Food critics blamed for top chef's suicide

The suicide of famed chef Bernard Loiseau sent shock waves through France today and sparked condemnation from fellow culinary masters who accused the country’s all-powerful food critics of pushing him over the edge.

Loiseau, 52, was found dead in the bedroom of his home in Saulieu, near his three-star Cote d’Or restaurant in Burgundy.

A rifle was found at his side. Staff and family members said he had committed suicide.

The news sent the gastronomic world into mourning and quickly sparked debate about the merits of restaurant guides’ rating systems which chefs await each year with bated breath.

Loiseau maintained his top rating of three stars in the 2003 edition of the benchmark Michelin Red Guide. However, he lost two points, going from 19 to 17, in the 20 point rating system of the GaultMillau. That guide has gained in prestige and power in recent years.

“He said, ‘If I lose a star, I’ll kill myself,”’ said another three-star chef, Jacques Lameloise, who has a restaurant in Chagny in the Saone-et-Loire region.

Paul Bocuse, who said he spoke with Loiseau three times a week, predicted that the chef’s death would raise longer-term questions about the ratings system.

“I am sure that Bernard was very affected by the loss of these two points. We should not allow ourselves to be manipulated like that – I give you a star, I take one away,” Bocuse said. “These critics are like eunuchs: They know what to do but they can’t do it.”

He added: “The profession is going to react.”

Loiseau’s widow, Dominique, said her husband had recently been very tired and had not taken a holiday in years.

Loiseau was an innovator in the world of gastronomy, the only French chef traded on the stock exchange. The shares were suspended until further notice today.

The chef also had a line of frozen foods, three restaurants in Paris and a boutique near his Cote d’Or” restaurant.

The Bernard Loiseau company said it would go on despite Loiseau’s “sudden” death, with the various establishments shutting down only for the funeral, likely to be held Friday.