Darina Allen: Recipes from the Irish Food Writers' Guild Awards winners

Catching up on all the gossip after a lengthy in-person absence

Darina Allen: summarises the action at the 30th annual Irish Food Writers' Guild Awards

There was a super buzz at the 30th Irish Food Writers Guild Awards at Suesey Street restaurant in Dublin‘s city centre recently.

The great and the good of the Irish food media were gathered together to celebrate the award winners: artisan producers, farmhouse cheesemakers, brewers, charcutiers, fish smokers; plus two remarkable organisations.

The inspirational and much-loved, Field of Dreams in Cork won the Community Food Award. This organic vegetable garden project used as a catalyst for learning and personal development has enriched the lives of the Cork Downs Syndrome community since 2017 when it was first opened.

Hero brothers Kevin and Sheamus Sheridan, who have done so much for decades to encourage, support and promote Irish farmhouse cheesemakers won the Lifetime Achievement Award. From one small stall in the farmers market in Galway to 21 retail outlets in less than 30 years is quite the achievement.

Apart from the last two winners, there were six others whom you really need to know about.

Ballylisk Triple Rose is a white mould-ripened cheese, made by Mark Rice from a single herd on the family farm in Ballylisk in Co Armagh, a gorgeous, gooey, feisty cheese.

Lough Neagh Smoked Eel is one of my all-time favourite traditional Irish foods. Fishermen have been catching eels on Lough Neagh, the largest freshwater lake in these islands, since the Bronze Age.

The Environmental Award went to The Wooded Pig. Coppa from a range of artisan charcuterie made by Eoin Bird from ethically raised, rare breed pigs reared on his family farm near Tara in Co Meath. The pigs roam freely in the woodlands in the time-honoured way though the ash, oak and beech trees snuffling up oak mast and acorns, which add immeasurably to the flavour of the charcuterie.

The Notable Contribution to Irish Food Award was won by Gabriel Flaherty of Aran Island Goats Cheese in Co Galway. Gabriel became intrigued by cheesemaking after his wife gave him a birthday present of a course but the award equally acknowledged his work as a local Irish food ambassador.

And last, but certainly not least, the Irish Drink Award went to Béal Bán from Beoir Chorcha Dhuibhne also known as West Kerry Brewery. The Brewery is based in the garden of Adrienne Heslin’s pub, Tig Bric. It was the first brewery in Kerry and the first in Ireland to be founded and managed by a woman. Still proudly independent, Adrienne brews what she calls ‘progressive, traditional’ beers.

Continue to seek out beautiful Irish artisan products to support those food heroes who enrich our lives so much.

The Wooded Pig's Coppa-Wrapped Monkfish

Head Chef Deniss Laskeno of Suesey Street, kindly shared this recipe with Darina Allen.

Servings

4

Preparation Time

 5 hours 45 mins

Cooking Time

 20 mins

Total Time

 6 hours 5 mins

Course

 Main

Cuisine

 Irish

Ingredients

• 800g (1 3/4lb) monkfish

• 100g - 120g (3 1/2 - scant 4 1/2oz) The Wooded Pig Coppa

• For the brine:

• 60g (scant 2 1/2oz) granulated sugar

• 30g (1 1/4oz) salt

• 15g (generous 1/2oz) light brown sugar

• 1 litre (1 3/4 pints) water

• 2g ground black pepper

• 1g garlic powder

• 10g (scant 1/2oz) Worcestershire sauce

• 1 fresh bay leaf

• For the morel sauce:

• 100g (3 1/2oz) fresh morels

• 10g (scant 1/2oz) butter

• 10g (scant 1/2oz) garlic, finely diced

• 10g (scant 1/2oz) shallots

• 100ml (3 1/2fl oz) Madeira

• 10g (scant 1/2oz) salt

• 2g black pepper

• 100ml (3 1/2fl oz) double cream

• For the vegetables:

• 150g (5oz) peas, blanched and refreshed

• 150g (5oz) broad beans, blanched and refreshed

• 12 baby leeks, trimmed, blanched and refreshed

• a little white wine

• 1/2 lemon

• butter

• olive oil

Method

1. To prepare the monkfish:

2. To get your monkfish ready for brining, trim the tail, hold the skin with a towel in your hand, and pull it from the flesh like you would remove your socks.

3. Place all ingredients for brine in a large pot and bring to the boil.

4. Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely.

5. Submerge monkfish in brine and leave in the fridge for 24 hours.

6. After removing monkfish from the brine, wash in ice cold water for a few minutes. Pat dry and place in the fridge to air dry for 2-5 hours.

7. Wipe down the workstation with a damp cloth to keep the surface slightly wet. This will help the cling film to stick to the table, preventing it from sliding around as you work.

8. Place a layer of cling film onto the working surface, ensuring that it covers the surface completely. Lay an even layer of coppa on top of the cling film, making sure that it is at least twice as wide as the thickness of your fillet. This will ensure that the coppa evenly covers the entire fillet.

9. Using the cling film, carefully roll the coppa and fillet into a tight roulade, being sure to squeeze out any excess air as you go. Once you have rolled it to your liking, tie off both ends tightly.

10. Steam at 63°C for 7 minutes. Once it has been cooked, place it into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process. When it has cooled, cut into four portions.

11. To make the morel sauce:

12. Start by cleaning the morels with a soft brush to remove any dirt or debris. Cut off the bottom part of the stems if they are tough and discard.

13. Heat a saucepan over medium heat and melt the butter. Add the diced garlic and shallots and sauté until softened and fragrant.

14. Deglaze the pan with Madeira and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Add the cleaned morels to the pan and stir to coat them in the sauce. Season with salt and black pepper.

15. Pour in the double cream and reduce the heat to low. Simmer the sauce for about 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it has thickened and reduced by half. Once the sauce has thickened, remove the pan from the heat and let it cool for a few minutes.

16. Transfer the morel sauce to a blender and blend until smooth. If the sauce is too thick, you can add a little water or more cream to thin to your desired consistency.

17. To prepare the vegetables:

18. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.

19. Pan fry the monkfish portions to a golden colour on a hot pan, ensuring a delightful sear on all sides.

20. Carefully transfer monkfish to an oven tray and add a drizzle of lemon, a splash of white wine, and a dollop of butter on top of each piece. Place the monkfish in the oven and cook for 7-10 minutes, depending on the size of the fish. We aim to reach a temperature of 73°C, probing the fish close to the bone to ensure the entire piece is cooked to perfection.

21. Reheat the broad beans and peas in a sizzling sauté pan over medium high heat with a touch of butter or olive oil and season them with salt.

22. We prefer to char our baby leeks over an open flame, but feel free to use your preferred method of cooking.

23. To assemble:

24. Place the morel sauce on the plate and lay the vegetables on top. Add with the coppa-wrapped monkfish and delicate, fresh microgreen leaves.

HOT TIPS

Small Chocolate Treats and Petit Fours with Rory O'Connell and Richard Healy at Ballymaloe Cookery School on Wednesday, 12th April 2023 from 2.30 – 5.30pm

Join Rory O'Connell and Richard Healy to learn how easy it is to make the most delicious chocolates and petit fours at home.

Richard, who has been teaching our students here for 5 years, will show you how to expertly temper chocolate, fill moulds, and make exquisite chocolate fillings…

Rory will share how to make a range of swanky petit fours to ensure you have the most glorious treats for your guests to enjoy with after-dinner coffee or drinks.

• For more information, see www.cookingisfun.ie

‘FOOD MATTERS’ series on RTÉ One

FOOD MATTERS is a brand new RTÉ One series on Wednesday evening at 8.30pm which uncovers Ireland's food sustainability and explores how the food system is a major contributor to the climate change emergency.

Presented by GIY (Grow it Yourself) founder Michael Kelly, this brand new six-part series sees Michael travelling throughout the country, meeting farmers, food producers, food experts, climate experts and chefs.

Award for Kinsale Mead Company

Congrats to Kate and Denis Dempsey of Kinsale Mead Company who recently won Food Academy Supplier of the Year from the Guaranteed Irish Business Awards for their range of Irish Meads.

• www.kinsalemeadco.ie

Aran Island Goat’s Cheese and Thyme Leaf Soufflé

We bake this soufflé until golden and puffy in a shallow oval dish instead of the traditional soufflé bowl; it makes a perfect lunch or supper dish.

Serves 6

Ingredients

75g (3oz) butter

40g (1 1/2 oz) flour

300ml (10fl oz) cream

300ml (10fl oz) milk

a few slices of carrot

sprig of thyme, a few parsley stalks and a little scrap of bay leaf

1 small onion, quartered

5 eggs free range organic, separated

110g (4oz) crumbled Aran Island goat’s cheese

75g (3oz) Gruyère cheese

50g (2oz) mature Coolea farmhouse cheese, grated (Parmesan – Parmigiano Reggiano or Regato may also be used)

a good pinch of salt, cayenne, freshly ground pepper and nutmeg

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

Garnish

thyme flowers if available

Method

30cm (12 inch) shallow oval dish (not a soufflé dish) or 6 individual wide soup bowls with a rim

Preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F/Gas Mark 8.

Brush the bottom and sides of the dish with melted butter.

Put the cream and milk into a saucepan, add a few slices of carrot, a quartered onion, 4 or 5 peppercorns and the fresh herbs. Bring slowly to the boil and allow to infuse for 10 minutes. Strain and discard the flavourings, (we rinse them off and throw them into the stockpot if there is one on the go.)

Melt the butter, add the flour and cook for a minute or two. Whisk in the strained cream and milk, bring to the boil and whisk until it thickens. Cool slightly. Add the egg yolks, goat’s cheese, grated Gruyère and most of the grated Coolea (or Parmesan if using.) Season with salt, freshly ground pepper, cayenne and nutmeg. Taste and correct seasoning. Whisk the egg whites stiffly and fold them gently into the mixture to make a loose consistency. Put the mixture into the prepared dish, scatter the thyme leaves on top and sprinkle with the remaining Coolea or Parmesan cheese.

Cook for 12-15 minutes, or until the sides and top are nicely puffed up and golden, the centre should still be creamy. Garnish with thyme flowers.

Serve immediately on warm plates with a good green salad.

 

Yoghurt and Cardamom Cream

If you can’t source Velvet Cloud, use the very best natural yoghurt that you can find.

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

225ml (8fl oz) milk

110g (4oz) caster sugar

200ml (7fl oz) cream

1/4 teaspoon cardamom seeds, freshly ground - you’ll need about 8-10 green cardamom pods depending on size

3 rounded teaspoons powdered gelatine

425ml (15fl oz) Velvet Cloud natural yoghurt

Garnish

fresh mint leaves

8 moulds or serving dishes

Method

Put the milk, sugar and cream into a stainless-steel saucepan with the ground cardamom, stir until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is warm to the touch. Remove from the heat and leave to sit to infuse while you dissolve the gelatine. Sponge the gelatine in a small bowl with 3 tablespoons of cold water. Put the bowl into a saucepan of simmering water until the gelatine has melted and is completely clear. Add a little of the infused milk mixture and stir well and then mix this into the rest. Beat the yoghurt lightly with a whisk until smooth and creamy, add into the cardamom mixture.

Pour into individual moulds. Allow to set for several hours, preferably overnight.

Just before serving.

Unmould a cardamom cream onto a cold plate and garnish with a sprig of fresh mint. Alternatively, serve the cardamom cream in individual bowls and garnish with mint leaves.