Forty years at the top of the restaurant game

Patrick Guilbaud, owner and founder of Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud.

When it comes to the ultimate recognition within the international restaurant sphere, the 123-year-old Michelin Guide maintains its premier position as the accepted standard of excellence. 

Even for a well-established icon of cuisine like Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, waiting for the guide’s annual inclusion can be a nervous affair. “We were delighted to retain our two Michelin stars at the 2023-2024 launch recently in London, it is always a relief,” Patrick admitted. 

Headlined by that much sought-after phrase — “worth a detour” — the guide went on to describe the Dublin restaurant: “While a large part of its success is down to the eponymous chef himself — who has certainly earned his place in Irish culinary history — it is also due to the team Patrick Guilbaud has built around him over the years, each of whom elegantly plays their part in creating an extra special experience for each and every guest.” 

Hard-earned praise for this classically sophisticated dining salon featuring a gilt barrel ceiling, original art, and the kind of hushed service that breathes ‘special occasion.’ Getting a Michelin star is one thing, adding a second and then holding on to it is a task few restaurants successfully achieve. Patrick Guilbaud won his first star in 1988, followed by a second in 1996 — and has held them both for almost a quarter of a century. 

Yet, even at age 71, this affable Frenchman is not giving up on the hope that the elusive third star might yet be added. “Of course, we will continue to try to achieve it. It would be fantastic for Dublin and Ireland, a recognition of the exceptional produce and food now found here.”

Over his forty years in business, Patrick has seen many changes — not least in the explosion of restaurants now clustering our capital city. “When I first came to Dublin in 1981, there were perhaps only 350 restaurants in the country, but today Dublin alone has over 3,000.” 

In a business where the owner’s almost permanent presence is key to the success of the enterprise, his early years were bound to a schedule beginning with produce buying at the markets shortly after dawn, then working throughout the day in the restaurant, with just a few family hours snatched in the afternoon between lunch and dinner service. 

Challenges

It hasn’t all been plain sailing over those four decades — spiralling interest rates, financial meltdowns, political upheavals, and Celtic Tiger implosions all added to the minefield that the restaurant sector has frequently had to endure. 

All of those challenges, however, paled in comparison to covid-19 and its lengthy aftereffects. “The restaurant went from being regularly full to completely empty overnight from March 17, 2020. It was a disaster, we found ourselves in a war, but with no idea of when it would end.” 

Patrick Guilbaud won his first star in 1988, followed by a second in 1996 — and has held them both for almost a quarter of a century. 

Despite the extended closure and the air of uncertainty that enveloped the economy, Patrick retained confidence of better days ahead. “We had a very good business before the pandemic hit, so I didn’t see why we would not have a good business when we reopened.”

Yet, while pandemic concerns have largely evaporated at this point, the sector continues to face substantial challenges. In his report for May, the Restaurant Association of Ireland president Paul Lenehan pointed out that “our costs are out of control, and the damage that energy prices have caused to some business means that some will never recover. The hospitality sector alone owes close to €400 million, and with that burden associated with so many restaurants we fear more closures.” 

So far, 2023 has been buoyant for Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud and looks good for the foreseeable future. “Business is good, quite steady and strong, so I can’t complain. As always in the business, we live on a month-to-month basis and know how we are doing only when the figures are added up.”

 Famous as the room where serious birthdays, golden anniversaries, and wedding celebrations are planned, the enduring goodwill of its loyal clientele elevates Guilbaud’s above the norm: “We have many regular customers, and the restaurant is busy with people who come back time and again because we give them good service, hopefully,” he says. “They come to us to celebrate something special.”

'This is a young person’s business'

In a sector notorious for its business casualties, Patrick Guilbaud plays to strengths developed and constructed carefully over forty years at the top of their game. “I love to work with young people, to teach them the trade, pass on experience and see them become successful in their careers. This is a young person’s business, and having them coming through and working hard together has helped to keep me young as well.” 

With many of the same staff in place for over a decade, keeping his core team together remains another key factor in the success of Guilbaud’s: “We respect our staff and try to make the whole thing enjoyable, a place to work but also where they can have a good time. It helps them to progress in life and helps us by being part of the great team we are so fortunate to have here.” 

While still maintaining a definite presence in the business, Patrick Guilbaud is, at 71, allowing himself more personal time to enjoy the fruits of his labours. With his son Charles well established in the management structure, the next generation of this famous institution is securely in place, ready to meet the challenges and opportunities of 2025 and beyond. 

“We have a number of partners who have been here for many years along with Charles, so the succession side of things is good. I am at an age when it is time for me to let go a little bit. When I go under, it is reassuring to know that the next generation is already in place to take over.”