Cavan: MacNean House & Restaurant

WHAT is Neven Maguire doing right? After my third visit to MacNean House & Restaurant in ten years, I’ve learned to turn that question on its head. The fact is, Maguire is doing nothing wrong.

This chef and his restaurant — hidden in tiny Blacklion, Co Cavan — are a bona fide foodie phenomena. Others battled their way through recession by slashing prices and standards, but MacNean’s seems only to have improved. Dinner costs €72, Saturdays book-out months ahead, and customers travel from all over the island.