Tequila suffers identity crisis

Mexico wants to copy vodka’s success by legalising flavoured tequila, but it also wants to crack down on the “quasi-tequilas” that sprang up during a shortage of the agave plants the liquor is made from, when the national drink became too expensive for many Mexicans.

It’s all part of a strange identity crisis for a drink that began as a poor man’s liquor, but went on to earn status and domain protection – and now must fight to defend its niche in the fickle world of international bar-hoppers.