Vintage view: Les Puces du Design fair in Paris

Kya deLongchamps advises to see in spring in Paris, where the visitor will be enraptured by the refreshed Musée Rodin and also by a fascinating 20th century fair groaning with mid-century treasure. 

Bruised and battered, the strong, ancient heart of Paris is still beating.

With the blossom about to softly kiss those ochre streets, I wanted to give you a few more old style, sentimental reasons to visit (in my view), the most exquisite city in the world.

First of all, (and most practically for the purposes of this column), there’s a fair that, having been established in 2010, and in Parisian terms relatively new, is growing in popularity with visitors and city dwellers alike.

Founded by Fabien Bonillo, Les Puces du Design, is a very special four-day event dedicated specifically to the years 1950 to 2000, the heady mid-century atmosphere of 100 hip retailers further infused by high-profile exhibitions.

Participating retailers are screened for inclusion, so you can expect to see mid-range and top flight collections that really speak the times.

The organisers champion new design pieces by lesser-known makers together with venerated names.

One of Auguste Rodin’s most famous sculptures, The Thinker, at the Musee Rodin, 77 rue de Varenne, Paris.

It has a genuine air of inclusiveness, with full free public access, and this year’s theme of ceramics offers plenty of scope to buy and ship, or even carry a piece of modernist wonder back to Ireland with you.

Sellers will be spread over a network of open air tenting on the street, with local galleries, shops, and restaurants in the area to keep you on your aesthetic toes and well fed.

Dates: Thursday, May 19, from 2-6pm; Friday 20, Saturday 21, and Sunday 22, May from 10am-7pm.

Place des Vins de France in Bercy village - Paris 12.

The nearest Metro is Cour Saint-Emilion or Bus lines 24, 109, and 111 (stop: Terroirs de France) or line 64 (stop: Dijon-Lachambaudie).

For everything you need to know and a full list of exhibitors go to www.pucesdudesign.com.

If your feet can stand the pace, there is of course glorious browsing in every district of the city to fill in the early hours of the morning, including coiffed brocantes, vibrant ateliers, and traditional flea markets rich with pickings for the true street rat.

If you are short of time and want to hit one area go to the heaving city of 1,700 galleries and vendors that is the Puces de Saint Ouen and includes the Marché Paul Bert (great for 20th century goods), also open over the weekend.

Return to your favourite sellers over the course of the day, as many dealing from tables will circulate the goods on offer.

Avoid the general merchandising on the side streets outside the alleys of Saint Ouen, and watch your purse.

Details: 140 Rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint Ouen, The nearest Metro is Porte de Clignancourt.

Les Puces de Montreuil also on the périphérique of the city, is more rough and ready and some would say, authentic weekend flea experience.

With an early assault and some digging, it throws up good finds from vintage to fashion at the tables and rails in the main square.

Metro: Porte de Montreuil.

Want a dose of culture right in the centre of the city? Read on. “My dear great friend, you should see this beautiful building and the room I have occupied since this morning.

Its three bay windows open expansively onto an abandoned garden, where trusting rabbits can sometimes be seen leaping through the trellises like figures in an ancient tapestry.”

Rainer Maria Rilke (poet) to Auguste Rodin, August 31, 1908.

Augustus Rodin chose the Hôtel Biron as the place he wanted to show his work and the master of physicality had his studio space there until his death in 1917.

Having stalled actual eviction from Biron by the State for five years, he gave his complete opus and copyright to the French state in 1916 with terms.

Two years after his death and after passionate wrangles in government circles, the museum opened to the public in 1919.

Last year saw the relaunch of this 18th century jewel after a €16 million restoration that set out to find a better layout and above all to capture the essence of the palace which captivated Rilke and in which Rodin was first a tenant and finally the owner.

Throwing out the white minimalism of the 1980s, it is now not only more informative and user-friendly to visit, but infused with new colour and its turn of the century romantic rhythm.

Catherine Chevilott curator of the Museum Rodin, has worked hard with her team with the goal of delivering a “warm, intimate atmosphere that would encourage the visitor’s personal encounter with the objects”.

The galleries and the garden showcase, not only Rodin’s work, including 600 new installations, but that of some of his contemporaries and pieces by his lover, Camille Claudel.

One of the 18 galleries shows Rodin’s studio as he had it when he worked there, including its original furnishings and decoration, while another presents over 1,000 fragments of ancient antiquities he used to inform his vision.

The glorious gardens studded with masterpieces are just €3.30 to enter, by the way, if you’re looking for relief on a hot afternoon with a sandwich in hand.

Musée Rodin, 77 rue de Varenne, Metro: Varenne. Full rate tickets for the museum €5.30-€11.30.

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Website for the Musée Rodin: www.muse-rodin.fr