Postcard from Yerevan: Times are changing but car choices remain unchanged

WALK DONT TAKE TAXI: Republic of Ireland supporters and members of the Derryhirk Republic Of Ireland Soccer Supporters Club, Armagh, from left, Dessie McCann, David Tennyson, Dwyer French and Martin Campbell at Republic Square in Yerevan. Pic: Stephen McCarthy/Sportsfile

As the Yerevan streets were choked by midday traffic, our taxi driver pointed to the nearby relic of a car in admiration.

“30 years old and still driving,” he says. “Build well to last.” 

We don’t enquire as to whether his praise for the Lada is an indicator of being pro-Russia but vehicles from the Soviet era, including Volga, still populate the streets of this ancient city.

See, it was all the fault of Jennifer Lopez. Only for her concert in the Republic Stadium last Wednesday, and the damage to the pitch it caused, Ireland wouldn’t have needed to reroute for their pre-match training.

RELIC: The Yerevan streets were choked by midday traffic, our taxi driver pointed to the nearby relic of a car in admiration. Pic: John Fallon

A four-mile trip to the Armenian football federation’s academy stadium on the outskirts transpires to be a 40-minute slog from the city.

Many of Ireland’s players were familiar with the setting, a version of the FAI’s Abbotstown but with the level of superior facilities they want Government funds to construct.

Contrasting memories for Ireland’s two centre-backs; Nathan Collins made his debut in an U21 qualifier in November 2019. His partner Dara O’Shea received a red card in a match settled by Zack Elbouzedi’s goal.

The complex had also hosted, just three months earlier, Ireland’s opening Euro U19 finals game. Andrew Omobamidele featured against Norway and Joe Hodge’s equaliser nicked a point.

Hardcore Ireland fans know all about this region of the Caucuses from visits over the last 15 years to Armenia and Georgia. Seven hundred made their way east, withstanding the connecting six-hour journey in the knowledge of tropical temperatures nourished by cheap food and drink. “Every woman, every man, join the Yerevan of love,” they sang in symphony from one of the rooftop bars overlooking the main square.

June’s friendly in Luxembourg didn’t hold similar allure but this blitz of a campaign has thrown up a scenic itinerary for fans that includes Lisbon next month and concludes in Budapest in November.

On their way to the stadium today – the 15-minute walk advisable over a 30-minute cab drudge – supporters will pass through two flea markets, one being the famous Vernissage market. They sell an array of traditional Armenian crafts like hand-woven carpets, unique jewellery, wooden items - and even Soviet-era memorabilia, if one is so inclined.

During Ireland’s last trip to Yerevan three years ago, noise of street protests against the political establishment drowned out the celebrations of a famous victory for the natives.

They’ve been commonplace for generations, including the Velvet Revolution of only seven years ago, but now Donald Trump is acting as peacemaker on tensions between Armenia and Azerbaijan.

He recently held a summit in Washington, launching the Trump Route project to connect mainland Azerbaijan to its exclave of Nakhchivan, through Armenian territory. Armenian Prime Minister Nikol Pashinyan even flew though Azerbaijani airspace this week, an unprecedented step given Baku’s unofficial ban on Armenian planes using its airspace.

We live in changed times. Except when it comes to car choices of the diehards.