'We don't just need to survive Christmas' - Munster's oldest markets meet pandemic challenge
Brothers Paul and Pat O’Connell at K O’Connell Fishmongers at the English Market. 'If you spend €10 in the market that's €10 that’s staying local. It’s not going to England, it’s not going to Europe, it's staying in Cork, and that is so vital for any city.' Picture: Dan Linehan
The English Market has served the people of Cork in the face of famine, war, recession, fire and flood.
When the Covid-19 pandemic hit in March, famed fishmonger Pat O’Connell said there was “no question” of him and his staff sitting it out.
“We’ll work whatever way we can.”
O'Connell, who is carrying on his mother's legacy at K O'Connell Fishmongers, said the English Market has been around for more than two centuries, and it hasn't survived by staying the same.
“It’s constantly adapting, and if you didn’t change in this thing you were dead in the water.”
As it is predominantly a food market, many of the market's traders have been open through the pandemic, but have nevertheless had to change how they operate to remain viable.
Some have introduced click & collect and home delivery services for the first time, offering an alternative way to serve customers who, for various reasons, may not have been comfortable coming into the physical market.
K O’Connell fishmongers were one of the first to dip their toe into the home delivery market.
Customers can now order fresh fish via phone or e-mail with a member of the team delivering the vacuum-packed fish as far out as Ballincollig and Blarney. “It's done really well. Our customers are thrilled with it,” O'Connell said, "all they've to do is take it out of the parcel and throw it in the freezer."
Adapting to home delivery has also kept the business ticking over as other market streams such as their supply to restaurants dried up. Most importantly, it’s kept local people in work.
“We've been going to Castletownbere now for 60-odd years. That's local jobs, it’s local fishermen and local hauliers, it's a whole cycle.”
“We kept them in business and didn’t have any break in supplies which was really important in a business like ours.”
Mr O'Connell believes the pandemic served as a “big wake up call” when it comes to supporting local.
“Cork is really lucky that it's got such a thriving market. You hear English people saying ‘oh god we had this once and we left it go’ and you say, yes you did, because you supported the bigger groups and the shopping centre on the outskirts and you forgot your city centres. They're paying the price for it now because the high street in England is absolutely devastated.”
“We're managing to keep it alive in Cork and what's doing it is the local shopper coming into the city, supporting local businesses and supporting local jobs.”
“Local support is local jobs and that's the bottom line for everybody.
At Limerick's Milk Market, German baker Claudia Coleman is gearing up for the busy Christmas season. "Christmas is a big time for everybody, so we can try to make up a bit of the money lost."
Excluding the initial lockdown in March, most of the traders have continued to operate throughout the crisis. However, Ms Coleman says the pandemic has had a lasting effect on footfall.
"When we opened again, I found it was very busy for two or three weeks. And then it got very quiet and I started noticing that there were no tourists, there were just the local people coming.
"And not everybody is back yet. My regulars, there's still some missing who are terrified."
While the traders have lost out on some tourists this year, Maria Harper of Harper's Coffeehouse believes they’ve gained a number of new, local customers thanks to the message of supporting local getting through.
“People who had never ventured in before are coming in now," she said, "and customers are coming in, not just for their coffee or their veg, but to support us."
“I've actually commented to a lot of my customers that, emotionally, it is amazing what that support means to us because at times it feels like why am I doing this, it's hard, but that continuous support.. it puts a smile across your face from ear to ear."
Like O'Connell's Fishmongers, Ms Harper has also offered something new to help survive these Covid times and the coffeehouse now sells their own retail coffee bags with the phrase "bring a little bit of harpers home" emblazoned on them.
"A lot of people, I find, are doing that, they might come in, buy their coffee beans or ground coffee and go. They might not stand around or sit down with their coffee now, they bring it home."
As the market prepares to welcome more customers at its 'Christmas at the Milk Market' events, Ms Harper said she hopes that those who see what the market has to offer will keep coming back.
“We don't just need to survive for Christmas. We need to keep the market open for next year and the year after.”
But while Covid-19 has brought its challenges, Ms Harper is optimistic that Limerick's Milk Market, first established in 1852, will be around for years to come.
"If we traders can survive this - the market will thrive."
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