Bee’s knees: Eight honey brands put to the test

THE best honey to buy is a conundrum. Unless locally produced, it’s difficult to have confidence in where exactly it comes from and this can matter.

Bee’s knees: Eight honey brands put to the test

THE best honey to buy is a conundrum. Unless locally produced, it’s difficult to have confidence in where exactly it comes from and this can matter.

Imported honey can crystallise in its barrels, which is not bad in itself, but in order to be decanted into jars, it needs to be heated which could destroy its unique micronutrients.

A dessertspoon before bedtime can eliminate Helicobacter pylori, a cause of gastric ulcers, and for sore throats and chesty coughs, mixed with fresh lemon juice and warm water (not too hot as it will kill the benefits) honey is a natural remedy. Raw (unpasteurised and unheated) honey can stimulate healing of sores and ulcers.

Certified organic honey means that surrounding hives cannot be sprayed up to 3km. Bees usually travel no more than this distance, but can. However, a lot of organic honey comes from outside Ireland.

There are not enough small local producers to meet demand. You will see many producers have ‘produce of EU and non-EU’ on their labels. This is not ideal and when I contacted some supermarkets they were not sure where their Irish packaged honey comes from.

Research is ongoing about the quality of honey coming from China. An EU 2002 ban was lifted in 2004 when reassurances were given about lead content.

Shop local is the solution.

Mary O’Riordan Pure Irish 340g €7 (€2.05/100g)

A lovely vibrancy and freshness with medium viscosity, this is a well-balanced, not oversweet, honey. Blackberry and clover are the likely source from her own garden and a few other sites where Mary keeps hives. Sold locally at filling stations in Carrigrohane and Iniscarra and Quay Co-Op, Ballincollig and Hourihan’s farm shop Waterfall, Cork. The epitome of local from flower to spoon, as sustainable as it gets.

Score: 9

Sanctoir 340g €6 (€1.74/100g)

This sanctuary honey is made by former monk Tomas Quigley who produces one of the richest of the samples coming from pollen in his orchard. A deep golden colour producing a delicious, rich honey, this is a top scorer for those who like a heavy texture.

Score: 9

Wicklow Heather Pure Irish Honey 227g €9.95 (€4.38/100g)

From hives brought to Glendalough by Eamon Magee at foraging time and back to his own apiary for the winter to care for them, this is a rare treat. Research in DCU and TCD found that there was a similar overall presence of powerful antioxidants in Irish heather honey as there is in Manuka. This is heavy, deliciously complex and interesting with savoury, herbal flavours. Available in Hopsac, Rathmines, Dublin.

Score: 9.5

Dunnes Simply Better Acacia 340g €5.99 (€1.76/100g)

Quite a savoury taste here, runny with an unusually light colour from one source in Hungary. Also unusual is how informative the label is, telling us the Robinia tree’s white flowers produce the pollen for this honey which is less sweet and cloying than other samples. Tasters liked it.

Score: 8

Boyne Valley Manuka 150g €14.99 (€9.99/100g)

Among a range of less expensive honey, tasters liked this costly Manuka version, finding it luxuriously thick, pleasant and not oversweet, but they would not pay the price. It comes all the way from New Zealand.

Score: 7

Mileeven Lavender 113g €2.19 (€1.93/100g

Packed in Co Kilkenny, there is something different about this honey, but not discernible as lavender – more generally herbal, with good weighty viscosity. Raw on the label means it hasn’t been pasteurised, heated or filtered, and so should retain its nutrients. Unblended means the pollen has been collected by the bees from one source, in this case lavender in Spain where it grows well. We bought in Tesco. Tasters approved.

Score: 8

Aldi Kilcrea Gold Organic 340g €2.69 (79c/100g)

Despite its Irish sounding name, I was unable to

ascertain from Aldi or its distributors where exactly the honey originates and if it is packed in Ireland. Colour is rich gold, the texture quite runny. The taste is sweet.

Score: 6.75

Tesco organic set 340g €3.19 (93c/100g)

Set honey has no different properties to runny honey and is handy for children – no dripping. Non-EU honey only, Tesco tells me the blends are from China and Brazil, sourced from organic agriculture by the Soil Association providing some assurance of its provenance. Toffee-like in taste, pleasant and smooth.

Score: 8.25

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