How a Cork family of garden lovers grew a horticultural haven

Peter Dowdall explores the Annes Grove estate in Castletownroche, Co Cork

The 190-acre historic estate at Annes Grove, Castletownroche, Co Cork. features 30 acres of gardens.

Nestled in the scenic countryside of Co Cork, Annes Grove Gardens stands as a testament to natural beauty and horticultural excellence. Spread across acres of undulating land, on first entering this enchanting paradise I couldn’t help but remember the description that Annes Grove is “a take on the Robinsonian style of garden design”.

The Robinosonian style can be summed up as naturalistic planting where exotic plants are mixed with native and the garden should encourage natural development.

Along the driveway into Annes Grove is a mixture of some stunning trees, a blend of native and non-native and the ground beneath has been left to its own devices. The result is a species-rich wildflower meadow which is completely in keeping with the surrounding countryside.

The OPW has created well-maintained pathways.

Annes Grove was known as Ballyhimock when building began here in the early 17th century and it belonged to the Grove family.

HEIRESS

When the heiress Mary Grove married Francis Charles Annesley, later 1st Earl Annesley, in 1766, the estate’s name became Annes Grove and remained in the Annesley family until it was donated to the State by Jane and Patrick Grove Annesley in late 2015.

The oldest part of the gardens is the walled garden.

Annes Grove is a 190-acre historic estate with 30 acres of renowned gardens located near Castletownroche, Co Cork. The estate is situated above the River Awbeg in a landscape of woodland, river and glen reminiscent of Edmund Spenser’s epic poem ‘The Faerie Queene’, written in nearby Kilcolman Castle.

The oldest part of the gardens is the walled garden, originally laid out in the 18th century, while the woodland garden holds some of the earliest rhododendrons introduced to Ireland.

EXPEDITIONS

They found their way to North Cork when Richard Arthur Grove Annesley, who inherited the estate in 1892, became a sponsor in the early 20th century of plant-hunting expeditions in East and South-East Asia.

It was he, too, who took advantage of the limestone cliffs providing Mediterranean conditions as well as the pockets of neutral and acid soil to create an exotic, sub-tropical riverside garden amid a jungle of bamboos, gunnera, skunk cabbage and Himalayan primulas.

The Grove family's love for nature and their dedication to the estate resulted in the creation of various architectural features within the gardens.

Over the years, the Grove family transformed the estate into a horticultural haven, blending natural beauty with architectural design.

The magnificent Annes Grove House, an exquisite example of Georgian architecture, was built in the mid-18th century. The house served as the family residence and overlooked the stunning gardens that were carefully cultivated and expanded.

In the early 20th century, the estate underwent significant developments under the guidance of Richard Grove Annesley.

Richard was a passionate botanist and horticulturist who embarked on an ambitious mission to create a horticultural masterpiece at Annes Grove.

NEW STYLES

Inspired by his fellow countryman and gardener William Robinson, Richard embarked on blending a new style of gardening at Annes Grove with the added panache of exotic blooms, grown from seeds collected by the famous plant-hunter Frank Kingdon-Ward on his expeditions to Burma, China’s Yunnan province, Tibet and Bhutan.

He introduced an impressive collection of rhododendrons, magnolias, azaleas, and camellias, transforming the gardens into a riot of colours and fragrances.

The Grove family’s love for nature and their dedication to the estate resulted in the creation of various architectural features within the gardens including bridges and gazeboes which were strategically placed, adding whimsy and charm to the landscape.

FOCAL POINTS

The walled garden, with its symmetrical layout and meticulously manicured flower beds, became a focal point of admiration in the 19th and 20th centuries.

Now, in the early 21st century, the garden is awash with colour in the springtime as the rhododendrons, magnolias and spring bulbs announce the forthcoming season with all their majesty and under the new stewardship of the OPW, many new specimens have been planted.

Various features are strategically placed to add whimsy and charm to the landscape.

Head gardener Colm O’Shea will switch his attention this winter to the walled garden, where the herbaceous beds are “not showing as much colour as we would like during the summer months and so we are hoping to redesign and replant these before next year to continue the season of colour”.

Today, Annes Grove Gardens stands as a testament to the vision and passion of the Grove family, offering visitors a glimpse into the rich history and natural beauty that has been lovingly nurtured for generations.

As visitors explore the gardens, they can appreciate the legacy left behind by the Grove family, whose devotion to nature created an enduring sanctuary of tranquillity and beauty in the heart of Co Cork.

PLANT POWER

One of the highlights of Annes Grove Gardens is its exceptional collection of rhododendrons. The rhododendron collection is being added to with many new specimens planted over the last few years and in particular some beautiful large-leaved, R. macabeanum varieties which will mature into the new stars here at Annes Grove.

Another star of the gardens is the magnolia. Magnolia is renowned for its large, showy flowers and intoxicating fragrance.

Annes Grove boasts several varieties of magnolia, some of which I have not seen before in Ireland including one fantastic old lady, Magnolia macrophylla.

Meaning large-leaved, it’s an aptly named species as the leaves must be 50cm long and about 20cm wide with a beautiful pale underside. She is being held up at the moment by a horticultural walking stick, the victim obviously of some storm over the years.

There are many other magnolia specimens in Annes Grove, some of which are still unlabelled, but restoring and breathing new life into a garden such as this takes time.

As part of its ambitious programme of rediscovering and restoring the historic gardens, the OPW has been as faithful as possible in sourcing the plants that were part of the original planting by Richard Arthur Grove Annesley in the early twentieth century.

As these plants take time to propagate, the OPW team at Annes Grove looks forward to sharing the results of their ongoing addition to the garden with visitors in the years ahead.

There are now 5,500 recorded plant species growing here and due to its location and topography, the place seems to have its own microclimate.

“When we plant new areas, they seem to grow as much in 12 months as they would over 18 months elsewhere,” says Colm. Some of the stalwarts of the garden include many mature cornus varieties, ginkgos, conifers of all shapes and forms, beautiful, mature enkianthus, hoheria and parrotia and some of the newly planted species you will see in amongst them, apart from the rhododendrons and magnolias, include many new treasures, such as Grevillea victoriae, a beautiful golden-leaved catalpa which will complement an already stunning, mature green-leaved form, agapanthus and eucryphias.

BRANCH OUT

Furthermore, the woodlands of Annes Grove are adorned with ancient trees, including oak, beech, and ash, which have stood the test of time and bear witness to the rich history of the estate. Ferns and mosses add a touch of lushness and create a magical ambience as I wander through the shaded pathways.

Visiting Annes Grove Gardens is a journey of discovery and sensory delight, where visitors can immerse themselves in the captivating world of plants among the sound of birdsong and flowing water from the river below. From the vibrant rhododendrons and magnolias to the roses, herbaceous beds and trees, each plant at Annes Grove contributes to the tapestry of natural beauty, making it one of Cork’s horticultural treasures.

The Office of Public Works (OPW) has played a significant role in the preservation, restoration, and maintenance of Annes Grove Gardens. With its expertise in historical and cultural heritage sites, the OPW has worked diligently to ensure that the gardens retain their original charm and beauty while making them accessible to the public. The OPW has also worked on preserving and enhancing the various architectural structures within the gardens.

BRIDGE TO TOMORROW

A programme of restoration and conservation works will see all the bridges, pathways, steps and gazeboes repaired and restored allowing visitors to fully appreciate them once more.

The careful restoration of these structures will not only add to the overall aesthetic appeal of the gardens but will also ensure their structural integrity for generations to come.

The OPW has also been actively involved in the development of visitor amenities and infrastructure at Annes Grove.

PATHWAYS

It has created well-maintained pathways and signage, making it easier for visitors to explore and appreciate the gardens.

Colm O'Shea, head gardener, Annes Grove.

The OPW has also worked on improving accessibility, ensuring that people of all abilities can enjoy the beauty of Annes Grove.

Works on the house aim to keep the fabric of the building safe for planned restoration where it is hoped it will serve as an information centre for future visitors. Annes Grove Gardens is not simply a collection of plants and trees, it is a living testament to the passion, dedication, and vision of its founders and custodians over the years and now, of course, the OPW.

CORNERS

As you venture through the meandering paths and hidden corners of Annes Grove Gardens, allow yourself to be transported to a world where time slows down, and the wonders of nature take centre stage.

This magical place weaves together history, nature, and artistry into a rich tapestry of beauty and tranquillity. I’d also liken it to a symphony — of history, architecture, and horticulture — and I look forward to seeing how its new custodians, the OPW, develop it.