O’Mahony’s: The new Cork restaurant everyone is talking about reviewed

In 2003, a bypass finally and forever diverted the bulk of traffic between Dublin and Cork from the infamous bottleneck that was Watergrass-hill.

Ever since, the village, just 15 minutes drive north of Cork City, is, for most travellers, little more than an evocative signpost fleetingly glimpsed from the motorway (in Irish, Cnocán na Biolraí, meaning ‘hill of the watercress’, or, in English, the nominative haiku, ‘water, ‘grass’, ‘hill’).