holds more appeal.
Recently I was invited to an online tasting for the launch of the 2019 vintage of the top wines of Bibi Graetz, the superstar Tuscan producer. Graetz’s 'Colore' will cost up to €400 if you can find it and his Testamatta is €150 — both are from old, lovingly cared for vineyards, and made with minimal intervention. Testamatta’s 2018 vintage was awarded 100 points (yes, out of 100) by a well-known critic in Britain, but I’m not sure that any wine can be perfect, and to say so puts one on the path towards hubris.
I did think Testamatta and Colore tasted delicious, packed with plush black and red fruits — they tasted expensive, they tasted posh, but I didn’t think they tasted Tuscan — certainly not like any Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano or Brunello di Montalcino I’ve experienced.
And you know, this doesn’t matter to most people, certainly not to Bibi’s fans who are, as they say, legion. But with a fine Bordeaux, Burgundy, or Barolo I can compare it mentally to previous vintages of that wine or wines from neighbouring vineyards or villages by the same producer or their competitors, and this adds infinite layers of pleasure to the experience. But, like I say, I’m probably old.
If you would like to try Testamatta and then email to tell me how wrong I am, it is stocked by StationtoStationwine.ie, BlackrockCellar.ie and Deveneys of Dundrum among others — or contact their importer WineLab.ie. Graetz also makes good wines at more pocket-friendly prices which I will review soon.
Selections here all taste of their region — five French classics and one from Rioja, a region that was developed by French wine merchants in the 19th century. Three are from Whelehans Wines in Loughlinstown (nationwide delivery) which stocks wine from all the best regions and has a particularly good range from France, many imported by themselves.
Stockist: Whelehan’s Wines whelehanswines.ie
This is reduced from €17 for August and is a steal at this price. Alavesa is the smallest of the three Rioja sub-regions which are often equal in quality to Rioja Alta. This is a Joven (lightly aged) Rioja packed with ripe soft fruits and a perfect summer wine amenable to being served cool. Soft blackberry and blueberry aromas with a hit of blueberry muffin creaminess, fruity and juicy and packed with pleasure.
Stockist: Tesco
Saint-Chinian is considered by many to be the finest red wine Appellation in the Languedoc although at 3000ha it covers all prices and quality levels. This is a solid example at the entry-level end of the scale - pouring a dark black with red edges, aromas of prunes and cooked plums, crunchy red and black fruits on the palate with a smoky edge, and a good balance between fruit and acidity.
Stockist: Tesco
Made from 100% Picpoul — an ancient Languedoc grape that retains acidity however hot it gets in its Mediterranean home. From a coastal region with sea breeze influences and oyster and mussel farms all around so inevitably a perfect match for moules-frites or oysters (grilled, deep-fried po’boy style, or au naturel). This has soft apple, herbal, zesty aromas and is packed with lemony freshness with a pleasing saline hit on the finish.
Stockist: Whelehan’s Wines whelehanswines.ie
This is reduced by €2 this month and is just one many wines from this top producer imported exclusively by Whelehan’s. From three plots of old vines on 1.4ha, this has peach and ripe pear aromas, creamy, velvety, soft white fruit flavours with lovely weight and complexity. The Saint Vérans from this producer are also excellent combining rich fruits and herbal notes.
Stockists: Little Green Grocer Kilkenny, Vintry Rathgar, Mary Pawle Wines Kenmare marypawlewines.com
Bonne Tonne makes delicious Morgon Beaujolais Cru but also grows excellent Chardonnay — I like to see Beaujolais producers label their blanc as Beaujolais rather than the easier to sell Bourgogne Blanc. Complex, layered aromas of quince and lychee; textured on the palate with creamy white peaches, soft apples and lingering, citrus-infused, lemon spongecake notes on the finish.
Stockist: Whelehan’s Wines whelehanswines.ie
The village of Savigny is just to the north of the city of Beaune and a great source of silky fragrant wines capable of ageing for a decade or two. Earth-tinged red fruit aromas with black cherries and hints of liquorice — creamy and satiny on the palate with layers of textured red and darker fruits and the poise and balance of a prima ballerina.
Stockists: Bradleys, Matsons, Ardkeen, World Wide Wines, CarryOut, Number 21, Celtic Whiskey Shop and via www.CraftBeersDelivered.com/
An unexpected benefit of the various lockdowns in the past 18 months is that we have all gotten very used to having nice things arrive at our door. ‘Craft Beers Delivered’ is from Celtic Whiskey Shop of Dawson St, Dublin, and New Street, Killarney. They stock a large selection of Irish and Imported Craft Beers including Galway Bay, Whiplash, Wicklow Brewery — and my old favourite Dungarvan.
This gorgeous zippy Pale Ale is brewed with Simcoe, Citra, and Amarillo and packed with herbal, citrus aromas: a crisp, refreshingly bitter and zingy palate, and a long hoppy finish perfect for hazy August days.
