The beloved country

Surprise surprise, but South Africa’s famous native grapes — Steen (Chenin Blanc) and Pinotage (South Africa’s own chameleon-like hybrid of Pinot Noir and Cinsault) were completely missing from a brace of bottles I sampled recently.

The beloved country

There's a pair from the cellars of Klein Simonsvlei which is imported by Newgate Wines and is widely available in Centra and SuperValu stores nationwide. Niel Joubert 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon is a WO Paarl and clocks in at 12.5% abv. There's substantial presence on the nose lots of dark fruit and berries which is delivered in the shape of a juicy, fruity easy-going medium bodied red.

Enjoy the good firm golden colour, and then sniff the Niel Joubert 2002 Chardonnay (right) and it suggests a good sting of the grape in question. On the palate it's a creamy, well-balanced new world Chardonnay with a fair bit of oak the only wobble being what tastes like an over-abundance of residual sugar. Those two wines will ultimately be coming in at two bucks dearer, but are available on special offer now at 9.99.

Check out the Kaapzicht Estate Merlot 2000 from Karwig's (on the Net at www.karwig-wines.ie). Bearing the famous WO of Stellenbosch, the keynote here is generosity. This fulsome, layered wine is the grown-up version of Merlot, and an antidote, if it were needed, to the bubble-gum character that you can sometimes get from the grape. While it may not have the breadth that you might expect, it certainly does have the depth of that formidable alcohol and fruit. With topnotes of stewed fruit and even jam, there is a pleasing firmness to the structure of alcohol and tannin below.

Apart from any other considerations, it suggest that (as the label says) it could well mature in the next few years but it is drinking well now as well.

Boschendal Lanoy 1999 (Karwig's) contains two grapes, rather unhelpfully unidentified on the label. But there is a distinct old world feel here a fruity, firm Cabernet as opposed to the vegetal Pinotage.

But better again is the Boschendal Grande Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (Karwig's). While I'm quite a big fan of the strict, mouthwatering sharpness of unoaked Sauvignon Blanc, the wood here does offer a subtle counterbalance to the wine, adding a softer more modulated dimension to the wine.

The big splash on the Irish market is being made by a pair of bottles under the Two Oceans label. Two Oceans Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2002 from the Stellenbosch and Durbanville regions, is more about creamy texture than it is about fruit, which is quite reserved. Its 63% Cabernet Sauvignon to 37% Merlot (looks like referendum results to me) have been quite tamed into an easy-drinking modern popular style.

The Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc 2002 is the palest gold in colour, suggesting delicacy and diffidence, and its key characteristics are its softness and lightness, crisp white linen with but a hint of the grassiness that you can get from the grape.

Both of the Two Oceans wines come in at an RRP of 8.99 a bottle at Superquinn, SuperValu, Londis, Molloys, Pettits and independent off-licences nationwide.

Next week, we'll begin the build-up to the Christmas season with a look at the forthcoming wine fairs that can help you choose the best for less.

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