Armani drops his trousers and decides to flounce around in skirts

GIORGIO ARMANI kicked off the week of womenswear preview showings for the autumn-winter 2006-2007 in Milan, Italy, with a sexy, feminine collection which confirmed that the maestro of the androgynous look is walking a new fashion path.

“Women want to be sexy, so ... I will make them sexy,” Armani said after a much-applauded show in the theatre of his ultra-modern Milan headquarters yesterday.

The new Armani silhouette is petite and fitted with below-the-knee, hip-caressing skirts in soft fabrics, paired with dainty jackets cut close to the bodice. There wasn’t a pair of trousers in the entire collection.

The latest coat from the designer, whose name became synonymous with Milan fashion in the 1980s, has a flared hemline and a raised collar set off by a large sparkling brooch.

Armani uses the tight-fitting silhouette around the clock, adding a pouf skirt - narrow at the hips but flared at the hemline - and a jewel-encrusted inverted calyx skirt for special winter nights.

Colours stray from the non-shades of the standard Armani palette. There was fuchsia, turquoise, amethyst and garnet mixed with dashes of white, gold and platinum.

Whether a high-heeled pump or a demure flat, footwear must sparkle with diamond glitter.

“The world is changing and so is fashion,” the 71-year-old Armani said in explaining his radical style switch. But the designer, who recently traded in jeans and T-shirt for tie and jacket for his after-show curtain calls, has no intention of being left behind.

Aside from the current revamping of his signature style, Armani recently helped orchestrate the opening ceremony for the Turin Olympics and is planning a spring trip to China to open new boutiques in that ever-growing market.

Designing duo Dolce & Gabbana presented their D&G second line, aimed at the younger set.

For next year’s chilly season, it’s all about little hot pants and skating skirts knitted in white or red wool, with matching woollen caps and furry boots. The fun-loving duo recreated a winter wonderland complete with falling snow and Santa on his sleigh on the runway of their new downtown venue carved out of an old movie theatre.

During the next six days, more than 60 of the top names in Italian fashion present their ideas for next winter.