Restaurant review: Kieran’s Kitchen at The Roadside Tavern, Co Clare

I FIRST visited Lisdoonvarna in the early ’80s but if you’d subsequently put the place in a police lineup along with the Sahara Desert and New York City, I’d have been none the wiser, barely holding a one-in-three shot at correctly identifying the little town in West Clare — albeit based on the recollections of a teenager, bountifully blessed with all the blind self-absorption of that age.
Come to think of it, even locals probably struggled to recognise their hometown that weekend, swathed as it was in a moving carpet of hair, denim and old army jackets, the chosen uniform of the several thousands who flocked there for the Lisdoonvarna music festival, the same legendary gatherings famously celebrated in the eponymous Christy Moore song.