Wine: Bella Luna Pinot Grigio
O’Donovan’s is a family owned business with Gary as managing director and a couple of siblings also involved. There are now 16 shops from Mallow in north Cork to Carrigaline in the south and Midleton to the east of the city. The business was founded by Gary’s father who was a lifelong pioneer but clearly not one to impose such views on his customers.
The first shop opened in Douglas in 1980 and the chain has expanded steadily since. Asked whether he has ever thought about venturing outside of his native county, Gary gave me a wry smile and simply said “yes!”, so watch this space.
O’Donovans doesn’t import their own wine currently but buys mostly from independent importers with some wines exclusive to the chain.
Although the core range is the same in each shop I spotted some very interesting old Bordeaux wines which I intend returning to pick up once that Lotto win materialises. I recommend the Riverdale Midleton shop and either the Douglas Village shop or the Ballincollig one if you have a bit of spare cash to spend on wine.
But my main reason for visiting was to seek out bargains and I have recommended a few below that I think taste well above their price range. Also watch out for well-priced wines from Heartland in Australia, Luigi Bosca in Argentina and Jacquart Champagne is on offer at €29.99.
* For the diary: The inaugural Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine runs from May 3-6, 2013, and will include tastings from such well-known wine gurus as Jancis Robinson MW and Mary Dowey, to name just a couple. Booking on 021-4645777 or at www.litfest.ie
Bella Luna Pinot Grigio — €8.49
Stockists: O’Donovans, Independents
I realise that many Pinot Grigios don’t taste of a huge amount but sometimes that is entirely the point – especially if you are sitting in the sunshine like we had reason to do after Easter. This is light fresh and crisp with distinct lemon peel and yellow apple touches on the palate.
Bella Luna Primitivo — €8.49
Stockists: O’Donovans, Independents
The red companion to the wine above made from the local Primitivo grape which we now know is the same as Californian Zinfandel. This has cherries and red fruits on the nose with a hint of spice and a juicy pleasing finish. Perfect for tomato-based pasta sauces.
Brisa Vistamar Merlot 2011, Chile — €9.99 plus SB mentioned.
Stockists: O’Donovans, Vineyard Galway, Redmonds Ranelagh
I mentioned the Vistamar range a few weeks back — the Reserva Sepia range is particularly good but the basic Brisa wines offer good value and elegant fruit. This Merlot has more character than most at this price with some nice chocolate and plum flavours.
Quinta do Vallado Douro 2010 — €16.95-€17.95
Stockists: O’Donovans Cork, Searsons Dublin, Independents
A blend of grapes typically used in Port including Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) and Touriga Nacional. Prunes and black fruits on the nose with a dark fruit driven palate with good structure and length.
Epicuro Beneventano Fallanghina 2011 — €12.99
Stockist: O’Donovans
Historic grape variety from Campania near Naples that deserves to be better known. The grape may have been the basis of Falernian wine enjoyed in Ancient Rome. Bright citrus aromas with hints of orange peel and a lovely refreshing bite.
Comtes de Tastes Bordeaux 2009 — €11.49
Stockist: O’Donovans
Another example of inexpensive and tasty red Bordeaux. Solid plum and blackcurrant aromas with nice soft juicy stewed prunes and dark fruits on the palate with not a little depth. This has some chewy (but integrated) tannins so is best served with food.
