Skeleton Coast key to understanding beautiful Namibia

Thundering along the roads of Etosha National Game Reserve in northern Namibia in our rented camper van, we mow down plains tigers in their dozens, like it or not. 

Plains tigers, aka African monarchs, are beautiful butterflies, and I regret every one.

We must thunder, in order to glide over the corrugations in the hard-tack, biscuit-coloured road, gravel and dust on clay as hard as stone, blinding white in the sun.