Vintage View: Auction fever

Lucite handbag with carved clear top to a trunk style, probably made in Miami. Clear Lucite pieces are generally less expensive than a searing colour.

In the first half of the 20th century there was a fascination among scientists and manufacturers with new synthetic materials, thermo-plastics that could be poured and moulded into an infinite variety of objects drew a lot of attention. Strong, versatile plastic was seen as a wildly exciting, almost luxurious newcomer. Despite its worthy commercial beginnings, plastic was soon integrated into everything from cigarette cases to decorative Art Deco figures, clothes, radios sets, jewellery, and embellishments for couture clothing.

Lucite (or polymethyl methacrylate) was a polymer, a form of glass acrylic invented in 1931 by US chemical giant DuPont. Proven to be a stronger, more stable material than celluloid and Bakelite, it had the added interest of an icy translucence. Lucite could be compounded as clear as crystal, or coloured up to resemble slabs of semi-precious stone.

Inclusions could be stirred into the mix during manufacture, and, once set, it could also be carved and polished. Known originally for military use, for glazing the noses, and gun turrets of bomber planes during the Second World War, Lucite was an unrestricted material easier to obtain in the war years that something like leather.

It has an instant appeal and US servicemen would carve rings and brooches for their sweethearts from redundant Lucite from airplane windshields and vehicle parts.

The first civilian fashionistas to spot Lucite’s potential were US handbag makers, who started using Lucite to replace trickier, expensive materials in the early 1940s. Free to use it under DuPont’s licensing agreements, companies in New York offered unlined Lucite shell-style clutches and handbags in a variety of fabulous Hollywood stylings.

Many of the bags were left completely seethrough or lightly opaque, their contents only obscured by gilded decoration or heavily moulded relief. More expensive Lucite bags appeared coloured up as faux mother of pearl or tortoiseshell. Blessedly light, Lucite bags were soon joined by Lucite jewellery which pushed out early celluloid as the material of choice.

For bags made in New York, names to look for include Wilardy Originals (the king of Lucite purse makers), Rialto, Arnold Originals, Gilli Originals, Maxim, Shoreham, Llewelyn, and Charles Foster Originals.

The Florida-based Lucite handbag makers from the 1950s are highly celebrated for their fantasy pieces and as the material is reasonably tough, hundreds of thousands of examples survive. You can expect to find everything from coloured Lucite edged in gaudy plated metals and brass to gorgeous little laminates shot through with sparkling chips of coloured resin, ribbon, and even real flowers, shells, and confetti.

Charles S Kahn (Miami) was famous for his finishes to bags which resembled spun-silk until touched. The handles of the bag were also made in bent canes of Lucite. US Lucite bags (termed purses), have a Deco feel, as this style with its geometric Odeon flair lasted well into the late 1950s in the States.

There was no limit to the ostentation of many evening bags, encrusted with rhinestones, heavy beading, over-painting, and an extra ‘deck’ for a compact, and lipstick elegantly engineered into their chassis. Witty themes including beehives, hatboxes, barrels, and lanterns were popular.

Lucite found its way into top flight furnishings from Orlando to California in tables, grand pianos, stair spindles, and more. Robust enough to serve as a heel on a high shoe, Lucite could be carved up like fine crystal to flash on the red carpet or dancefloor.

The easiest source for affordable Lucite bags is eBay, the US part of the site where you can see a variety of pieces from established dealers. Ensure the bag is undamaged with no missing parts as Lucite cannot be restore once warped, broken, or crazed. In good condition, they are perfectly usable in reasonable sizes, although larger casket types really do read as travelling trunks. A lovely Lucite bag would be a gorgeous addition to a vintage-themed wedding ensemble.

Where labels are not present, look for stamps on the metal hinges or compare to images online. Often, the style of the bag or design of the clasp will make it distinct to one or other fashion house. Prices start around €35 for a small ethereal clutch in perfect order from the ’50s or ’60s. Rare, desirable bags include the colour red and any punchy bright shade.

For more on the history and collecting of Lucite bags order Janice Berkson and Dianne Dubler’s book: Carry Me, 1950s Lucite Purses. An American Fashion (2009) Antiques Collectors Club.