Under Ben Bulben...

THERE’S a brilliant photograph of Ben Bulben in Source Sligo.

Dominating the back wall of the restaurant, it casts the looming mountain — Yeats’s famous “bare Ben Bulben’s head” — as a dramatic backdrop to a simple tractor chugging along the sands.

It also sets the scene for this ambitious venture — a restaurant, wine bar, and cookery school sprawling over three storeys in Sligo town. Determined to source local ingredients, to stay on first-name terms with the person who caught its fish or reared its lamb, Source Sligo is at once a venue, an emporium, a manifesto.