Leslie Williams: A profile of a great wine house
A profile of a great wine house this week. FE Trimbach in Alsace dates from 1626 and has passed fairly seamlessly through the generations, despite that region’s tumultuous history ping-ponging between France and Germany. Jean Trimbach from the 13th generation visited recently — the 14th generation is already in the business and the 15th is on the way.
Alsace is arguably the most underrated and best value of all France’s fine wine regions although Irish consumers seem to see the Germanic- shaped bottle and recoil, traumatised perhaps by real or genetic memories of Liebfraumilch. Yet Trimbach and other top producers such as Hugel, Schlumberger and others make elegant restrained dry wines perfect for summer days or fine dinners.
Ask most wine writers to name the best white wine in the world and Trimbach’s Clos Sainte Hune is likely to feature. Just 8,000 bottles are produced from a 1.67 hectare plot in the Grand Cru of Rosacker. Stocked by every three-star Michelin restaurant in France and as praised as any Montrachet, yet it can be bought for €150 to €160, a literal fraction of what an off-year Le Montrachet would cost. The 2009 Clos Ste Hune has pristine elegant Mirabelle plum flavours with touches of stone, pine and spice, the 2011 is a little riper with more concentration. Clos Ste. Hune’s baby brother Cuvée Frédéric Emile (€55) tends to have broader rounder flavours but can be almost as fine and ages for decades.
Pinot Gris from Alsace can be a touch flabby but the Trimbach version is ‘made in a Riesling frame’ as Jean put it — those floral stone fruits make for an excellent food wine — risotto, grilled fish, a large bowl of mussels.
Due to some structural changes with Trimbach’s importer Gilbeys (now owned by C&C) the brand is not as ubiquitous as it used to be but I suspect it will make a strong comeback now that things are back on track — the wines are just too good. Greenacres in Wexford have a Trimbach special sale on at the moment with reductions on everything from the pinot blanc to vendages tardives and Clos Sainte Hune. It stocks a few vintages of Clos St Hune and has the new 2012 at €145.
BEST VALUE UNDER €15
Lidl
Lidl has an Italian sale on at the moment and a week or two ago I mentioned its Morellino di Scansano and Vernaccia di San Gimignano. This Barbaresco is also well worth trying. It has ripe red fruit aromas, structured light, dried raspberry fruits on the palate and a hit of chewy red currants on the finish.
Lidl
I also spotted two Croatian wines in Lidl this week, a bit late perhaps but perfect if you are having World Cup withdrawal symptoms. There is a floral, fruity grasevina white on sale and this plavac mali — a grape closely related to zinfandel or primitivo. This is packed with ripe juicy plum fruits and has very good concentration for the price point.
O’Briens
There are hardly any Alsace rieslings under €15 so of course I went searching in Germany. Germany riesling is frequently off-dry and lower in alcohol but this is 11.5% and has pleasing floral stone-fruit aromas, a slightly off dry attack but a crisp finish. Like the Trimbachs, the Lingenfelders are also the 13th generation making wine in the same place.
BEST VALUE OVER €15
Greenacres, Jus de Vine, 64 Wines, Donnybrook Fair, McHughs, Whelehans
Pinot blanc is yet another mutation of pinot noir and Trimbach’s version has always been a favourite. This is actually a mix of pinot auxerrois and pinot blanc and has ripe fresh pear and apple aromas with a hint of smoke, citrusy on the palate with fresh bright acidity.
Bradleys, Ardkeen, Wine Centre, Whelehans, On The Grapevine, Greenacres
While I’ve lauded the big brother rieslings in the Trimbach range above don’t dismiss its entry level riesling which I consider a benchmark for the grape. Citrus and stony mineral aromas, dried citrus fruits on the palate, textured and ripe with beautiful purity and freshness.
Bradleys, Ardkeen, Wine Centre, Whelehans, On The Grapevine, Greenacres
I realise lychee and rose-petal scented gewurztraminer is not to everyone’s taste but I adore its opulent expressiveness. This is floral aromatic and gorgeously scented with pure ripe fruits and a just a touch of residual sugar (8.9g per litre). Try with aromatic cheeses or with lobster.
Contact Leslie Williams at wine@examiner.ie
