Pick of the crop

PICKING blackberries can be very rewarding, but you’ll need to get out there fast to catch the best ones.

Pick of the crop

There's something wonderfully comforting and soothing about wandering along a country lane eating blackberries from the hedges this year there is a truly prodigious crop, we've had a few wonderful blackberry picking expeditions and taught the children and indeed some uninitiated friends how to choose the best berries. In fact, I was amazed to discover how many 'grown-ups' didn't realise that its prudent to check the berries before you pop them into your mouth if the core is discoloured rather than pale and unblemished, it usually means that little crawly beasties have got there first, so it's best to discard those.

The berries seem particularly sweet and gorgeous this year. They are loaded with Vitamin C, fibre and folate and children love them. They particularly love picking them and should be encouraged.

So it's a good time to fill a flask and pack a little picnic so you can head off on an expedition after school. Bring lots of plastic or stainless steel containers, best if they are little and light so they don't seem too intimidating to fill. Practically speaking if they are too large the ripe berries will get squashed and damaged.

So what to do with all those berries? I adore a fresh blackberry sponge make a light whisked-up sponge, spoon softly whipped cream over the top, scatter generously with fresh berries and sprinkle with a little castor sugar.

If you collect a decent quantity, you'll probably want to make some jam. Blackberries are low in pectin, the agent that helps jam to set, so it's a good idea to partner the berries with cooking apples.

The first Irish cooking apples are in the shops; look out for Grenadier or Bramley Seedling and please make an effort to buy Irish apples. Its so difficult for Irish growers to compete with cheaper imports that if we don't actively support them there will be no Irish apples to buy. It's not just a question of loyalty, either, as they do have a unique flavour.

Back to the blackberries. If you have a glut you may also want to preserve some for later. They freeze really well.

If you have time and space, its really worth 'tray freezing' so all those little berries stay separate. A few small cartons close to the top of the freezer will come in handy to add to a sauce or gravy to partner a pheasant or a grouse if you are fortunate enough to have one later in the autumn.

A fistful of berries folded into a soft colcannon make a delicious accompaniment to a pan-grilled duck breast or a surprising addition to a traditional potato stuffing for a Michaelmas goose.

The lemon-scented leaves of Pelargonium Graveolens have an extraordinary affinity with blackberries, most garden centres have this variety which will grow in a pot but also over-winters outside in our garden in Shanagarry. We have numerous plants on window sills all over the school because we use it for a myriad of things.

Blackberry, apple and sweet geranium jam

Makes 9-10 x 450 g/1 lb jars approx

All over the countryside every year, blackberries rot on the hedgerows. Think of all the wonderful jam that could be made so full of Vitamin C! This year organise a blackberry picking expedition and take a picnic. You'll find it's the greatest fun, and when you come home one person could make a few scones while someone else is making the jam.

The children could be kept out of mischief and gainfully employed drawing and painting home-made jam labels, with personal messages like "Lydia's Jam keep off!", "Grandma's Blackberry Jam". Then you can enjoy the results of your labours with a well-earned cup of tea.

Blackberries are a bit low in pectin, so the apples help it to set as well as adding extra flavour.

2.3 kg (5 lbs) blackberries

900 g (2 lbs) cooking apples (Bramley, or Grenadier in season)

1.625 kg (42 lbs) sugar (use 2 lb less if blackberries are sweet)

8-10 sweet geranium leaves (Pelargonium Graveolens)

Wash, peel and core and slice the apples. Stew them until soft with 290 ml/2 pint of water in a stainless steel saucepan; beat to a pulp. Pick over the blackberries, cook until soft, adding about 145 ml/3 pint of water if the berries are dry. If you like, push them through a coarse sieve to remove seeds, (I don't bother). Put the blackberries into a wide stainless steel saucepan or preserving pan with the apple pulp and the heated sugar. Add the sweet geranium leaves to the fruit.

Stir over a gentle heat until the sugar is dissolved.

Boil steadily for about 15 minutes. Skim the jam, test it for a set, remove the geranium leaves and pot into warm spotlessly clean jars.

Cover immediately, label and store in a cool dry place.

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