Serge of Adrenaline

SERGE BETSEN has a scented candle in his hand.

“When this candle melts,” he’s saying, “You don’t get wax, oil runs off instead. That oil can be used in a massage, so all the senses are involved. It’s a wonderful ambiance.”

He nods and puts the candle back carefully on a shelf before pointing up the stairs, past the manicure rooms, so up we go. And yes, it is slightly disconcerting to have one of the most aggressive flankers in world rugby extol the virtues of sandalwood and eucalyptus as soothing fragrances.

We’re in the Spa Kemana, Betsen’s health club in the heart of Biarritz. The popularity of the Cameroon-born star is clear; on the short walk from his car to the club he’s stopped twice by fans for a quick chat, while those assuming the sun salutation position in the yoga class on the top floor greet him warmly also.

He doesn’t take that popularity for granted, describing himself as reserved and shy, but that’s underselling himself. In person Betsen is relaxed and friendly, and, when we adjourn to the rooftop terrace next door for a drink, he even takes care of the tab.

We talk rugby, and those admiring Biarritz fans.

“It’s always a pleasure to talk to people who enjoy the sport and see it the same way I do. After my injury against Toulouse, I didn’t play for two months and I was touched by people’s concern — I realised as a player I had a responsibility towards them as well.

“The virtues I discovered when I discovered rugby were generosity, helping each other and sharing, and those are the virtues by which I play my game today.”

Betsen arrived in France at nine and took up rugby in Paris three years later. In 1991, aged 17, he arrived in Biarritz for the 1991-2 season — Serge Blanco’s last year with the club. He started playing for the first team in 1993-4, but Biarritz were on the way down; they played second division rugby in 1995-6 before getting back to the top flight. Now they’re on the brink of the ultimate prize in European rugby.

“The last couple of years were hugely frustrating,” says Betsen, “Losing a semi-final to Toulouse and then Paris. Now we’re finally in the final and this was set out at the beginning of the year as an objective for the team. That shows the progression of the team.”

Betsen rejects the suggestion that reaching the final is enough of an achievement in itself: “That’s other people, not the players. It’s true the supporters are delighted by what’s happening, but it’s important to separate their feelings from those of the team.

“Reaching the European Cup final is hopefully the start of a long history of championships for the club.”

Four years ago, Betsen announced himself with a master class in back row play against England, in the Stade De France, hounding Jonny Wilkinson from pillar to post. In that context it’s interesting to hear his views on playing in the ‘troisieme ligne’, as the French put it.

“Back row positions don’t exist for me in the Anglo-Saxon sense of the word — each back rower should be able to do everything, attack, defend, jump in the lineout. I admire (Keith) Gleeson because he seems to be able to do that, and that’s how I see my role with Biarritz — to tackle, to ruck, to defend, do anything that’s asked. Those are the concepts I grew up with.

“Whatever facet of the game you’re looking at — rucks, scrums, line-outs, mauls — they all have to be won and to be played fully. If any player is performing below the required level, then that’s going to be a problem for the team later.

“I was told there was no contest up front between Munster and Leinster in terms of winning the forward battle; in a game both sides must have parity up front, otherwise you won’t have a game.”

Betsen was told about the Munster game because, oddly enough, he didn’t watch it.

“(Biarritz coach) Patrice Lagisquet said that whatever happened, we’d study the game later, so we decided to wait until we were preparing for the final to draw our conclusions. Also, my wife and I have just had another baby, so away from the field I’ve got other things on my mind!”

In any event, the memory bank has plenty of entries under the Munster heading. In the 2001 quarter-final, the men in red beat the men in white and red 38-29, a game Betsen remembers almost as well as last year’s game at the same stage.

“The 2001 game in Limerick was our first experience of the European Cup quarter-final, and we played with a little fear that day, because we didn’t know quite what to expect. Denis Avril got a yellow card in the second half but we didn’t lose by too much.

“Last year was a huge game, obviously, it was our first home quarter-final; the strongest memory of the game is that we always felt we could do something, but Munster kept coming back with that wildly strong forward pack. That courage and strong mental attitude meant we never felt safe in the match.”

On Saturday week it’s likely that Biarritz will be tested mentally — and aurally — by over 40,000 Irish fans in Cardiff. Betsen acknowledges the challenge.

“There’s no doubt it’ll be very difficult playing away from home after the last two games in San Sebastian. It’s also true, however, that we have some internationals who know about playing difficult opposition in a hostile environment — Dimitri Yachvilli, Tomas Lievremont, Jerome Thion, Damien Traille, Nicolas Brusque — so hopefully they’ll use their experience to differentiate between the atmosphere of a game and the game itself.

“Discipline is going to be hugely important. The intensity will be at international levels and discipline is very important in that regard.”

Discipline is even more of an issue with a kicker like Ronan O’Gara around, but Betsen dismisses any suggestion the Munster out-half will be his responsibility alone in open play.

“When Biarritz don’t have the ball we’re going to have to go after him, but it’s not a specific role for me.

“The Biarritz defence isn’t all about me going up hard on the number ten — it’s a collective defensive effort based on communication, so it could be a prop or second row chasing Ronan O’Gara. Anyway, I’m not altogether sure I’ll be starting the game.”

Why, injury?

“No . . .”

Being modest?

“No, not modesty either. I haven’t played in every game in the tournament, and the coach doesn’t necessarily focus on Serge Betsen. There’s a group of good back row players in the club and it’s up to the coach to make his decision on the day.”

Soon, it’s time for Serge to return to the spa, but his final message for Munster is certainly administered carefully: “Good luck to them, they’re more experienced in terms of European finals than Biarritz. May the best team win.”

Then it’s a handshake and a wave as he heads back to the sandalwood and soft music of Kemana.

Don’t expect quite such a soothing ambience on the 20th.