Wine with Leslie Williams: The two very distinctive categories of wine

The world of wine falls into two very distinct categories — the big brands making easy drinking accessible wines to please as many as possible, and the smaller producers that make wines in their own way and as best they can but with little or no thought to what the market wants — if they like it, why shouldn’t others?

Lisa, my knowledgeable friend that runs the excellent Dublin dining website www.allthefood.ie regularly tells me that she is utterly mystified that I can like both styles of wine.