Darina Allen: Three ways to cook chicken thighs, including an easy one-pot dinner

Drumsticks more flavourful than breast meat

A chicken thigh makes a perfect portion, it can be cooked whole, simply roasted with a sprinkle of flaky sea salt.

This week, three of my favourite ways with chicken thighs and an excuse to encourage all diehard white meat lovers to try brown meat, my own personal favourite.

Of course, I’ll eat white meat when I’m served it, but I would never voluntarily choose it. Drumsticks and thighs are so much more flavourful than breast meat, but you won’t believe me until you actually taste the difference. Did you know that chicken breast outsells chicken thighs by about 50% – recent data shows that chicken breast remains the most popular meat in Ireland.

However, apparently sales trends are shifting, with chicken thighs gaining popularity because of their flavour, versatility and excellent value.

Since early 2025, sales of chicken thighs have grown by 15.9% over chicken breast. Poultry meat accounts for 45% of all meat consumed in Ireland. White meat can so easily be dry, although brining it in salty water for just 30-40 minutes can make a huge difference to both the texture and flavour.

I really do love chicken but only eat it maybe once a week. Childhood memories of the plump, flavoursome chickens that Mummy reared on kitchen food scraps has made me pretty dissatisfied with the majority of chicken, most of which is intensely produced in conditions that certainly raise welfare issues. From egg to slaughter in 28-30 days as opposed to free-range organic birds that walk freely outdoors for 80-100 days, scratching in the grass which keeps them happy and healthy.

A bird reared this way obviously costs immensely more to rear than factory produced birds. The feed and hence the retail price must be €20 plus depending on the size. Difficult to countenance when one can buy an ‘orphan chicken’ for as little as €3.79 or €5.89 for an Irish free-range chicken.

These organic chickens are scarce; I buy from just a few organic and free-range producers. They sometimes don’t have enough birds to supply the demand in the Ballymaloe Cookery School Farm Shop also.

As a growing number of people search for nourishing wholesome healthy food, it’s vital that the food regulations are proportionate to the risk involved, to support rather than discourage the small poultry producers who are prepared and still have the skill to rear farmhouse birds.

They need encouragement rather than unnecessary impediments put in their way and mandatory clear and honest labelling.

Do I hear you saying, it’s all very fine for her, the perception may be that I can afford it. Well, let me tell you I can afford what seems like a luxury because I only buy whole chickens, complete with giblets.

I can get seven delicious meals from one plump chicken, using every single scrap, including the carcass and giblets plus the feet for stock.

• The crispy skin is super delicious.
• Chicken breasts. 
• Chicken tenders. 
• Chicken drumsticks. 
• Chicken thighs. 
• Carcass and neck, giblets and feet when I get them. One supplier told me that he wished every chicken had four feet, such is the demand for chicken feet for their high collagen content and the flavour they impart to the stock. 
• Chicken liver, loaded with vitamins A and B12 makes the most delicious chicken liver pâté which Myrtle showed me how to make years ago when I first came to Ballymaloe and we have been enjoying it ever since. 
• Chicken hearts and gizzards for kebabs or a Salade des Gésiers, so beloved in French bistros.

A chicken thigh makes a perfect portion, it can be cooked whole, simply roasted with a sprinkle of flaky sea salt. Can be bone in or out, with or without the skin, it’s not in the least bit difficult to remove the bone, (crack it with the back of a chopping knife and add to the stock pot).

The thigh can then be stuffed with whatever you fancy – a slick of pesto, some mozzarella, wrapped in pancetta. Dice into chunks, simmer gently, add some freshly chopped fresh herbs or spices, a splash of stock and cream to make a delicious sauce.

The skin peels off really easily, sprinkle it with flaky sea salt and crispy up in the oven at 120°C/Gas Mark ½ for 25-30 minutes.

So delicious that everyone will argue over it – use it to garnish your dish or just nibble.

For simple supper, just brush the chicken thighs with extra virgin olive oil, then lots of finely chopped fresh thyme or rosemary.

Season generously with flaky sea salt and fresh ground pepper. Add a generous dusting of smoked paprika or a few chilli flakes if you fancy.

Pop into the oven on a roasting tray, maybe add a few wedges but here are three chicken thigh recipes that will become firm favourites.

One-Dish Roast Chicken Supper with Thyme and Rosemary

recipe by:Darina Allen

Another lip-smackingly delicious dish that family and friends love me to cook for them. A whole roasting tray of crispy chicken, bacon and potatoes, perfumed with rosemary and thyme leaves.

Servings

10

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Cooking Time

 60 mins

Total Time

 1 hours 15 mins

Course

 Main

Ingredients

• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

• 500g streaky bacon lardons

• 2kg free-range, organic chicken thighs (drumsticks and wings can also be included)

• 2-3 tbsp thyme leaves

• 1-2 tbsp chopped rosemary

• 1.1kg (about 10 large) potatoes

• 250g onions, sliced

• 60-110ml hot chicken stock

• Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• To serve

• Green salad or tomato

• fondue or piperonata

• 1 roasting tin - 37 x 31cm or 2 small tins - 30 x 20cm

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 230°C/Gas Mark 8.

2. Heat the olive oil in a roasting tin, add the bacon and toss over a high heat until it is beginning to colour. Remove to a plate with a perforated spoon.

3. Season the chicken generously with salt and pepper.

4. Put into a large bowl and scatter with most of the thyme leaves and chopped rosemary, reserving some for the potatoes. (I sometimes add a sprinkling of chilli flakes or smoked paprika – it gets a brilliant reaction).

5. Toss well.

6. Peel the potatoes and cut into 1cm thick chips. Dry and season well with salt, pepper and the reserved herbs. Add to the bowl with chicken.

7. Drizzle with the bacon fat and olive oil from the pan and toss once again.

8. Scatter the onions and bacon over the base of the roasting tin(s). Arrange the chicken and potatoes haphazardly on top, making sure that the potatoes are popping up. Drizzle with a little more olive oil.

9. Roast for 45 minutes–1 hour or until the chicken is cooked through (the juices should be running clear if pricked with a knife) and the chips are crispy at the edges. (Organic chicken pieces are larger, so cooking time can be up to 1¼ hours.)

10. Add the chicken stock at the end if the dish needs a little more juice.

11. Serve from the tin, family style, with a good green salad and vegetables of your choice, such as tomato fondue or piperonata if you wish.

Ottolenghi’s Roast Chicken Thighs with Saffron, Hazelnuts and Honey

This has become a great favourite for supper parties.

Servings

8

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Cooking Time

 1 hours 30 mins

Total Time

 1 hours 45 mins

Course

 Main

Ingredients

• 8 large organic or free-range chicken thighs

• 2 onions, roughly chopped

• 4 tbsp olive oil

• 1 tsp ground ginger

• 1 tsp ground cinnamon

• A generous pinch of saffron strands

• Juice of 1 lemon

• 4 tbsp cold water

• 2 tsp coarse sea salt

• 1 tsp black pepper

• 100g unskinned hazelnuts

• 70g honey

• 1-2 tbsp rosewater depending on strength of rosewater

• 2 spring onions, sliced at an angle

• Sprigs of coriander

Method

1. Mix the chicken pieces with the onions, olive oil, ginger, cinnamon, saffron, lemon juice and water in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Leave to marinate for at least 1 hour, or overnight in the fridge.

2. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.

3. Spread the hazelnuts out on an oven tray and roast for 10 minutes, until lightly browned.

4. Chop roughly and set aside.

5. Reduce the temperature to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.

6. Transfer the chicken and marinade to a roasting tray just large enough to accommodate everything comfortably. Arrange the chicken pieces skin side up and put the tray in the oven for about 35 minutes or until nearly cooked. *(See note at end of recipe).

7. While the chicken is roasting, mix the honey, rosewater and nuts together to make a rough paste.

8. Remove the chicken from the oven, spoon a generous amount of nut paste on to each piece and spread it to cover. Return to the oven for 5-10 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and the nuts are golden brown.

9. Transfer the chicken, the juices and toasted nuts to a serving dish and garnish with the sliced spring onions and coriander leaves.
   
   * The organic chickens we use are larger; the thighs weigh about 185g and take approximately 1¼-1½ hours to cook.

Sticky Chinese Chicken Thighs

recipe by:Darina Allen

A perfect recipe to celebrate the Chinese New Year.

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 2 hours 0 mins

Cooking Time

 35 mins

Total Time

 2 hours 35 mins

Course

 Main

Ingredients

• 8 chicken thighs, skin on and bone in

• 4 tbsp hoisin sauce

• 2 tsp sesame oil

• 2 tbsp honey

• ½ tsp Chinese five-spice powder

• Thumb-sized knob of ginger, grated

• 2 garlic cloves, grated

• Bunch spring onions, chopped

• 50g cashew nuts, toasted or sesame seeds

• To serve

• Plain boiled rice

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6.

2. Arrange the chicken thighs in a large roasting tin and slash the skin 2-3 times on each thigh.

3. Mix together the hoisin sauce, sesame oil, honey, five-spice powder, ginger, garlic and some salt and pepper. Pour over the chicken and toss to coat – allow to marinate for 2 hours, or overnight if you have time. 

4. Roast in the preheated oven, skin-side up for 35 minutes, basting as least once during cooking. Sprinkle with toasted cashew nuts or sesame seeds and spring onions. Serve with rice.

Seasonal journal

RDS 2026 Agriculture & Rural Awards to Champion Sustainable Irish Agriculture & Rural Development

The call for entries has officially opened for the 2026 RDS Agriculture & Rural Awards, celebrating the outstanding contributions of individuals, farm families and organisations driving sustainable economic, environmental and social development across agricultural and rural communities.

The awards shine a spotlight on those making a meaningful impact on the sustainability and resilience of Ireland’s farming sector. Winners will be recognised for their dedication to innovation, community engagement and environmental stewardship.

The deadline to apply is March 13, 2026.

The awards are divided into three main categories designed to reward excellence across the economic, environmental and social pillars of sustainability:

1. Sustainable Farming Award

2. Sustainable Rural Innovation Award

3. Sustainable Rural Social Impact Award

rds.ie/rds-foundation/agriculture/rds-spring-awards/sustainability-awards

Rhubarb

Over the years I’ve written many columns extolling the virtues of rhubarb whose bright red stalks have been popping up in the rhubarb patch in the garden for the past few weeks. Rhubarb is a kind of enigma, a vegetable masquerading as a fruit, pink and tart, plentiful, versatile and perennial. So, once you plant a few stools in your garden or flowerbed, (why not) it will re-emerge in spring every year to delight you after the long winter.

Use in fruit compotes, pies, crumbles, in a sauce to serve with roast duck or pork, flavouring of sugar syrups. If you don’t have your own homegrown rhubarb yet, seek it out in a local shop or farmers’ market but best of all swing by a garden centre and buy a few plants for your garden.