Leslie Williams: Wines that work with a bit of chill should you need to keep cool
This column has been extolling the virtues of Beaujolais for a couple of years now and I’m pleased to see that I am not alone as in volume terms Beaujolais sales were up 76% in 2017 and in value terms up over 95%. The bulk of sales were from Cru villages, led of course by Fleurie which I suspect many don’t even realise is from Beaujolais.
Technically Beaujolais is part of greater Burgundy and as (Pinot Noir) Burgundy prices continue to climb I’m pleased to see Beaujolais is being seen as a worthy alternative. In general terms Gamay is not as complex as Pinot Noir at the upper end but at the mid and lower tier I would posit that Gamay is actually far more reliable.
Regional Burgundy under the Coteaux Bourguignons AOP is often sourced in Beaujolais (at least in part) and remember that the bulk of Bourgogne Blanc is Chardonnay grown in Beaujolais — hence if a producer is selling his wine as Beaujolais Blanc it is virtually always worth buying — eg, the Jean Paul Brun version from Wines Direct.
Recent vintages have also been fairly kind to the region with the 2015 particularly good if you spot any on shelves.
Most Beaujolais is best drunk within three to four years but the better Cru wines can happily age for a decade or two.
If you are looking for a little more depth seek out wines from Morgon (especially from the sub-region lieu-dit Cóte de Py or Les Charmes) or better still Moulin á Vent generally seen as the very best of the ten Crus. Fleurie is almost always charming as is Brouilly and Cótes de Brouilly which are generally softer and broader flavoured while there can be lovely finesse in the wines from St Amour, Juliénas and Regnié. Chiroubles and Chénas are rarely seen here and can have a little more structure while retaining a fruity charm.
Beaujolais Nouveau sales have fallen off in recent years but this ultra young style can still be a fun drink and there are good ones out there that are a world away from the fizzy raspberry juice that turned people off the region — best to wait until November when the likes of L’Atitude in Cork and Greenman and 64 Wine in Dublin will have it by the glass.
My suggestions below will all work with a little bit of chill on them should you need to keep cool.
BEST VALUE UNDER €15
Dunnes Stores nationwide
Dunnes Stores imports a few wines from the négociant house of Pierre Ponnelle. There is also a decent Fleurie that was on offer at €14 when I filed this column. Lighter in style than some of the better wines here this has bright juicy red fruit aromas with a pleasing floral kick, darker fruits come through on the palate, crisp and fresh and best served at around 10 Celsius.
Aldi
Both of the discounters usually have at least one Beaujolais or Beaujolais Cru in stock (Lidl have a decent Fleurie at €9.99 that may still be in stock). The super low price of this wine is slightly deceptive as it actually has some decent red fruits if not a massive amount of complexity and a pleasing juicy freshness — strictly a simple pleasures Beaujolais and best served at around 10 Celsius.
Cinnamon Cottage Rochestown, 1601, On the Grapevine, Selected Carry-Outs, Karwigs.
A random rosé inclusion this week just in case all the red wine this week is too much for you. Provence is the capital of rosé in France and has very much led the recent rosé revolution that has led pink wine sales to outsell white. This has a gorgeous salmon pink colour, juicy and fruity with crisp red fruits and a pleasing roundness. Serve well chilled.
BEST VALUE OVER €15
McHughs, Martins, Mortons Galway, Red Island, D6 wines, Jus de Vine, Coachhouse, Dalys Boyle
Lucien Lardy is a third generation winemaker with plots in a few locations in Beaujolais, notably in quality lieu-dits in Fleurie and in Morgon. Moulin á Vent is always a more age-worthy cru and I suspect this will develop further — dark, fruity aromas — almost pinot noir in character — bright and juicy but with earthy touches, beautifully supple and layered with a gorgeous fruity freshness.
Bradleys, Whelehans, 64 Wine, Clontarf Wines, Greenman, Independents
All Le Grappin wines are worth trying. This is sourced mainly in Regnié, one of the lesser known Crus, this is hand-harvested and whole bunch fermented in concrete vats using wild yeasts and with no added sulphur. Earthy, natural, textured, damson and blackberry fruits, light and fruity with a touch of pétillance and a pleasing purity.
Le Caveau, l’Atitude 51, Greenman Terenure.
Another producer with plots throughout the region — watch for his excellent Fleurie and definitely try his Nouveau next November. This is denser and darker than most Beaujolais and really shows off the Moulin à Vent terroir — supple ripe fruits, earthy and herbal while also fruity and full, blackberry, plum, and black raspberry flavours with an almost chocolaty character.
