Wine

The word ‘organic’ has become almost magical, adding a sheen of quality and purity to just about everything. A good winemaker who goes organic should see an improvement in their wine quality but only if they were talented in the first place. Organic vineyards make up less than 3% of the world’s vineyards (Europe has around 8%, Austria can boast 15%) but this figure is growing. Yields will drop by at least 20% (and costs increase proportionally) but grape quality should definitely go up.

If your region is prone to certain diseases such as mildew (powdery or downy) going fully organic is not always practical or advisable. For example ‘organic’ copper sulphate can control mildew (as it does potato blight) but excessive copper in the soil is inadvisable and it could be argued that non-organic fungal steroids do less damage. Biodynamic farming (the provisional wing of organics that uses homeopathic remedies and a kind moon worship) is also growing and is practiced by many of the world’s greatest wine producers but it is still a tiny proportion of the whole. Biodynamic viticulture is based on an interpretation of some lectures given by the Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner (Steiner schools, etc) in the early 20th century and seems to work, but not in my opinion due to the severely diluted homeopathic-like treatments (no matter how much they are stirred to dynamise them), or the fact that there is dung and silica buried in the vineyard in a cow’s horn to ‘harvest cosmic forces’. I think biodynamics works because it is so hands-on, you need far more people in the vineyard who will get to know each vine personally — it is micro-management of the vines not biodynamic magic that makes the difference in my opinion. The magical thinking also includes a calendar that splits the days into fruit, flower, leaf and root days with certain jobs for certain days. A friend of mine farmed his garden successfully for a year using the calendar with excellent results but only later realised he was using the reverse calendar for the southern hemisphere.

Go figure.

Anyway it doesn’t really matter, the wine either tastes good or it doesn’t and all the wines I recommend this week taste very very good and this is because of the care put into making them.

BEST VALUE UNDER €15

Domaine Begude ‘Le Bel Ange’ Chardonnay, Languedoc, France — €13.56

I’ve praised the wines of Domaine Begude from near Limoux before — an excellent small family-owned organic estate in the foothills of the Pyrenees. This has a touch of Chenin Blanc (14%) to boost acidity and is from high altitude slopes. Bright pear and apple fruits, textured and fresh with a lovely purity and focus and a pristine fresh finish. On offer, down from €17.

Gérard Bertrand Château de la Grange, Fitou, France — €12.95

From a coastal area in the Languedoc (Aude) organically grown (as with all GB wines) this is a blend of 30% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 20% Carignan. Bright blackberry and redcurrant fruit aromas, juicy and fresh with good acidity and pleasing juiciness and a hit of structure on the finish — a bit of a bargain at this price (down from €17).

Fattoria San Lorenzo Marche Rosso “Il Casolare” 2014 — €14.95

Made with 50-50 Sangiovese and Montepulciano this is organic and biodynamic with low sulphur use so counts as 'natural’. Generously fruity and ripe on the nose (with earthy touches), warming and fresh with a fine purity and energy. A perfect summer wine, feel free to chill it down a little.

BEST VALUE OVER €15

Domino del Urogallo ‘La Fanfarria’ Blanco 2016, Asturias, Spain — €20.99

From a tiny wine region in Asturias in North-West Spain and made with the rare grapes Albillo and Albarín (no relation to Albariño). This is biodynamic, has no-added-sulphur and has a lively mineral and citrus nose with preserved lemons and sweet apple on the palate — elegant and complex with herbal touches and a dry clean finish.

Domaine Goisot Aligoté, Burgundy, France — €21.99

Aligoté is finally coming out of the shadow of Chardonnay and this is another pristine example. From a 25ha biodynamic estate in St Bris le Vineux (near Chablis) this estate was an organic viticulture pioneer in the region and converted in 1993. Complex dried apple and honeysuckle.

Domaine Bachelet Monnot, Maranges 1er Cru, Burgundy — €36.99

Founded by two brothers in just 2005 and already on tiny allocation such is the fame they have garnered. This is from a 3.5ha plot in the lieu-dit ‘Clos de la Boutière — aromas of cherry and red fruits, textured and complex with crunchy ripe fruits and lingering elegance with a hint of earth.