Here’s to summer: Leslie Williams’ best summer wines

Sat, 02 Jul, 2016 - 01:00

Leslie Williams

I will refrain from clichéd jokes about the lack of sunshine in an Irish summer because there are still warmer days and long evenings and the barbecue still gets used.

Yes, we suffer a little with showers and unseasonably cooler days but the late arrival of nightfall always seems to improve our moods, especially if there is a glass of fizz nearby or a smoky red to match barbecue meats.

All the wines suggested here have flavour — no watery Pinot Grigios or bland Merlots.

Sherry Cocktails

Cocktails are very much back in vogue and would need a whole feature of their own so I’m just going to remind you of the versatility of Fino Sherry.

While I love Fino chilled on its own, it is a bit of an acquired taste so try a 1:2 mix of Fino and Tonic with ice and a slice of lemon or try mixing with a good white lemonade and some mint leaves or with a splash of Grand Marnier and a dash of bitters or with some sweet Vermouth on ice.

Box

Champagne Soup (Punch) is an old cocktail but credit for this excellent version goes to chef Patrick Clement of Pallas Foods — I’ve recommended Aldi’s Champagne but this will also work with Cava (not Prosecco as the fizz is too light).

1 Ladle Cointreau (or Grand Marnier)

1 Ladle Simple Syrup

½ Ladle Lemon-Lime Juice

1 Bottle Veuve Monsigny Champagne (Aldi)

To make simple syrup, heat 250g of sugar with 250ml of water until dissolved.

This will keep for months in a sealed bottle.

To make the punch add the Cointreau and Simple Syrup to a large round bottomed bowl, next add the lime and lemon juice and mix well.

Tilt the bowl and gently pour in the Champagne.

Make a figure of eight with the ladle to mix gently.

This is quite addictive so consume with moderation!

Fizz

Sparkling wine and summertime — no further explanation required.

McGuigan Frizzante, Extra Dry, Australia - €12-14

(Tesco, SuperValu, Independents)

Most frizzante wines (e.g. Prosecco) have large ungainly bubbles but somehow McGuigan have managed to produce an inexpensive sparkler with its fizz elegantly streaming in tiny neat lines.

Light and dry with creamy lemon and apple flavours and a pleasing freshness.

Devaux Cuvée Rosé Champagne

(Bradleys, 1601, Florries Tramore, Green Man Wines)

Champagne suits every season but for me summertime is particularly suited to Rosé Champagne. Devaux is a grower run co-op and a Rosé specialist.

This has a lovely fine mousse, aromas of rose petals and red currants, a creamy soft attack on the palate and a crisp lemon peel dry finish.

White

I’ve gone with aromatic whites (rather than light simple Sauvignons or Pinot Grigios) as these will match food better, especially picnics and barbecues.

Torres Viña Esmerelda, Penédes, Spain - €13.99

(JJ O’Driscoll, Bradleys, O’Brien’s, Dunnes Stores; Ardkeen Stores)

A blend of Moscatel de Alejandria with a little Gewurztraminer, this is a wine I always feel that tastes best outside, especially with some spicy grilled fish. Aromatic with lychees and apricots, a ripe pear infused palate but with just enough acidity for antipasto or seafood.

Pazo Torrequintans Albariño, Spain - €12.65 (Tesco) Albariño is excellent with spicy food as well as seafood and this is a good inexpensive example with white peaches, lemon verbena and a fresh finish.
Mount Crawford Riesling, Eden Valley, Australia — €12 (O’Donovans)

I’m guessing this is a bin-end as it is a bargain price. Dry mineral, stony and apple flavoured with fine clean acidity.

Rosé

Rosé is still the quintessential summer wine and sales have been increasing — one in three wines sold in France is now Rosé.

While most wine retailers have a selection of Rosés, my advice is to head for O’Briens who have a “buy one, get one half-price” deal all summer.

They have around eight fine examples and below are three of my favourites.

Chateau de Sours Rosé, Bordeaux, France — €16.95

Merlot based and is a little richer than the other examples but still a very light pink colour with raspberry and cherry aromas and a refreshing dried red fruit character on the finish.

Chateau Riotor, Cotes de Provence, France — €16.95

From the rosé capital of the world with vineyards in sight of St Tropez — strawberry mousse aromas with elegance, depth and some lingering red-currants on the finish.

L’Ostal Cazes Rosé, Pays d’Oc, France — €14.95

From the owners of Ch. Lynch Bages this has raspberries and wild strawberry aromas and a floral edge, berries on the palate and a dry finish.

Red

Reds for summer drinking depend on context — a lightly chilled Beaujolais will refresh on a warm day but equally a full-bodied powerful Malbec is likely to be needed to counter the dry chilli rub on the pork ribs.

Don’t be afraid to lightly chill red wines to make them more refreshing.

Chateau Chatelard Fleurie Cuvée les Vieux Granits, Beaujolais, France — €20.30 (Karwigs)

Strawberry and blackberry aromas, supple and fruity and with a lovely mouth-feel and just a hint of structure. Serve on the cool side — around 14C or cooler