Damien Enright: Visit the first city in Canaries but watch the raindrops!

We were warned! In La Gomera, in bright sunlight, by a blue sea and white surf washing onto clean black sand, a friend warned us against La Laguna weather, writes Damien Enright. Changeable as Ireland, he said.

If we insisted on visiting the Unesco World Heritage site on Tenerife in April, we should bring thermal underwear and sou’westers. He had studied at La Laguna’s famed university; his most outstanding memory was of looking down on Santa Cruz, the island capital, basking in the sun below him while his teeth chattered and his bones ached from damp.