Peach of a dish
This passionate restaurateur has combed the Sacramento area, the Central Valley and the Sierra foothills to connect with organic farmers and growers who still cultivate the old varieties some are heirlooms while others, like the exquisite Elberta, are only 140 years old.
Peach connoisseurs scour local farmers' markets during the stone-fruit season in July and August. Commercial varieties of peach are grown in 30 US states but two-thirds of the annual aggregate production comes from California.
Nectarines, named after the nectar consumed by the Olympian gods, the smooth-skinned fruit are actually classified as a sub-species of peach prunus persica var nucipersica.
Peach and nectarine trees are almost indistinguishable in leaf and flower and are only one gene apart the one that makes peaches fuzzy.
Apricots are the third stone-fruit of summer, and a really good variety is a wonderful thing. But when last did you taste a delicious fresh apricot, peach or nectarine?
Those little plastic baskets full of indifferent fruit at various stages of ripeness are everywhere and supposedly a bargain at around 3.49. I'd far rather have one perfect peach and pay the farmer a fair and decent price for nurturing it for me throughout the year.
The problem is that we no longer have a choice. The multiples have forced the farmers to abandon any variety that doesn't travel well or pass its shelf life test, hence many of the best cultivars have been grubbed out and are relegated to the few passionate hobby growers who can afford to grow for pleasure.
However, in little pockets around the world, gardeners are seeking out the old varieties of fruit and vegetables and growing them. In California, there is a growing demand for forgotten flavours and keen young chefs are liaising with specialist growers and highlighting heirloom varieties on their menus.
We've had two white peach trees on the south-facing wall of the cookery school dining room for a number of years. They are very productive though fragile. The white peach we have is Lord Napier, and Peregrine is a good outdoor yellow variety. Although the crop is not so prolific this year, there will be lots for desserts and pies. We use the slightly bruised ones to make delicious white peach juice for homemade bellinis, which are almost as good as the cocktail of the same name in Harry's Bar in Venice.
If you have a warm south-facing wall make a note now to remind yourself to plant a peach, apricot or nectarine in the autumn.
Recommended reading: Jane Grigson's Fruit Book, Penguin; Chez Panisse Fruit, by Alice Waters, Harper Collins; Bob Flowerdew's Complete Fruit Book, Kyle Cathie Ltd; and The Complete Book of Vegetables, Herbs and Fruit by Bob Flowerdew, Jekka McVicar and Matthew Biggs, Kyle Cathie Ltd.
This pastry is made by the creaming method so people who are convinced that they suffer from 'hot hands' don't have to worry about rubbing in the butter.
Serves 8-12
350g (12oz) butter
75g (3oz) castor sugar
3 eggs, preferably free range
500g (18oz) white flour, preferably unbleached
1kg (2¼lb) stone fruit apricots, peaches and nectarines, mixed
225g (8oz) sugar
3 tbsp flour or cornflour
Castor sugar for sprinkling
Softly whipped cream or crème fraîche
Tin: 10 inches (25.5cm) x 12 inches (30.5cm) x ½ inch (1cm) deep
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo 4.
First make the pastry. Cream the butter and sugar together by hand or in a food mixer (no need to over cream). Add the eggs and beat for a minute or two.
Reduce speed to lowest setting and mix in the flour.
Turn out onto a piece of floured greaseproof paper, flatten into a round wrap and chill.
This pastry needs to be chilled for at least an hour otherwise it is difficult to handle.
To make the tarts: Stone and slice the fruit into a bowl, sprinkle with sugar and flour and toss well. Roll out the pastry 1/8 inch (3mm) thick approx., and use about 2/3 of it to line a suitable tin. Fill the sugared fruit into the tart.
Cover with a lid of pastry, seal edges, decorate with peach shapes and pastry leaves. Egg wash and bake in the preheated oven until the fruit is tender and juicy, approx. 45 minutes to one hour.
When cooked cut into squares, sprinkle lightly with castor sugar and serve with softly whipped cream or crème fraîche.
THIS is my version of a tart I first tasted when I was a rather reluctant au pair in Besançon many years ago. It is now one of our favourites. Apples, pears, gooseberries, rhubarb and plums are also good, and the custard could be flavoured with a little cinnamon instead of vanilla, if you wish to ring the changes.
Serves 10-12
225g (8oz) plain flour
175g (6oz) butter
Pinch of salt
2 tsp icing sugar
A little beaten free-range egg or egg yolk and water to bind
6 tbsp apricot jam
Freshly squeezed lemon juice
8-10 fresh apricots
300ml (½ pint) cream
2 large or 3 small eggs
2 tbsp caster sugar
1 tsp pure vanilla essence
1 x 12 inch (30cm) diameter tart tin or 2 x 7 inch (18cm) tart tins with removable bases
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/regulo 4.
Make the shortcrust pastry in the usual way and leave to relax in a refrigerator for one hour. Roll out the pastry and line a tart tin with a removable base. Chill for 10 minutes. Line with kitchen paper and fill with dried beans. Bake blind in a preheated oven for 15-20 minutes. Remove the paper and beans. Paint the tart base with a little egg wash and return to the oven for three or four minutes. Leave to cool. In a small stainless steel saucepan, melt the apricot jam with a squeeze of lemon juice. Push the hot jam through a sieve and then brush the base of the tart with a little of this glaze. Halve the apricots and remove the stones. Arrange one at a time, cut-side upwards, inside the tart the apricots should slightly overlap on the inside. Whisk the eggs well, with the sugar and vanilla essence, then add the cream. Pour this mixture over the apricots and bake in the preheated oven for 35 minutes until the custard is set and the apricots are fully cooked. Brush generously with the apricot glaze. Serve warm, with a bowl of softly whipped cream.
Serves 6-8
1½ lb (700g) fresh apricots, or peaches or nectarines, or a mixture, stoned and cut into wedges (keep the juice)
5 tbsp granulated sugar
1 tbsp white flour
freshly grated rind of ½ lemon optional
110g (4oz) white flour
¾ tsp baking powder
¼ tsp bread soda
1 tbsp castor sugar
25g (1oz) butter, cut into cubes
125ml (4fl oz) buttermilk
1 tbsp granulated sugar
Tin: 1 pyrex pie dish, 1.2L (2pint) capacity
Put the sliced fruit in a bowl, add the sugar and flour, freshly grated lemon rind and a tablespoon of juice, toss well and fill into a pie dish. Preheat the oven to 400F/200C/gas mark 6. Next make the topping. Sieve the flour, baking powder and bread soda into a bowl, add the castor sugar.
Rub in the butter and bind with buttermilk until it just comes together. Drop tablespoons of the dough over the filling, doesn't matter if there are spaces, the dough will expand. Sprinkle with another tablespoon of sugar. Bake for 30-45 minutes or until puffed and golden. Serve warm with crème fraîche or softly whipped cream.
Gorgeous with home made Vanilla or Honey and Lavender Ice-cream
Serves 4
8 peaches
2 tbsp honey
2 tbsp lemon juice
25g (1oz) butter
Preheat the oven to 250C/475F/gas 9. Halve peaches and remove stones. Melt the butter, add honey and lemon juice. Spoon over the peaches and roast in very hot oven for 8-10 minutes. Serve peaches warm with softly whipped cream or crème fraiche.
Serve with glazed ham or bacon
10 peaches or nectarines
1 pint stock syrup
1 stick of cinnamon
1 chilli halved and seeded
1-inch piece of ginger sliced
6 cloves
2 slices of lemon
Cook the stock, spices, chilli and lemon together for 10 minutes.
Add the peaches or nectarines sliced into segments and cook covered in an oven for a further 10 minutes.
I love fresh apricot jam, it seems so luxurious to make it from the fresh fruit, this recipe was given to me by my friend Julia Wight.
Makes 2.7kg (6 lb) approx.
1.57kg (3½lb) whole fresh apricots (to yield 1.35kg (3lb) of fruit when stoned)
1.35kg (3lb) sugar
Juice of 2 unwaxed lemons
Halve the apricots and remove the stones, keep a few kernels to add to the finished jam. In a large bowl layer the apricots and sugar, finishing with a layer of sugar. Leave in a cool place overnight. Put the lemon juice in a large saucepan, add the fruit and sugar. (If the fruit is lacking in juice, you could add approx. 300ml (½ pint) water with the lemon juice).
Bring to the boil very slowly. Make sure that the sugar has all dissolved, then simmer for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Test for a set and allow the jam to cool slightly before potting. Add blanched and halved kernels half way through the simmering.
The Village Greengrocer, Castlemartyr, Co Cork: This shop on the N25 in Castlemartyr has developed a cult following. Sean and Dorothy go to extraordinary lengths to provide their customers with a huge selection of local and exotic fruit and vegetables. They had Carolina nectarines and Rojo peaches both Spanish varieties last week, and also have a new deli counter where you can buy salads, cooked meats or even have a plate made up of your choice. Tel 021-4667655.
The Apple Farm, Moorstown, Cahir, Co Tipperary: farm shop where you can pick your own strawberries and buy apple juice, mixed strawberry and apple juice, strawberry jam, plum jam, apple jelly all made with their own fruits and also 'bag in box' juice.
Forthcoming summer festivals with food markets:
Bray Town Festival: July 15-17. Live events, free music, fireworks and a summerfest food market opening on Friday 60 stalls with something for everyone.
JFK Dunbrody Festival, New Ross: July 22-24. Lovely event with food market along the quayside, with French and Irish traders.
Mitchelstown Good Food Festival : August 14. This will be the third year of this festival, which will be opened by Derek Davis. There will be marquees with food producers, and others with food demonstrations, craft displays and children's theatre.
For information on booking a food stall, contact Bill Power on 087-813611.
For your summer parties!
300ml (10fl oz) freshly squeezed orange juice
150ml 95fl oz) Peach Schnapps
1 bottle sparkling wine
1 peach
a few raspberries
mint leaves
Mix the orange juice and peach schnapps together, add the sparkling wine at the last moment, add thin slices of peach, a few fresh raspberries and some mint leaves.
Pour into chilled glasses and jugs, add ice if you wish.
