Watch: Trams, tickets and Czech beer — the Irish Examiner's travel tips for Irish fans in Prague

As thousands of Ireland fans head east for Ireland's crunch World Cup playoff, John Fallon has the best information on transport and hotels to Prague's best bars.  

So much for a spring getaway. Pack the thermals on the jaunt to Prague.

This much we were warned of on our recent reconnaissance trip to the Czechia capital.

Volatility spreads to the temperatures. By Thursday’s local 8.45pm kick off time, they are forecasted for a plummet to near zero.

“Je šílená kosa!” exclaimed our hotel receptionist. Translated into ‘It’s bloody freezing.” At least Irish fans won’t feel the bite in their pocket.

Getting to this picturesque city in central Europe was the expensive part, given the dynamic pricing afoot on the day of the playoff draw in December, but everything else is cheaper than home.

That begins on the airport transfer, once rip-off taxis are avoided.

A fixed priced fare through Uber or Bolt, from outside the terminal to downtown Prague, is typically €15. Certainly no more than €20.

If you’d prefer to hop on the shuttle bus to the local metro station, a fare of around €3 is payable at the yellow machines or onboard. No 59 is the one to catch.

ON TRACK: Trams passing in the town centre.
ON TRACK: Trams passing in the town centre.

Once inside city boundaries, a marvellous fusion of the old and new towns awaits.

Wenceslas Square exhibits a bit of both, the long boulevard stretching downhill from Prague’s main train station, with a plethora of shops and hotels facing from either side.

A five-minute walk from here will bring visitors to the heart of the original artform.

Cobbled streets line the route which culminates at the old square and the town hall with its astronomical clock.

It was a place where at the end of World War II, its underground was used as the epicentre of the Prague Uprising against Nazism.

Not all was destroyed by shelling, enabling the local populace to repair it into its beautiful current condition. A trip to the top of the tower in ‘the space elevator’ is available, offering resplendent views from upon high.

To appreciate Czechia history and culture, a wander of 10 minutes from that landmark to the Charles Bridge is essential.

the historic Town Hall and Church of Our Lady before Týn in old town square of Prague.
the historic Town Hall and Church of Our Lady before Týn in old town square of Prague.

The vast pedestrian bridge across the Vltava River is certain to be thronged by tourists from dawn until dark, all eager to capture images with a backdrop of 30 statues and sculptures of saints.

From there, the famous Prague Castle is easily accessible. This is known as the oldest inhabited castle in the world – and also the largest complex containing 70,000 m² of floor space. It was founded in around 880 by Prince Bořivoj of the Premyslid Dynasty and is free to enter.

Restaurants and pubs line the streets of old and new.

There’s too many Irish taverns to mention but the four floors of Durty Nelly’s will attract a crowd, while The Dubliner 10 minutes away has already been designated as an unofficial meeting point for Irish fans. Spacious as it is, it won’t accommodate the expected travelling legion of 6,000 supporters. The Irish expat community use the Three Fiddles as their social base.

Although the country shares Ireland’s membership of the European Union, Czechia use their own currency. The simplest calculation of the Koruna is to divide by 10 and multiply by four. For example, 40% of 400 Koruna is €16.

Czechia is renowned for its quality beer, with Pilsner Urquell, Budvar and Kozel the main go-tos.

If any of them cost more than a fiver, you’ve likely landed in a tourist trap and a short detour to a traditional watering hole is advised.

Pilsner Urquell has its own museum off Wenceslas Square, not quite on the scale of the Guinness Storehouse, but is worth a visit to consume an afternoon.

The Fortuna Arena stadium prior to a Champions League game.  Pic: Thomas Eisenhuth - UEFA/UEFA via Getty Images
The Fortuna Arena stadium prior to a Champions League game.  Pic: Thomas Eisenhuth - UEFA/UEFA via Getty Images

The match venue of Fortuna Arena is located around four kilometres from the central hub. All modes of transport are available, including a scenic walk for those minded and fit to do so. An Uber will set you back no more than a tenner, while the stadium is served by bus, train and, most popularly, tram. Watch out for numbers 22 and 6 from Národní třída or Wenceslas Square but bear in mind the small carriages will be packed from a few hours before kick-of.

Once at the stadium, home of Slavia Prague, the Irish fans will be ushered towards Gate 3.

Three main entrances will be used, hopefully avoiding the delays from Greece and Netherlands on recent trips, and the customary searches are planned.

For those arriving early to the arena, there’s a massive shopping complex across the road to kill time. A novelty of a McDonald’s branch, replete with drive-thru, is part of the stadium’s perimeter while the Slavia club shop, decked out in Castore equipment, will be open from morning time.

Local police are known to be polite but firm so tread carefully if planning any gloating in the case of a favourable outcome.

Prague has much to offer but hopefully will be added to Valetta, Belfast, Tallinn and Zenica as cities where Ireland’s major tournament ambitions took flight.

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