The Irish foodie comeback: ‘It’s not how you fall, it’s how you get back up again’

Our restaurateurs reflect on a gruelling year with Joe McNamee — and look ahead to 2021

Aishling Moore, head chef and
co-proprietor, Goldie, Cork.

Aishling Moore, head chef and co-proprietor, Goldie, Cork

On Saturday, March 14, we had loads of cancellations (10 parties of two), all scared to come out. I didn’t even cook. I walked around the city; it was really quiet, really scary. We were only open five months, but I believed it was right to close, though I didn’t think it would be four months.

It was heartbreaking. I spent a couple of weeks trying to get my head around that alone, but I’d been hell-for-leather for six or seven months and probably needed that break; it was good to start taking better care of myself.

I took my dog for lots of walks. I cooked my mum and my brother three meals a day, something I hadn’t done in years. I did a lot of sleeping. I gardened, foraged.

I definitely missed working with people and it brought home that what I love about the restaurant is taking care of people — I get such a kick out of it.

I know it’s such a cliche, but the year has been an absolute rollercoaster; so many ups and downs. The lowest time was closing again for the second lockdown. We were so new the first time we closed, I was afraid we would be forgotten, but the support when we reopened was unbelievable; so many new diners, as well. There are certain times when everyone is working so well together, it’s just like an orchestra and we’d got back there, so having to close again was really difficult. We have a great team, really adaptable, but I’m learning to live week to week now, just making the best of each day.

Damien Grey, head chef/proprietor, Liath, Dublin

It was like all the doomsday movies you’ve ever seen unfolding at once; a huge, mixed bag of emotions; a constant rollercoaster. I shut down before the Government made us for health-and-safety reasons, but I couldn’t sit back, otherwise I was going to lose everything.

I’d seen [world-famous, Chicago-based, Michelin three-starred restaurant] Alinea doing take-home meals, dropping standards down many levels and going into survival mode.

I’m a firm believer that copying is not being creative. They were doing a click-and-collect, readymade dinner to take home, but I thought, realistically, my style of food was not going be suitable for that and I didn’t want to drop standards, so I slowly developed Liath-to-go food boxes — we do 90% of it and you finish the rest at home.

We were one of the first to do this anywhere in the world. We got a lot of attention from Michelin [as Liath has a Michelin star], first referencing Alinea and then Liath underneath it. So many people told us it was the highlight of their week, which was lovely to hear.

Covid took me to a place I’ve not been before, in terms of questioning my career and valuing myself less, but I realised there’s nothing wrong with my job or me: I’ve just got to think smarter, box clever. It was a good lesson.

In the second lockdown, the market dictated there was going to be a serious overload of finish-at-home kits, so we started doing street food, one-dish wonders, ridiculously tasty; not pretty, but accessible to everyone.

I don’t feel it’s safe enough for my staff and customers to warrant opening, so we’ll remain closed for December and reassess again in January. Right now, we’ll continue with the street food and Liath-to-go.

We’ve had to fight so hard, and I’ve no backers: It’s just myself. And it’s been like a game of chess, constantly looking at the next move. I’ve started playing chess again this year, for the first time since I was a kid. Covid has been my opponent and has had me in check a few times, but I’ll checkmate Covid in the end.

Jess Murphy, head chef/co-proprietor, Kai, Galway

Me and [husband and business partner] Dave [Murphy] just made it back to Ireland from New Zealand as the first lockdown hit and had to self-isolate for two weeks, so I did a lot of eating. I found myself going down the rabbit hole of sourdough, which was pretty cool, but then I got sick of it; you bake loaves and then you eat them, which was a vicious cycle. I gave everyone who needed it a hand. Put on my cheesemonger’s cloak and went into Sheridan’s [cheesemongers] and Gannet Fishmongers were completely up the walls —from selling 50 boxes a week online to 114 in a single day— so I did packing, filleting. My claim to fame is that I packed Neven’s [Maguire] box once.

We’re all in the same boat — it completely wiped out a year of trading — but the main concern is all the staff are happy and healthy and everyone is getting looked after.

I’ve been working 12 to 15 hours a day since I was 16, so it’s really made me reflect on work-life balance. I’m walking 10km every day and I’ve lost two stone. I’d like to think positive, especially with news of the vaccines. I started Kai in 2010, in the recession, but I had no doubt about the Irish fighting spirit and we’ll have the craic again. We just have to let the people at the top do their jobs. It’s not how you fall, it’s how you get back up again.

Ahmet Dede, head chef/co-proprietor, Dede at the Customs House, Cork

We had planned on opening the new restaurant on St Patrick’s Day, so everyone was in shock. ‘What are we going to do?’ I was walking, hiking, running, swimming, foraging, and meeting lots of locals and they were saying, ‘We miss your food, your cooking. Why don’t you do a takeaway?’ We opened in the second week and the reaction was massive.

Then, I opened the deli and it was flying out the door. It was amazing; so busy. It was very different from what I did before. It kept us positive, active, and it was very good for the community of Baltimore. We’ve become like a family.

Covid-19 had a massive impact. It changed me a lot. I’ve always worked in fine dining, aiming for a certain level and concept. Obviously, we wanted to survive, business-wise, but I put my ego in a box and cooked the best, most delicious food, without it being fine dining.

The worst was when my mum lost her brother and sister in the same week to coronavirus. Then, two days later, my father was in ICU for five days with it and they believed he would die.

After, I learned my mother had the virus, but kept it to herself because she didn’t want me [and my brothers in Holland] coming [back to Turkey]. She was saying, ‘Don’t, the doctors say it’s not a good time to come.’ I didn’t want to do anything else, just be with her. It was very, very difficult. I was broken for weeks after, but the cooking actually saved me and still does: I forgot for a few hours. They recovered and are much better, but what will the effect be in the longer term? Still, they are alive and that’s great.

I used to be doing 18-, 19-course tasting menus, but when we reopened I was doing three or four courses, good food, drink; nice, genuine service, family-style, in a comfortable, safe environment and people loved it.

My plan was a fine-dining restaurant; Turkish-inspired dishes using West Cork ingredients, and my goal was to get a Michelin star straight away this year. That’s changed. A Michelin star will come, but I am not chasing it. I want to be happy with myself and my food, continue working with my West Cork producers and farmers and friends, and the rest will fall into place when the time is right. It’s been probably the most difficult year we will ever face in our entire lives. Whatever happens next, I am ready.

Anne Zagar and David Devereaux, chefs and co-proprietors, #51, Cork

A: We were five weeks newly opened and even though it had been a terrible month (bleak, horizontal rain), we had momentum, people coming back, already requesting favourite dishes.

D: That seems like a lifetime ago now.

A: Our landlord is a super guy. Without him, we wouldn’t be here today. He was very generous during lockdown. We all agreed: Lock up straight away, stay safe, and see you on the other side. We took a break, developed menus, sat in our backyard, had a few drinks.

D: And Anne became pregnant. She’s due in March!

A: We’re thrilled. I’ve always had images of my kids doing homework in my restaurant, even though we’re probably a few years from homework.

A: I think Covid has put more of an importance on quality and locality of the provenance of locally sourced products. It’s always been part of my ethos, but now more than ever.

People value restaurants and cafes more now. It’s much more of a luxury to go out to eat. We noticed, during the summer, when we re-opened, we had people dining outside in the rain. They were just thankful to be there, very appreciative.

A: We are looking at occasional evening openings, a supper-club idea. You can only stretch brunch and lunch so far, but this will let us ‘play’.

D: We can push the boat out, but we want to have a bit of life-work balance, with a young family coming, but we like that atmosphere of a nighttime restaurant and our kitchen is about being progressive and always developing and this will help us do that.