Kerala master class

OUR driver wended his way through the narrow bustling streets of old Fort Cochin. I had given him the address of Maria George, an Indian cookery teacher who had promised to teach me some Keralan dishes.

After several false attempts we arrived and peered hesitantly through the open door. We were shown up a dark and dusty timber stairs, where Maria was waiting to welcome us. Her kitchen was small and sparsely furnished. A wire grille and blue muslin curtain divide the functional area from the dining room. Simple wooden shelves held a variety of cooking utensils and pots.

The ingredients for the cooking class were beautifully arranged on the oil cloth covered table. Fresh ginger, shallots, chillies, curry leaves, some fresh seafish, a chicken and two spice tins. One with a variety of whole spices - cassia (as cinnamon is called in Kerala), cardamom, cumin, cloves; the other with a pungent selection of ground spices - turmeric, white pepper, coriander, cumin and chilli powder.