Wine with Leslie Williams: Rare wine finds from Germany
Germany doesn’t feature on this page as often as it probably should but the reason is fairly straightforward – there just aren’t all that many German wines available here.
I have in the past focused on the Späturgunder (Pinot Noir) wines of Baden but this week I debut a couple of delicious Rieslings from the Mosel and the nearby Saar plus a fruity Pinot Noir from the Pfalz.
The Mosel is the most important wine river in Germany (in quality terms) and its steep river walls rise up 200m in places at alarmingly steep angles – far too dangerous for any machinery so they are worked entirely by hand - often with ropes tied around your waist to stop you tumbling into the river.
The south-facing slopes are best and they rather bake in the sunshine but the vines are then tempered at night by cool easterly winds.
The terroir here (particularly the slate soils) and in the side valleys of the Saar and Ruwer produces wonderfully textured and structured wines with the perfect balance of sweetness and acidity – many (including me) would argue that they are probably the finest white wines in the world.
Andreas Bender is a rising star young winemaker (early 30’s) who has recently been taken on by Wines Direct. Bender began with just half a hectare in the Mosel inherited from his father but has managed to increase that to 35ha by acquiring a selection of vineyards between the Mosel and the Pfalz.
Working these vineyards is not easy and many of the vineyards were acquired from neighbours or friends of his father whose own sons and daughters had no interest – there is a lot more money to be made as a banker or lawyer in Frankfurt or nearby Luxembourg.
The Dr. Wagner Saar Riesling below is technically dry but does have that delicious German Mosel/Saar richness mixed with minerality – surely one of the most appetising of all wine styles, even if it is a little out of fashion. This is just one of four wines from Wagner in Karwigs list – I’ll be seeking out the others very soon.
Except for the occasional appearance in Aldi or Lidl I don’t know of any decent German wines under €15 on the market here so if you know of any do email me. Lidl have a French wine sale on at the moment so that takes up my under €15 slot.
BEST VALUE UNDER €15
Stockist: Lidl
Coteaux Bourguignons is the generic name for red Burgundy that can be made anywhere from Auxerrois (Chablis land) to the south of Beaujolais.
This has lively light cherry and strawberry aromas and a pleasing light fruitiness with dried herb touches and a just a hint of earthiness.
Besides Incanta Pinot Noir from Romania this has to be best value Pinot Noir.
Stockist: Lidl
Fleurie is one of the 10 Cru villages of Beaujolais but has become so ubiquitous most people have forgotten (or never knew) its origin.
The best Fleurie has a floral character (unlike more muscular wines from Moulin à Vent or Morgon) and this has a touch of rose petal mixed with cherry fruits with richer plum flavours with a small hit of structure and complexity.
Stockist: Lidl
Made with grapes sourced from the Haut Côtes region — the high ridges above the Côte-d’Ôr which can sometimes produce rather light and under-ripe wines but thankfully here there is a decent amount of red fruit character with red currants and cherry skin flavours — this would work well lightly chilled.
BEST VALUE OVER €15
Stockist: Wines Direct Arnotts, Mullingar, winesdirect.ie
Andreas Bender is new to the Wines Direct list (and this page) and I think you will find this Pinot Noir a bit of a surprise given its ripe fruits, fuller than most of the Baden Pinots that I’ve mentioned in the past.
This has ripe berry fruit aromas, supple (almost luscious) dense earthy red fruits on the palate, and lingering complexity.
Stockist: Wines Direct Arnotts, Mullingar, winesdirect.ie
At just 11% ABV this is a perfect lunch wine — made with wild yeasts and minimum intervention this is delicious.
Fragrant honeysuckle and yellow apple aromas, mouth-filling textured white fruits and soft apples on the palate with a crisp stony edge on the finish. While this is definitely dry there is a hint of honeyed apples that lingers with the crisp acidity.
Stockists: Terroirs, Power & Co. Fine Wines, Karwigs Carrigaline
This estate was founded in 1880 and boasts many 50 year old vines — grapes are sourced from the prime lieu-dit site of Ockfener Bockstein.
At just 8% ABV this does have a little residual sugar but also wonderful lemony acidity. Honeyed apple and lemon curd aromas, ripe pear and apple-confit flavours, minerally lemony fresh on the finish.
