Darina Allen: How to make my one pot bacon, cabbage and scallion champ pie

Plus, a recipe for bacon, cabbage and scallion pie - just in time for Paddy's season!

Darina Allen in the gardens of the Ballymaloe Cookery School. Picture: Dan Linehan

Empty shelves in the vegetable and fruit section of our supermarkets in recent weeks has sent a quiver of panic through the retail trade. Shoppers are having to become accustomed to gaps on the shelves.

The shortages are caused by a variety of factors, including unpredictable weather conditions linked to climate change, soaring fuel costs, staff shortages and supply chain issues.

An unexpectedly cold snap in Spain during the past month resulted in 16 consecutive nights of below-zero temperatures. The increasing energy costs have meant that many growers delayed planting crops or actually left their greenhouses empty altogether because they simply no longer afford to grow at a loss.

It’s crunch time, there simply isn’t enough product to go around. For far too long, we have ignored the vegetable and fruit growers’ warnings that they cannot continue to grow indefinitely unless they are paid a fair price for what they produce. Already, many experienced growers who have been in business for generations have reluctantly locked their gates and are selling up.

It’s abundantly clear that our food supply system is deeply flawed and the just-in-time delivery model leaves us vulnerable to unexpected shocks. This wake-up call exposes the fragility of the modern supply chain.

Regular readers of this column will recall that I have highlighted this issue on many occasions. We urgently need a government food strategy that supports Irish farmers to produce fresh local food so we are no longer overly reliant on importing fresh products from thousands of miles away. Otherwise, we will have no Irish vegetable growers within a couple of years and then what?

Advance planning is crucial, fresh food cannot be spirited onto the shelves in a few days. It takes three to five months for many vegetables to grow from seed to shelf.

Meanwhile, at home. Let’s take back control — let’s consider growing some of our own food. It couldn’t be a better time of the year, spring is in the air, the perfect time to sow seeds.

Or perhaps, let’s go out of our way to source freshly harvested local food. We can all take matters into our own hands and make a difference by actively sourcing in local shops and farmers markets.

Hotels, restaurants, hospitals, universities around the country can also make a dramatic contribution by linking in with local farmers and food producers to commission them to grow.

Our current food system is broken and it’s time for urgent action.

On both a government and personal level, we can and must, all make a difference. Let’s make a concerted effort to eat with the seasons when local food is at peak flavour and perfection.

So, what’s in season?

It can be confusing, ask your local shop or supermarket to identify local seasonal produce on their shelves. Winter roots and greens are at their peak at present.

Bacon, Cabbage and Scallion Champ Pie

recipe by:Darina Allen

Who doesn’t love bacon and cabbage? This version is a traditional Irish meal, all in one pot.

Servings

10

Preparation Time

 30 mins

Cooking Time

 1 hours 20 mins

Total Time

 1 hours 50 mins

Course

 Main

Cuisine

 Irish

Ingredients

• 650g (1lb 6oz) bacon (collar or oyster cut, rind on) or cooked ham

• Parsley Sauce (recipe available on ieFood)

• 1 teaspoon English mustard

• 2 tablespoons cream

• 450g (1lb) Savoy or Hispi cabbage, cored and sliced across the grain

• 450g (1lb) Scallion Champ (recipe available on ieFood)

• 1 x 3 pint terracotta dish (25cm (10 inch) width x 2.5cm (1 inch) depth)

Method

1. Cover the uncooked bacon in cold water, bring to the boil uncovered. Taste, if the liquid appears very salty discard and re-cover with hot water. Bring back to the boil, cover, and cook for 40-45 minutes approximately or until the rind will peel off easily. Remove to a plate, add the chopped cabbage to the bacon water and continue to cook until the cabbage is tender, about 10-15 minutes depending on the variety. Drain well.

2. Meanwhile, make the Parsley Sauce (see recipe on ieFood).

3. Add mustard and cream. Taste and correct seasoning.

4. Make the Scallion Champ (see recipe on ieFood).

5. Remove the bacon rind, if necessary, Cut the bacon into scant 2cm (3/4 inch) chunks. Add the cooked cabbage and mix gently.

6. Bring the Parsley sauce back to the boil. Fold in the bacon and cabbage, add a little bacon cooking water if necessary. Taste, correct the seasoning.

7. Fill into one or several pie dishes.

8. Pipe a generous layer of Scallion Champ on top.

9. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4, cook for 10-15 minutes until bubbling and beginning to colour on top. Serve immediately with a little extra mustard on the side.

Cauliflower or Broccoli Salad

recipe by:Darina Allen

Cauliflower or broccoli salad is not an obvious choice, but it is surprisingly delicious. The secret as is the case with many salads is to dip the florets in a good dressing.

Servings

6

Preparation Time

 5 mins

Cooking Time

 9 mins

Total Time

 14 mins

Course

 Side

Cuisine

 European

Ingredients

• 1 small head cauliflower or broccoli

• 110ml (4fl oz) Ballymaloe French Dressing (recipe available on ieFood)

Method

1. Ideally this should be made with slightly shot heads at the end of season. Take a head with the leaves on, trim off the damaged ones. Wash and shred the remaining leaves and stalk, split the cauliflower into small florets so it will cook evenly.

2. Take a saucepan that fits the cauliflower exactly and boil 1 inch of water in it. Add a little salt, put in the shredded leaves and sit the cauliflower on top, stems down and cover closely. Control heat so that it does not boil dry. Remove from the pot when the stalks are barely tender. Divide into florets. dip each into French dressing while they are still warm and arrange like a wheel on a round plate. Build up layer upon layer to reform the cauliflower head. This looks good and tastes delicious on a cold buffet.

3. Note: Green broccoli (Calabreze) or purple/white sprouting broccoli can be cooked this way also and a mixture of all three looks and tastes wonderful.

Ballymaloe French Dressing

recipe by:Darina Allen

A quick and versatile salad dressing.

Preparation Time

 10 mins

Cooking Time

 1 mins

Total Time

 11 mins

Course

 Main

Cuisine

 French

Ingredients

• 125ml (4 1/2fl oz) extra virgin olive oil

• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

• 1 teaspoon honey

• 1 garlic clove, crushed

• 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

• Maldon sea salt and freshly ground

• black pepper

Method

1. Put all the ingredients into a small bowl or jam jar. Whisk until the dressing has emulsified. Preferably use fresh but it will keep in the fridge for a couple of days. Whisk to emulsify before using.

Rhubarb and Custard Meringue Tart

recipe by:Darina Allen

You’ll get lots of compliments for this celebration, rhubarb tart it’s even delicious without the meringue on top...

Servings

10

Preparation Time

 15 mins

Cooking Time

 1 hours 5 mins

Total Time

 1 hours 20 mins

Course

 Dessert

Cuisine

 French

Ingredients

• 300g (10oz) sweet shortcrust pastry, chilled, made from:

• 200g (7oz) white flour

• pinch of salt

• 100g (3 1/2oz) butter

• 1 egg yolk (keep white aside for meringue)

• 2-3 tablespoons cold water approx.

• Filling

• 1 kg (2 1/4lb) red rhubarb, cut into 3cm (1 1/4 inch) pieces

• 3 egg yolks

• 120g (scant 4 1/2oz) sugar

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 2 tablespoons plain flour

• Meringue

• 3 egg whites

• 175g (6oz) caster sugar

• 1 x 26cm (10 1/2 inch) tin, preferably with a pop-up base

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6.

2. First make the pastry.

3. Sieve the flour with the salt, cut the butter into cubes and rub into the flour with the fingertips. Keep everything as cool as possible; if the fat is allowed to melt the finished pastry may be tough. When the mixture looks like coarse breadcrumbs, stop.

4. Whisk the egg yolk and add the water. Take a fork or knife, (whichever you feel most comfortable with) and add just enough liquid to bring the pastry together, then discard the fork and collect it into a ball with your hands, this way you can judge more accurately if you need a few more drops of liquid. Although rather damp pastry is easier to handle and roll out, the resulting crust can be tough and may well shrink out of shape as the water evaporates in the oven. The drier and more difficult-to-handle pastry will give a crisper shorter crust.

5. Cover and chill for half an hour, if possible, this will make it less elastic and easier to roll out. Roll out the pastry and line the tin. Line with greaseproof paper and fill with baking beans. Bake ‘blind’ for 20 minutes approx. until the pastry is three-quarters cooked, remove from the oven. Remove the baking beans, brush the base with beaten egg wash and place back in the oven for another 5 minutes.

6. Slice the rhubarb and spread over the pastry base.

7. Whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, vanilla extract and flour and spread over the rhubarb. Bake in a preheated oven for 10 minutes, this will start the rhubarb cooking.

8. Meanwhile, whisk the egg whites until fluffy. As they stiffen, trickle in the caster sugar and continue to whisk until stiff.

9. Remove the tart from the oven and pipe or spread the meringue on top. Reduce the heat to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4, return to the oven. Bake for a further 25 minutes.

10. Cool on a wire rack and serve with softly whipped cream.

HOT TIPS

Fermentation Class with Penny Allen & Maria Walsh at Ballymaloe Cookery School on Monday, 20th March from 2.30 – 5.30pm

Fermentation is and has always been an important part of a healthy diet. We have lost many traditional fermented foods that would have been part of our diet. Learn how to put these foods back into your family’s diet.

In this afternoon class, Penny and Maria will show you how to make Sauerkraut, Kombucha and Water Kefir. 

You will leave with a jar of starter cultures for water kefir, kombucha scoby and your own jar of sauerkraut. Penny and Maria will demystify and remove the fear from making your fermented foods in your own kitchen at home.

For more information, see www.cookingisfun.ie

Good Food Ireland Awards - 17th April 2023

Returning for the first time since pre-Covid, the Good Food Ireland Awards will take place on Monday 17th April at The K Club, County Kildare. 

The lunch will be opened by guest of honour, Simon Coveney T.D., Minister for Enterprise, Trade and Employment, and attended by some 300 guests including business owners, Irish and international chefs, buyers, food and drink writers, media and industry leaders.

The awards are unique in their cross-sector approach and core criteria around commitment to local Irish produce. They aim to enhance linkages between agriculture and tourism and present significant opportunities for stimulating local production, retaining tourism earnings in the local area, and improving the distribution of economic benefits of tourism to the four corners of the island.

For full details on the individual awards plus tickets to the event – see www.goodfoodireland.ie